New "compatible" Heng Long 6.0 IR receiver test results

[DavidN]

Rubicon99/DavidN,

I know the example shows the IR RX connected to CN16 on a 6.0, I have a 7.0 which shouldn't matter right? Thank you for your tips and recommendation.

Yeap! CN16 (green arrow) for the IR RX. You might need to plug in a jumper at CN6 (turquoise arrow). Have fun!

[Hellcat 7]

Thank you!

Yeap! CN16 (green arrow) for the IR RX. You might need to plug in a jumper at CN6 (turquoise arrow). Have fun!

[SoCalBobS]

To clarify, the jumper David refers to at the turquoise arrow will eliminate the "wind-up" to shoot the bb's. Instead, when you press the firing buttons, the gun will shoot the IR beam immediately. We do that in group IR battles. If you don't jumper it, you will have the wind up and then the bb and IR shot at the same time. Your choice.

[Hellcat 7]

To clarify, the jumper David refers to at the turquoise arrow will eliminate the "wind-up" to shoot the bb's. Instead, when you press the firing buttons, the gun will shoot the IR beam immediately. We do that in group IR battles. If you don't jumper it, you will have the wind up and then the bb and IR shot at the same time. Your choice.

Gents,

To get instant fire on the HL 7.0 you press G & B. This will stop the recoil mechanism and you will hear the sound of fire and recoil action thus eliminating the jumper. However, on the 6.0 you will have to place a jumper as noted by DavidN. Thank you to for all the support.

[Hellcat 7]

Original Post deleted. "wrong topic"

[ArmorBolt]

I'm not sure what you're asking.

The (3) wires plug into socket [CN16]. The other 2 wires plug into [LED 3] (tail lights). IF you want to retain the tail lights just splice the two wires into the existing taillight wires. The colors of the wires are just for reference. Observe correct polarity for all connections.

Does this image help?

When I installed the Lego DEI into my tank. The Lego DEI lights up .. and I tested it with my other tank shooting at the Lego DEI and after 5 hits/shakes, the Lego DEI light become off (and after 30 secs or so it Lego DEI lights on again) .. so good so far.. is that the correct behavior. Thanks.

[Rubicon99]

When I installed the Lego DEI into my tank. The Lego DEI lights up .. and I tested it with my other tank shooting at the Lego DEI and after 5 hits/shakes, the Lego DEI light become off (and after 30 secs or so it Lego DEI lights on again) .. so good so far.. is that the correct behavior. Thanks.

Yes.

If you must have your tails lights work you can wire them into the lines for the LegoDEI LEDs. They will turn on and of as usual except when you turn them off manually for battling the tank.

Lights should be turned if during battles as to not be confusing to other players as to your tanks status. They will flash when hit so don't worry about the receiver lighting up it it will when a hit is indicated just like the frontal lights do.

[Dmitrimang]

Having an issue. Not sure if it's my boards or the legodei. I have a HL challenger with a TK6.0S MFD + legodei V2 HL and a T90 with a Beier SFR-1-HL MFD + legodei V1 (non-HL).

The tanks are able to receive and transmit hits, the issue is the hits are happening when the tanks are not aiming at each other.

So lets say I place the two tanks back to back pointed 180 degrees away from other. On firing no hits are registered, as expected. If I turn one of the tanks 90 degrees (still pointing 90 degrees away from the other) hits start to be registered. This happens with both the HL MFD tank and the Beier MFD tank.

Anyone else experienced this or have an idea what it might be?

[Rubicon99]

Having an issue. Not sure if it's my boards or the legodei. I have a HL challenger with a TK6.0S MFD + legodei V2 HL and a T90 with a Beier SFR-1-HL MFD + legodei V1 (non-HL).

The tanks are able to receive and transmit hits, the issue is the hits are happening when the tanks are not aiming at each other.

So lets say I place the two tanks back to back pointed 180 degrees away from other. On firing no hits are registered, as expected. If I turn one of the tanks 90 degrees (still pointing 90 degrees away from the other) hits start to be registered. This happens with both the HL MFD tank and the Beier MFD tank.

Anyone else experienced this or have an idea what it might be?

The LegoDEI are very sensitive compared to the stock HL IR receiver, but that is not your main issue. What your are experiencing is commonly referred to as "shotgunning". Basically your "cannon" IR bulbs are not set back far enough into the tank and or they are not properly shielded within a metal, brass or plastic tube to focus the beam. Without doing both set back and shielding the IR beam spreads in a very wide pattern / directions like a shotgun blast. Then there is the secondary issue, the blast then bounces off any light colored surface and back to the IR receiver this can cause a hit to be registered. Splash is something that happens to even Tamiya IR receivers.


Here is a very basic idea of what I am talking about. Notice the tube that both shields the IR bulb and focus the beam. This example is in the mantle but can also be in the gun barrel.

[quitcherbitchen]

I recommend setting the IR bulb back at least 9mm if you can. If you can't do that then set back the maximum that will fit and then add a removable barrel made out of black straw into the front during battles. Many of my tanks use the removable straw and in most cases it is pretty long so I can focus the beam and not hit friendly's . I can sometimes shoot past them if they are in front and off to the side, It helps to have a LegoDEI target to help you focus the beam. Haoji sells the targets separately.

[Dmitrimang]

Thanks to both of you for the detailed help. Will try these suggestions.

I'll see if I can mount it inside some kind of tube. Appears in it's stock HL form the rear is completely exposed.

[quitcherbitchen]

Here is a picture showing how long a tube/straw cut down the middle to fit inside the infrared bulb housing. Not all tanks are the same. My Panzer III is much shorter and some are just as long. The bulb housing has been extended inside the Mantel as well. Usually, 9-10mm.

[tank_me]

So I have a question for the folks out there with a HL TK7.1 wired up to a LegoDEI receiver (apple). I have the LegoDEI RX plugged into the correct plug and it receives hits just fine. I'm curious as to what port you guys are using for the LED function? Right now I have it plugged into the LED4 slot which is the headlights. Of course you have to turn the headlights off for it to blink when it takes a hit with it wired that way. Is there a better way? Are people wiring up their headlights in parallel with the apple LEDs?

I've always battled with my Clark/Tamiya based tanks or using the stock HL mushroom which is why I'm asking.

[Rubicon99]

So I have a question for the folks out there with a HL TK7.1 wired up to a LegoDEI receiver (apple). I have the LegoDEI RX plugged into the correct plug and it receives hits just fine. I'm curious as to what port you guys are using for the LED function? Right now I have it plugged into the LED4 slot which is the headlights. Of course you have to turn the headlights off for it to blink when it takes a hit with it wired that way. Is there a better way? Are people wiring up their headlights in parallel with the apple LEDs?

I've always battled with my Clark/Tamiya based tanks or using the stock HL mushroom which is why I'm asking.

It is best to use the taillights, they can be turnoff separately from the headlights. You don't loose as much visual effect of having headlights off. I believe it is slot #3 for the taillights. Out here we like people to turn the LED off so that the flash can clearly be seen when hit. The other benefit is you are not screaming "here I am shoot me".

Other than using the headlights or taillights there really is no other option as these are the only two ports that flash when a hit is received. The receiver can be wired in parallel with either the headlights or taillights if you so wish.

[tank_me]

Thanks. Didn't realize the tail lights flashed when hit also. Guess that shows how often I try to battle my HL powered tanks... :)

[DavidN]

For those who have the 7.0 board, L11 slot is the correct slot for the IR receiver light. You can still use the LED3 slot for your tail lights.