Have you looked at the operation manual? If so and still have a question ask your operating questions here....

[Beeg]

Tigerfeet They are just an accessory. Not required.. There is a custom guy that makes scale looking aerials that look way better but he's out of stock. At least for the US versions.

Aber makes scale antennas.

http://www.aber.net.pl/detal,777.html

[Tigerfeet]

Tigerfeet They are just an accessory. Not required.. There is a custom guy that makes scale looking aerials that look way better but he's out of stock. At least for the US versions.

Aber makes scale antennas.

http://www.aber.net.pl/detal,777.html

Okay, thought as much. Thanks for the link!

[Rubicon99]

Bump

[Dutchy93]

Can somebody please explain the various functions of the V, S, G, and K keys on the transmitter? Their secondary functions are not explained in the manual at all.

For ex. I found out myself that you can change the running speed of the tank with G+ rightstick up/down.
somewhere is mentioned that you can change more functions like recoil.

Can someone shed light on this?

[Beeg]

Can somebody please explain the various functions of the V, S, G, and K keys on the transmitter? Their secondary functions are not explained in the manual at all.

For ex. I found out myself that you can change the running speed of the tank with G+ rightstick up/down.
somewhere is mentioned that you can change more functions like recoil.

Can someone shed light on this?

Bottom of Page 8 in the HL.TK-6.0/6,1 manual.

[Beeg]

Can somebody please explain the various functions of the V, S, G, and K keys on the transmitter? Their secondary functions are not explained in the manual at all.

For ex. I found out myself that you can change the running speed of the tank with G+ rightstick up/down.
somewhere is mentioned that you can change more functions like recoil.

Can someone shed light on this?

Here is the page with the Chinese text edited out for easier reading.

[Dutchy93]

Here is the page with the Chinese text edited out for easier reading.

Ah, I must have been given the wrong manual for my tank, or an older version, as this page wasn't in my manual.
Thanks for sharing Beeg!

[SoCalBobS]

So I’m reading the one-sheet 6.0 Transmitter Operating Instruction included with my Abrams. At one point it says “Button G + Control Stick 2 (right side)” up & down changes the mode from 7.4V to 12.6V. Not sure what they mean by that?

[Rubicon99]

So I’m reading the one-sheet 6.0 Transmitter Operating Instruction included with my Abrams. At one point it says “Button G + Control Stick 2 (right side)” up & down changes the mode from 7.4V to 12.6V. Not sure what they mean by that?

I think it’s one of those lost in translation things. It is simply a speed setting. Low power “down stick” for slow easy driving and High power “up stick” for faster speeds or higher toque needs. It comes in handy with heavier tanks that need more torque for turns and climbing or modern tanks for higher speeds.

Low power = maximum of 7.4v output to motors
High power = 7.4v up to 12.6v output to motors depending on maximum battery voltage.

**A word of caution here that even though the 6.0 can handle a battery delivering 12.6v it tends to get HOT REALLY FAST. If you overdo the heat it will fry the 6.0 MFU rather quickly.

[Beeg]

On #16 it says "Switchable Double Current System" (Prepare for subsequent upgrading)

I'm assuming this has to do with the 6.1 MFU?

[Beeg]

Alpha Can you shed light on this?

On #16 it says "Switchable Double Current System" (Prepare for subsequent upgrading)

I'm assuming this has to do with the 6.1 MFU?

[JeffTbolt]

Machine Gun/ Cannon sound and recoil stopped working. Batteries are charged and new in the controller. Start up, engine and turret sounds are normal and can be adjusted with the controller. Tank recoil can also be adjusted but doesn't function. Could this be a problem with the controller buttons A & B? Heng Long Challenger II Professional edition. Any suggestions?

[Rubicon99]

Machine Gun/ Cannon sound and recoil stopped working. Batteries are charged and new in the controller. Start up, engine and turret sounds are normal and can be adjusted with the controller. Tank recoil can also be adjusted but doesn't function. Could this be a problem with the controller buttons A & B? Heng Long Challenger II Professional edition. Any suggestions?

Open the tank up and check to make sure no wires have been pulled loose or out of the 6.0 MFU system. Though not common it can happen.

If that is not it then you have another issue.

[JeffTbolt]

I have another issue - no loose wires inside the tank.

[GregH]

Greetings fellow tankers, newbie tanker here and looking forward to your words of wisdom..
Would anyone be so kind as to point me in the correct direction on how to remove the tracks on the Panther G plastic tracks.
The left track was not mounted correctly from the factory -didn't notice it immediately. A " duh" on my part .

[Beeg]

Greetings fellow tankers, newbie tanker here and looking forward to your words of wisdom..
Would anyone be so kind as to point me in the correct direction on how to remove the tracks on the Panther G plastic tracks.
The left track was not mounted correctly from the factory -didn't notice it immediately. A " duh" on my part .

First off welcome to the forum!

I don't have a PantherG but like most Heng Long tanks the tracks can be easily removed by removing either the Idler or Drive wheels. The picture below shows both wheels and to me it looks like removing the forward drive wheel sprocket would be the easiest. Just insert a hex wrench into the center of the wheel (probably2.5mm) . If I'm mistaken maybe someone with a PantherG will correct me.

[SoCalBobS]

Yeah, that's how I do mine.

[GregH]

Beeg & SoCalBobS thank you for the info. The manual does not mention track removal, however i found a utube vid from Taigen tanks which showed the use of a push-pin and small hammer to tap out the track pins.
This technique works, was able to reset the track on the sprocket wheel and idler wheel. I will try the sprocket wheel technique next if needed.
Thanks again.

[SoCalBobS]

Absolutely no reason to knock out track pins to remove the tracks. It's good to know how though, in case you need to shorten or lengthen the tracks. You'll probably already found out, but one end of the track pin is knurled to hold it in. If the pin is hard to tap out in one direction, try the other. Once the knurl is out, the pin just slides out. Have fun! We learn by doing, or said otherwise, "ask me how I know".

[GregH]

It actually looks like the track pin has a very slight taper plus a knurl. Just keep the proper orientation to reinsert the pin.