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New "compatible" Heng Long 6.0 IR receiver test results

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  • Read through the Sturmgeschutz III - don't do this at home, kids! thread in this forum. A lot of your questions are answered there.
    Brit WW1 Mk IV, FT-17, Ram II, USA M3, M4A3, M10, M26, M41, M1A2, USSR T-34, T-35, KV-1E, Zik-20, T-90, PzKpfw 1A, 1B, II L, III, IV, StuG III & IV, King Tiger, Panther G

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    • Originally posted by DevilDog77 View Post

      Brand new to this hobby. I have the same vehicle and have been wanting to add IR capability to it. I would appreciate it if you would go into detail on how you did your mods. Where you mounted your emitter for example. Did you keep the airsoft function, etc... can I use the stock board or do I have to upgrade to the 6.0 board? Can I use the same controller or do I need a new one?
      Yes, you have to upgrade the system to the 6.0 version. There is a thread on the StuG III where a few of us have done the upgrade.
      https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...s-at-home-kids

      Comment


      • Does anyone here have experience with the MAKO units? I will need to update the electronics in my older version Panzer III and would like to use my Horus radio Vs the Heng Long transmitter. Total Noob here so just wondering if I have it correct. I could update the board with a 6.0 Heng Long or go with another board like a clark tk22? Any thoughts? I really don't need another transmitter LOL.
        RC Tanks Australia MAKO 2020 - Piranha Combo Deal [mako_raha] - MAKO 2020 & Piranha Combo Deal Save $$ by buying a MAKO 2020 and Piranha in combination. FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING MAKO 2020: Better support for Heng Long & Taigen MFUs inc. V2 which features a modified IR code Experimental microswitch replacement connector Experimental gun motor return trigger input So if you are looking for an economical and
        Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
          Does anyone here have experience with the MAKO units? I will need to update the electronics in my older version Panzer III and would like to use my Horus radio Vs the Heng Long transmitter. Total Noob here so just wondering if I have it correct. I could update the board with a 6.0 Heng Long or go with another board like a clark tk22? Any thoughts? I really don't need another transmitter LOL.
          The easiest and most effective would be to upgrade to the new HL 6.0 or 6.1 MFUs followed by a Clark TK? The Clark would allow you to use your own TX and RX.

          Mako boards are for adding battle compatible, have lack luster and spotty performance, plus they only work with the older HL systems. They do nothing to improve the driving dynamics of tanks.

          Comment


          • MAKO boards fill a specific purpose. That is, make a Taigen or older MFU Tamiya compatible. And they serve that purpose well. However, in today's electronics, you'd be better served simply upgrading to the HL 6.0, (similar money). A clark board is in a whole nother category of upgrade. BTW: Any Recent HL transmitter can be bound to any 6.0 MFU, so you may not "need" another radio.

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            • I don't own any 6.0 Heng Long transmitters. The one coming has a 5. version 2.4 ghz "I think". I want to bind to Spektrum or FrSky. I have tons of those transmitters as well as a Jumper 4 in1 for binding to just about any aircraft receiver protocol. for me if I can get a board that uses regular receivers I can have more range and options if I choose for only a little more money. I will have to buy a 6.0 transmitter and board which will cost more then half to a better aftermarket board. Am I fooling myself? Should I just get a 6.0 combo and be done?
              Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

              Comment


              • Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
                I don't own any 6.0 Heng Long transmitters. The one coming has a 5. version 2.4 ghz "I think". I want to bind to Spektrum or FrSky. I have tons of those transmitters as well as a Jumper 4 in1 for binding to just about any aircraft receiver protocol. for me if I can get a board that uses regular receivers I can have more range and options if I choose for only a little more money. I will have to buy a 6.0 transmitter and board which will cost more then half to a better aftermarket board. Am I fooling myself? Should I just get a 6.0 combo and be done?
                Just upgraded it to a 6.0 system.

                6.0 complete systems are relatively cheap and easy to find. Complete they run in the neighborhood of $50. Which is much cheaper then buying a completely new 6.0 tank.

                Sadly at this time the 6.0-6.1 systems are not capable of using any other TX then the one offered by HL.

                Comment


                • Click image for larger version

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ID:	292337 I just received my Kit from LegoDEI. Where are you guys putting the IR emitter on Panzer III or IV tanks? Do you remove the existing BB fire indicator LED? Seems like the Barrel sight portal to the right would be a better spot. Just have to cut the turret mantel to clear. I am using a Clark 40 board. I guess I wire the IR emitter LED straight to the board (J1) from what I can tell. The LED on the Lego DEI receiver is for hit counts? That goes into (Cn2)? Any input would be appreciated. I realize most everyone uses HL MFU, but maybe Rubicon or Vaseline can comment.

                  This is what I am using to interpret the wiring. This was taken from a post from Shorty 54. The Clark diagram is confusing as it is posted in a linear edit that doesn't clearly define the sockets.

