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Discussion of Heng Longs 1/16th RTR Abrams Pro Edition

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  • #21
    I bought one of the Professional Abrams for my son. Of course, after it arrived, I felt the need to have my own! Grabbed one just before they went out of stock! This makes 4 tanks for me now - Thanks to MotionRC for bringing these to us!

    Bob

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    • #22
      So I have now upgraded to the red motors, added the drive shaft bearings, Tamiya tracks and the 360 turret mod. All works great! When the new IR sensors for the HL 6.0 are available I will grab some of those too. Now for some weathering and to work on a special mod of my own. Hey, it's what I enjoy doing.

      Rubicon99, you had mentioned wheel springs in another thread. What is involved in that?

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      • #23
        what kind of clear can you put over the paint when the decals are done. Click image for larger version

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        • #24
          I use Testor's Dullcote.

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          • #25
            I use Testor's Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear. Rust-Oleum makes a nice 2x Clear Matte spray paint as well, although it can get a bit thick so shake often and spray in a moving arc.
            Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

            Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

            Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

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            • #26
              Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
              So I have now upgraded to the red motors, added the drive shaft bearings, Tamiya tracks and the 360 turret mod. All works great! When the new IR sensors for the HL 6.0 are available I will grab some of those too. Now for some weathering and to work on a special mod of my own. Hey, it's what I enjoy doing.

              Rubicon99, you had mentioned wheel springs in another thread. What is involved in that?
              To set the spring rates you have to first remove the suspension arm. The spring is behind the arm and there are two small wholes in the hull under the spring where it locks into the hull. One is for the soft setting/ lightweight tank the other if for stiff setting/heavy tank. With the Abrams built up such as yours set the #1 #6 #7 (counted front to back) springs sets (both sides of tank) to the heavy setting. #6 & #7 will push up on the rear of the tank to counter the higher downward torque being placed of the tracks/sprockets that pull the rear of the tank down when starting to move forward and will also add more force along with #1 to the forward track section to assist the idler wheels with keeping the tracks tight and from slipping off the idlers when reversing aggressively.

              Tip: To make this easier remove all the road wheels first. You will see why as you work through setting the springs.

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              • #27
                Well dang! I busted the left side #1 suspension arm trying to get the wheel off... can it be repaired or does it have to be replaced?

                Click image for larger version

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                • #28
                  Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post
                  Well dang! I busted the left side #1 suspension arm trying to get the wheel off... can it be repaired or does it have to be replaced?

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                  I wil PM you later with a simple way to fix it so don’t worry. I have broken arms (axles) off before, fixed them and they are still being used hard today.

                  If a wheel does not want to come off first remove the suspension arm from the hull. Then tap the arm out from the wheel end with a punch. They can be tight when new but I have never seen one break off while removing a wheel. Just keep moving forward with your spring adjustments.

                  Once repaired move that arm to the #3 or #4 position and all will be fine.

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                  • #29
                    Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                    I wil PM you later with a simple way to fix it so don’t worry. I have broken arms (axles) off before, fixed them and they are still being used hard today.

                    If a wheel does not want to come off first remove the suspension arm from the hull. Then tap the arm out from the wheel end with a punch. They can be tight when new but I have never seen one break off while removing a wheel. Just keep moving forward with your spring adjustments.

                    Once repaired move that arm to the #3 or #4 position and all will be fine.
                    I have an idea but will wait to hear from you before doing anything. Thank you.

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                    • #30
                      Originally posted by RCjetdude View Post

                      I have an idea but will wait to hear from you before doing anything. Thank you.
                      PM sent I hope it helps....

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                      • #31
                        Originally posted by Alpha View Post
                        I use Testor's Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear. Rust-Oleum makes a nice 2x Clear Matte spray paint as well, although it can get a bit thick so shake often and spray in a moving arc.
                        You can out the can in warm water half way up for 15minutes worked well when I used to paint rc car bodys.

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