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Have you looked at the operation manual? If so and still have a question ask your operating questions here....

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  • Have you looked at the operation manual? If so and still have a question ask your operating questions here....

    Guys please read the manual. I get it guys don't read manuals, but in some cases it does answer your question rather quickly.

    If you have basic questions about operating your tank please ask them here and lets keep the other threads on their related topics.

  • #2
    Thanks for making this thread, Rubicon99. Over time we'll migrate some of the key questions to the a "Frequently Asked Questions - FAQ" thread and Sticky it at the top of this forum.


    There are multiple threads going so I'll put this link in both. RC tanks, trucks, cars, etc in this category include RTR (Ready to Run) batteries. I've had good experience with them, probably because I don't run them into the ground. That being said, we also recognize that part of the fun with RC Surface vehicles is upgrading and hop-ups above the stock factory equipment, so we also brought in a new 2s 7.4V Li-Ion battery using imported Sanyo NCR 18650 cells from Japan. These will fit in *ALL* Heng Long tanks (they're essentially the same dimension as the case-less 18650 battery in the T-90 and T-72).

    Compared to the stock battery, the upgrade battery not only nearly doubles the capacity (3500mAh vs 1800mAh), but they're also made of higher quality NCR cells from Japan.

    These are in stock now and ready to ship. We'll get a photo up soon!

    https://www.motionrc.com/products/ad...756ae0d1&_ss=r



    Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

    Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

    Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

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    • #3
      Two questions - is there a service or repair manual for the Challenger II? Second, at first not having read ops manual I put a couple of BBs down what I now believe is a vent hole in the turret instead of just dropping them in. If the tank will soon self-destruct what should I do now? Everything seem OK but I don't know where those BBs went.....

      Comment


      • #4
        JeffTbolt Welcome to Hobby Squawk!

        Which "vent hole" did you put the BBs into, exactly? If they didn't go into the loading chamber, they'll just fall eventually into the tank somewhere.

        Tanks are easy to service. You'll just need to put one drop into the smoker tube every hour or so, so it doesn't dry out and burn itself out.

        Post in the Challenger II thread, and I'll have one of our Challenger II owners post how to unscrew the screws under the hull to separate the lower hull and upper hull so you can see what's inside the tank. They're very straightforward.



        Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

        Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

        Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Alpha View Post
          JeffTbolt Welcome to Hobby Squawk!

          Which "vent hole" did you put the BBs into, exactly? If they didn't go into the loading chamber, they'll just fall eventually into the tank somewhere.

          Tanks are easy to service. You'll just need to put one drop into the smoker tube every hour or so, so it doesn't dry out and burn itself out.

          Post in the Challenger II thread, and I'll have one of our Challenger II owners post how to unscrew the screws under the hull to separate the lower hull and upper hull so you can see what's inside the tank. They're very straightforward.


          Under the hatch where the BBs get loaded there is a small hole in the center - that's where I put a couple BBs. After that I just let them fall into the larger opening in the front of that hatch area. Thanks!

          Comment


          • #6

            I read that the "steering rate" can be changed.. I wonder if they mean changing the running speed, which sort adjust the steering rate. Maybe they mean because both turret and tank steer are proportional.

            I also read that the lights can be turned on/off.
            My assumption was this was via the transmitter. Do they mean when you hit the startup button or when you power up the tank?

            Can anyone clarify?

            I beleive this was on the product page for the Leopard and Abrams professional, both of which I have. Reading the manual there is no mention of this, even when accounting for the unclear english.

            Comment


            • #7
              The construction manual calls for '2 ml' of smoke fluid when low, or when little smoke is produced after running a hour or so. Is this too much fluid to add ? I've heard everything from 2 drops to 10 drops. The instructions say 2ml. That seems like a 'lot' of fluid !

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JCB 67 View Post
                The construction manual calls for '2 ml' of smoke fluid when low, or when little smoke is produced after running a hour or so. Is this too much fluid to add ? I've heard everything from 2 drops to 10 drops. The instructions say 2ml. That seems like a 'lot' of fluid !
                Two drops max is all I have ever used.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by barron06 View Post
                  I read that the "steering rate" can be changed.. I wonder if they mean changing the running speed, which sort adjust the steering rate. Maybe they mean because both turret and tank steer are proportional.

                  I also read that the lights can be turned on/off.
                  My assumption was this was via the transmitter. Do they mean when you hit the startup button or when you power up the tank?

                  Can anyone clarify?

                  I beleive this was on the product page for the Leopard and Abrams professional, both of which I have. Reading the manual there is no mention of this, even when accounting for the unclear english.
                  The earlier tanks with front and rear lights could be operated on/off while holding the 'G/function' button and pushing the 'left stick' 'forward' for front lights or pull back for rear lights. The new tanks are both front and rear on/off, left stick forward. If you pull back on the left stick while holding the 'G' function button, it goes into another mode with forward and reverse on the left stick. Tracking/trim (running left or right; forward or reverse) can be done while pushing the 'G/function' button and moving the 'lef't stick right or left (for reverse tracking) or the 'right' stick left or right (for forward tracking). It's in the manual. The light/mode instructions were on a separate piece of paper added later in some models. If you set something you don't like, just do the same stick and button (G) operation to return to the original set-up. Low or high speed mode can be set while pushing the G button and moving the right stick forward or backward. Hope this helps.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks for the answer.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Is there a write up somewhere how to upgrade a tk-5.3 tank (Abrams in my case) to the new 6.0x standard? Much of the wiring , and many of the connectors, are different. Is it even reasonable to upgrade rather than just getting a new one? My 5.3 M-1a2 doesn't have an adjustable idler and the plastic wheels are a little wobbly. I have a spare 6.0 board I can use however.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi Davy,
                        I haven't done a write-up yet, and haven't seen anyone else do one either. I have done a Tk5.3 conversion to TK6 myself, so I know what it entails. In a word, it's "Tedious", but not impossible. You're right, most of the connectors are different, including the motor connector. Also, with your spare TK6 board, do you have the matching TK6 radio and TK6 IR apple? If not, you won't be able to take full advantage of the system. If you have a TK6 board, TK6 radio, and TK6 IR apple, and don't mind soldering new connectors to just about everything (LED wires excluded), then perhaps I can find time to write a guide to help you match wire to wire. But other than that, candidly if it were me I'd get the TK6 Abrams out of the box because of the other improvements made to the hull and running gear.