                  "Ok, so just an update to what I ended up doing. As stated above I pluged the Gun Flash directly into the TK22 (same as a 40 which is what I have) port, bypassing the connector in the top of the turret. To get the IR function to work properly on both the Tiger and T34, I installed the new IR LED (IR010) that came with the board, to the connector that came with the board (CAB001) and plugged that into PORT J1 on the TK22(40). Here is where I get confused I then took the 2 wires that connected the original Taigen IR LED,(my Panzer never had IR just BB) and connected a red LED and ran the led to the top of where the HBU is. Now the red LED flashes when it takes a hit. I also believe this will help with programing when I get the remote. I can easily push the LED out of site if not battling. So in the end all is working and Im satisfied, "
                  Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                  Comment


                  • Hi, here are the diagrams you're probably looking for. http://www.clark-model.com/eng/prod_rx40/index.html If you scroll down it tells you what each pin on the CN2 plug is, just match it up with the labels on the receiver and you should be set. For future reference, I don't check this forum all that frequently, so if you do have a question related to my products, feel free to post the thread here, and send me the link through etsy. I will respond on this forum so that future users can have a point of reference.
                    CN2 Infrared Port 1. HBU/TBU +
                    2. HBU/TBU SIG
                    3. HBU/TBU -
                    4. TBU FLASH LED -
                    5. TBU FLASH LED +

                    Comment


                    • Thank you Lego, but how does that read? right to left. So the left pin is closest to the center of the board is 1. HBU/TBU+, second from left HBU/TBU sig, etc ?
                      Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                      Comment


                      • you can measure it with a meter. I expect the LED + to be off when it's not hit and not flashing, and the TBU + to be always on

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                        • I get power of 5.04 volts out of the left pin when facing from the top. Signal no power. Does that sound right. I can't get the TBU to work. At least not with the Pill box or even shooting at itself with the tanks own IR emitter. Scratching what is left of my hair LOL.
                          Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                          Comment


                          • if you're talking about TBU SIG that's an input pin not an output pin on the MFU. Generally tanks aren't able to hit themselves because the software will block out incoming signals during transmission. Otherwise shooting at most flat surfaces would end up killing itself and not be very much fun. Having said that I personally have no experience with clark boards, you may be better off trying to summon Kenny Gaddis who is the expert on these.

                            Comment


                            • Thank your very much. I will call Kenny
                              Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Beeg View Post
                                Click image for larger version Name:	HLSherman_LegoDEI_05.jpg Views:	0 Size:	129.5 KB ID:	250387
                                After a little sanding and painting the new LegoDEI IR sensor almost looks like a part of the tank.
                                The sunshade pictured is the 360 degree model vs the "Tamiya" quadrant style sunshade.
                                I'm using Beeg's picture to illustrate what I am going to ask about but my question is for anybody that can answer it.

                                I'm in the planning stages of adding a LegoDEI IR receiver to my Sherman. I really like the way Beeg's conversion looks, but I have a question. Does the commander's cupola not interfere with shots coming from the right hand side of the tank. I am completely new to this. The assumption I was working under was that I should put the IR receiver high enough to be in 'clean' air. Is that not as big a concern as I had imagined it to be?

                                I would really like to mount the IR in the top of the commanders' cupola but I haven't figure out how to get the hatch off. Is it possible to remove the hinged hatches on Heng Long tanks without damaging them?

                                Thanks,

                                Jim

                                Comment


                                • Originally posted by OKC_Jim View Post

                                  I'm using Beeg's picture to illustrate what I am going to ask about but my question is for anybody that can answer it.

                                  I'm in the planning stages of adding a LegoDEI IR receiver to my Sherman. I really like the way Beeg's conversion looks, but I have a question. Does the commander's cupola not interfere with shots coming from the right hand side of the tank. I am completely new to this. The assumption I was working under was that I should put the IR receiver high enough to be in 'clean' air. Is that not as big a concern as I had imagined it to be?

                                  I would really like to mount the IR in the top of the commanders' cupola but I haven't figure out how to get the hatch off. Is it possible to remove the hinged hatches on Heng Long tanks without damaging them?

                                  Thanks,

                                  Jim
                                  I have extensive experience with the DEI receivers. The photos above clearly show it placed in a location that will allow it to be hit easily.

                                  The LegoDEI receiver is very sensitive and they use 4 IR receiver “bulbs” vs the 1 that Tamiya and HL use. They are less susceptible to “deflection” from obstructions so can be mount much tighter to the turret (low profile). Even still you should test the location and height to ensure that the receiver can be reliably hit from all sides (at least 25ft away) before securing it.

                                  The commander’s hatch is the most common location for an IR receiver to be placed on a Sherman. The DEI with the 360 sunshade should fit the HL commander’s hatch even with the hatch open and still attached. The problem is the “low profile” of the DEI and open hatch might or might not deflect some incoming IR beams from the right quarter depending on distance fired from.

