Originally posted by Alpha
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Customization Build Log and Tutorial: Heng Long King Tiger
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You put down the red oxide primer on a German tank let that fully cure, spray hairspray over it, it only takes a couple seconds to dry, then immediately spray on your base coat (acrylic), and let that cure for a few minutes get a toothgrush, wet it a bit and brush over the surface where you want to chip the paint, you can scratch with a toothpick as well to get say a gouge mark or more control to scrape paint off a specific detail. , how long you let the base coat of paint cure dictates how big the chips are and how hard youll have to work to get your chips, longer dry time up to about 15-20 minutes will net smaller chips that take more work to achieve doing it within a few minutes results in large flakes of paint coming off. , How it does this is the hairspray is also water soluble, but much more so than the acrylic paint, so once you scratch through the layer of paint the water wicks under the paint, spreading along the hairspray lifting it slightly and allowing it to be scratched or brushed away. after about the 20-25 minute mark, the acrylic is pretty much cured to the point were its almost impossible to scratch through and chip. It is important to use dissimilar paint/ and primer here because if you use both an acrylic primer and paint you risk reactivating the primer wet scrubbing like you do with this technique lacquer/enamels stick better to the henglong tanks for your prime coat anyway. Night Shift, the guy that did those 2 YT videos posted earlier is the freaking rust MAN, Ive spent evenings just watching his tutorials. The ones doing flame torch scoring on plates and epoxy putty welds, and texturing with Mr Surfacer are avbsolutely just brilliant
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Originally posted by Vaseline View PostYou put down the red oxide primer on a German tank let that fully cure, spray hairspray over it, it only takes a couple seconds to dry, then immediately spray on your base coat (acrylic), and let that cure for a few minutes get a toothgrush, wet it a bit and brush over the surface where you want to chip the paint, you can scratch with a toothpick as well to get say a gouge mark or more control to scrape paint off a specific detail. , how long you let the base coat of paint cure dictates how big the chips are and how hard youll have to work to get your chips, longer dry time up to about 15-20 minutes will net smaller chips that take more work to achieve doing it within a few minutes results in large flakes of paint coming off. , How it does this is the hairspray is also water soluble, but much more so than the acrylic paint, so once you scratch through the layer of paint the water wicks under the paint, spreading along the hairspray lifting it slightly and allowing it to be scratched or brushed away. after about the 20-25 minute mark, the acrylic is pretty much cured to the point were its almost impossible to scratch through and chip. It is important to use dissimilar paint/ and primer here because if you use both an acrylic primer and paint you risk reactivating the primer wet scrubbing like you do with this technique lacquer/enamels stick better to the henglong tanks for your prime coat anyway. Night Shift, the guy that did those 2 YT videos posted earlier is the freaking rust MAN, Ive spent evenings just watching his tutorials. The ones doing flame torch scoring on plates and epoxy putty welds, and texturing with Mr Surfacer are avbsolutely just brilliant
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I blatantly copied Alpha's technique on my King Tiger. In my case I used Tamiya TS spraycans over the hairspray on the metal wheels. It still works, but the spray paint is much harder to chip away. So yeah, it's best to use a thin layer of acrylic through an airbrush. It's fun to do though, and looks better than painted on chipping.
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Originally posted by UltraVargen View PostI blatantly copied Alpha's technique on my King Tiger. In my case I used Tamiya TS spraycans over the hairspray on the metal wheels. It still works, but the spray paint is much harder to chip away. So yeah, it's best to use a thin layer of acrylic through an airbrush. It's fun to do though, and looks better than painted on chipping.
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Originally posted by Alpha View PostSTEP 2: Motor Upgrade
I like that Heng Long’s 2020 era tanks include steel gears for all editions except the most basic edition. Motion RC is only carrying editions with steel gears. For the general tanker, I think the stock motors and gears are more than adequate. I try not to dump too much money into my RC machines unless/until I need to. In this King Tiger’s case, I made an exception and opted to install red motors. This is a simple “upgrade” that bolts right in with zero modification to the tank. It takes about five minutes to do:
1) Unscrew the stock motor gearboxes and unplug them
2) Remove the hex screw holding the sprocket to the shaft
3) Wiggle the sprocket off the shaft. This makes swapping easy because you don’t need to separate the tracks.
4) Reverse the process to install the new gearboxes
I also installed a servo driven recoil and elevation unit. More on this later… Subscribe to this thread for future updates!
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Originally posted by phalanx View Post
Well, I'm working with a later edition and trying to figure out how feasible it would be to put more powerful motors on my upgrade edition Tiger II on Edition 7.0. But when I look at the gearbox and compare the two it has these "covers" that block access. Do you know of a way to disassemble one of these?
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Originally posted by Alpha View PostSTEP 2: Motor Upgrade
I like that Heng Long’s 2020 era tanks include steel gears for all editions except the most basic edition. Motion RC is only carrying editions with steel gears. For the general tanker, I think the stock motors and gears are more than adequate. I try not to dump too much money into my RC machines unless/until I need to. In this King Tiger’s case, I made an exception and opted to install red motors. This is a simple “upgrade” that bolts right in with zero modification to the tank. It takes about five minutes to do:
1) Unscrew the stock motor gearboxes and unplug them
2) Remove the hex screw holding the sprocket to the shaft
3) Wiggle the sprocket off the shaft. This makes swapping easy because you don’t need to separate the tracks.
4) Reverse the process to install the new gearboxes
I also installed a servo driven recoil and elevation unit. More on this later… Subscribe to this thread for future updates!
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FANTASTIC!!! You have given me a lot of help. I have the Taigen version and want to improve the detail. Question. Are the red motors a better proportional speed? While the original motors are fine, I seem to lack the touch to not haul a$$. My HL Sherman and Tiger one have stock mottors and really look the speed of a tank. Subscribed. Again, great work sir!
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Originally posted by 761st View PostFANTASTIC!!! You have given me a lot of help. I have the Taigen version and want to improve the detail. Question. Are the red motors a better proportional speed? While the original motors are fine, I seem to lack the touch to not haul a$$. My HL Sherman and Tiger one have stock mottors and really look the speed of a tank. Subscribed. Again, great work sir!
Red motors can take higher current, but I'll let others address that.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by 761st View PostFANTASTIC!!! You have given me a lot of help. I have the Taigen version and want to improve the detail. Question. Are the red motors a better proportional speed? While the original motors are fine, I seem to lack the touch to not haul a$$. My HL Sherman and Tiger one have stock mottors and really look the speed of a tank. Subscribed. Again, great work sir!
The 6.0-7.0 system are rated up to 12.6v. In low power/gear mode the system limits the max voltage output to 7.2v regardless of battery. In high power/gear mode the system can use up the 12.6v. But much past 9.6v and thing can start to get hot (usually when a 11.1 Lipo is being used=12v+ at peak output) so you must remember to use max power sparingly.
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