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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
As just static displays that would be entered into a model show or placed on display in a museum, HL tanks would not be my first choice. They are what the are a TOY base to build off of to ones level of want. MANY folks build them up into quite outstanding looking and running models. It takes a lot of work which I have no interest or time for and my hat goes off to these folks for their dedication to the historical art side of this hobby.
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Originally posted by dai phan View Post
Since the outline is questionable ( no amount of PE parts, detailing can correct it) , saying they are good enough for static display is quite a huge fantasy? Dai
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View PostThey range from poor to fair in most aspects, but this gives them just enough to look decent to 95% of their target market which is not modelers, but younger “RTR” RC users. They are nowhere near Tamiya levels in accuracy, but then even Tamiya is not overly accurate on some of their 1/16 tanks.
Being fair in accuracy makes the HL tanks relatively easy to bring up to “good” levels with the right aftermarket parts, paint and a bit of “hobby’n skill”.
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Originally posted by dai phan View PostAnyone knows how accurate the HL molds are? Dai
Being fair in accuracy makes the HL tanks relatively easy to bring up to “good” levels with the right aftermarket parts, paint and a bit of “hobby’n skill”.
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Great looking Sherman SoCalBob.
Finished, we are never really finished , the re-paint of the plastic tracks.
What color was the question. There are many great pics in this thread to choose from.
I decided on medium dark grayish over the brown-rust combo I originally tried.
The german ww2 tanks used a steel & manganese alloy. Manganese is a natural medium-dark gray, it would take a long time for them to "rust", When manganese ages it actually gets darker gray before the usual rust color. Besides, how many really lasted that long on either front to rust ?
If the ground around here was not so hard from the lack of rain, I would pick up the natural dirt color from driving it around.
2 Photos
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Thanks guys! I really enjoy taking a basic toy-looking tank and seeing what can be done. HL molds, whether they are super accurate or not, are so tank-y! Wish there were more....
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
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This was a requested build for a “Cold War” era Middle East desert themed T34-85.
It is a Pro Edition with all metal running gear and barrel recoil. The airsoft feature is disabled but barrel recoil was retained and its timing was adjust to match the cannon flash and sound. I also upgraded to a high output IR bulb and LegoDEI 360 IR receiver for increased IR battling lethality. Motors have been changed to Taigen black 380s. These are smoother running with slightly more torque then the stock HL motors.
Fun fast and easy build. Shown below parked next to a typical green T34-85. I made a short video of the two T34s playing follow the leader on my Instagram @ fsttanks. Feel free to take a look.
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My customized M4 Sherman. I mistakenly bought a "snow" Sherman, painted white. Not an issue, since I'd planned to repaint it anyway. The decals are Archer Fine Transfers, a product I highly recommend. I just installed the long barrel. Toucan sells it as the "Fury" barrel, but I wouldn't be surprised that it is the Panther G barrel. Looks long enough! I'm still working on the finish, wondering whether I should airbrush a dirt/dust layer on the undercarriage.
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Originally posted by Sureshot View PostRdex2,
I like the light on the top of your Abrams.
Is it used on the real ones also?
Steve
https://www.armyrecognition.com/unit..._11610155.html
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