                                  I have used the Tamiya version of the DEI on my Tamiya Sherman (IDF M51) that has the IR receiver plug in the commander hatch and I have not had any issues even with the open hatch and MG obstruction.

                                  See photos below.
                                  Note: This tank uses full Tamiya electronics not HL. The Tamiya system tends to be more sensitive.


                                  Click image for larger version  Name:	2DB47D13-6491-4AB2-A42B-37283BF0A3CC.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	123.8 KB ID:	295582Click image for larger version  Name:	C7FA067E-2C3B-4BDA-B5DB-EC05C4C2B2AE.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	119.2 KB ID:	295581Click image for larger version  Name:	AF17F9AD-4287-42D0-91A2-4D193ADB1F44.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	77.9 KB ID:	295580Click image for larger version  Name:	DF5FBB71-32F3-467D-86E2-1D38AF1DE59F.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	68.0 KB ID:	295583

                                  Comment


                                  • Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                                    I have extensive experience with the DEI receivers. The photos above clearly show it placed in a location that will allow it to be hit easily.

                                    The LegoDEI receiver is very sensitive and they use 4 IR receiver “bulbs” vs the 1 that Tamiya and HL use. They are less susceptible to “deflection” from obstructions so can be mount much tighter to the turret (low profile). Even still you should test the location and height to ensure that the receiver can be reliably hit from all sides (at least 25ft away) before securing it....
                                    Thanks for your comments, Rubicon. Sounds like I was overthinking it and 'clean' air isn't as big a deal as I imagined it to be.

                                    Another questions. Say I decide to mount it in the loader's hatch as shown by Beeg but would like the receiver a bit higher BUT I still want the plug hidden inside the hatch. Is there a simple way of making the rigid male plugs on the bottom of the IR receiver longer? Say that I wanted the plugs currently sticking out of the IR receiver to be 5/8" instead of 1/4" to buy me an extra 3/8" of height? Keeping in mind my goal it to not use flexible wires that I'll then have to figure out a way of making rigid.

                                    Final question. I currently only have 1 IR capable tank. Stuff I ordered to convert my StuG was lost in the mail. My initial plan was to convert my StuG first and use the Sherman to 'shoot' at it. Then convert the Sherman using the StuG to shoot at it. But that is on hold until the package is recovered or resent. Besides another IR capable tank, what can I use to 'shoot' at my Sherman to check that it can be hit from all directions from at least 25' away?

                                    Thanks.

                                    Jim



                                    Comment


                                    • Originally posted by OKC_Jim View Post

                                      Thanks for your comments, Rubicon. Sounds like I was overthinking it and 'clean' air isn't as big a deal as I imagined it to be.

                                      Another questions. Say I decide to mount it in the loader's hatch as shown by Beeg but would like the receiver a bit higher BUT I still want the plug hidden inside the hatch. Is there a simple way of making the rigid male plugs on the bottom of the IR receiver longer? Say that I wanted the plugs currently sticking out of the IR receiver to be 5/8" instead of 1/4" to buy me an extra 3/8" of height? Keeping in mind my goal it to not use flexible wires that I'll then have to figure out a way of making rigid.

                                      Final question. I currently only have 1 IR capable tank. Stuff I ordered to convert my StuG was lost in the mail. My initial plan was to convert my StuG first and use the Sherman to 'shoot' at it. Then convert the Sherman using the StuG to shoot at it. But that is on hold until the package is recovered or resent. Besides another IR capable tank, what can I use to 'shoot' at my Sherman to check that it can be hit from all directions from at least 25' away?

                                      Thanks.

                                      Jim


                                      I have seen some 5 pin male/female connectors that could be used as “extensions” to raise the height of the IR receiver. I don’t have a link to them but I am sure a Google or Amazon search will turn them up.

                                      Not really a good way to test your HL tank without another to shoot at it with. You can try to “bounce” a shot off a mirror or white surface. These can sometimes cause hits on yourself with the HL systems.

                                      Comment


                                      • Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
                                        I have seen some 5 pin male/female connectors that could be used as “extensions” to raise the height of the IR receiver. I don’t have a link to them but I am sure a Google or Amazon search will turn them up.
                                        I've been searching and seen a few that looked promising but I'm afraid I'll order a 100 (due to minimum order size or something) and then they won't be the right size or something. lol

                                        Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
                                        Not really a good way to test your HL tank without another to shoot at it with. You can try to “bounce” a shot off a mirror or white surface. These can sometimes cause hits on yourself with the HL systems.
                                        I was afraid of that. My best course of action is probably to wait until my stuff to upgrade my StuG shows up. I'm in the mood to work now. I was hoping there was something constructive I could be doing. lol


                                        Comment


                                        • Try Hansen Hobbies. Everything will cost around $11-15. Not sure about HL, but my clark boards can't actually hit themselves.
                                          Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

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