                        Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

                        Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

                        Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Davy101 View Post
                          Is there a write up somewhere how to upgrade a tk-5.3 tank (Abrams in my case) to the new 6.0x standard? Much of the wiring , and many of the connectors, are different. Is it even reasonable to upgrade rather than just getting a new one? My 5.3 M-1a2 doesn't have an adjustable idler and the plastic wheels are a little wobbly. I have a spare 6.0 board I can use however.
                          Honestly you are better off just getting a new 6.0 Abrams. Along with the new 6.0 system you also get the adjustable idler/track tensioning feature which makes a huge difference in reliability. Also the plastic wheels don’t wobble as much do in part to the metal suspension arms. If it is in your budget go straight to the all metal road wheel upgraded option. You will see a huge difference in a new 6.0 Abrams compared to your older 5.3.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks Alpha, Rubicon99. I do have the radio for the board but see the practicality of just stepping up to the new version.

                            As an aside, the 5.3 board burned out the frets that control the motors by driving in sand.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I am having a bit of trouble using my (dynamite) brand, (Passport Ultra) model charger, to charge the OEM included batts AND, the recently purchased Admiral 7.4v Li-Ion batts, for my L 2A6 and T90 tanks. I made certain that chgr. was set to Li-Ion and correct volts 7.4v, correct mAh, etc., etc. I always get a "low volts" rejection. It will not even begin to charge or cycle. I just now tried to use the (oh soooo slow) included OEM wall charger to bring the brand new/yet unused Admirals up and got a green light/full charge indication. However, when I check the batt. with my HiTECH brand, LiPo Checker, "Voltage Checker & Equalizer"...it reads only 10% in the batt. icon and only 3.70 & 3.66 volts in the two separate cells. Is this "Li-Po checker" unseat. for checking Li-Ion?
                              Until I bought these tanks, I have never used Li-Ion...only Li-Pos' in my planes. These are my first try at 'tanking' & Li-Ion batts. I sure hope I am NOT handcuffed to the OEM wall charger that came with the RTR Tanks....and that I don't end up ruining my new and expensive Admiral 3500/7.4v batts. At near $25.00 bucks each, x 3 of them...my investment in an alternate power source is substantial.
                              I don't even know how long I should run these tanks (according to a timer) before shut down & recharge...? The admirals came out of box with 4% 3.52/3.52v, which I would guess is correct long term storage readings?
                              Yup...newbie tanker here with a need to know...everything. Retired A&P/AMT and Sport Pilot....am VERY 'type A' when it comes to ops by the numbers and maint. of ANY kind....
                              This is driving me nuts! I don't know what I don't know.
                              HELP....thx in advance.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                I had to replace my main board in my Sherman and I thought I installed everything as it should be but now just the forward and backward are reversed. I scoured all the manuals looking to see if you can reverse the right stick function and it seems someone pointed this out at one time but I'm at a loss. Did I just connect the MFU motor wires to the wrong motor M1 vs M2? I have the right (top) motor as M1. It steers correctly left and right just forward and backward on reversed.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Originally posted by Beeg View Post
                                  I had to replace my main board in my Sherman and I thought I installed everything as it should be but now just the forward and backward are reversed. I scoured all the manuals looking to see if you can reverse the left stick function and it seems someone pointed this out at one time but I'm at a loss. Did I just connect the MFU motor wires to the wrong motor M1 vs M2? I have the right (top) motor as M1. It steers correctly left and right just forward and backward on reversed.
                                  Stock or upgrades motors? Try swapping around the red and black wires to each motor.

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                                    Stock or upgrades motors? Try swapping around the red and black wires to each motor.
                                    Stock motors. I'll try swapping positive and negative and hopefully won't mess up left and right turning..

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Swapped the positive and negative wires and forward and reverse was correct but turning was backwards. So, returned wires to correct positive and negative but switched leads between motors and discovered for stock Sherman setup M1 is the left (bottom) motor and M2 is the right (top) motor. Will make notes in my Heng Long cheat sheet..

                                      Click image for larger version  Name:	HL_TK6_61_MotorWires.jpg Views:	0 Size:	100.5 KB ID:	252671

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                                      • #20
                                        I have both Tiger tanks, 1 & 2. Whilst fitting them out I happily attached the sprung wire aerial to the metal base pin at the back of the tanks. I thought these were aerials for the RX but when I happened to open up both of the Tigers I found there was nothing at all attached below the aerial base pin. So, what, if anything, are those metal aerials for? Do I need them?

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