HL metal track disassemble question

[DaveBurzum]

Hello, new member and brand new R/C tank owner here

I recently purchased a HL T90 pro and am finding that the tracks are too loose

It seems like I need a small diameter punch in order to remove the pins in order to tighten up the tracks as mine has a habit of throwing the tracks when turning

Any advice on how to properly disassemble the track or otherwise tighten the track by maybe reposition the road or drive wheels would be appreciated!

[Rubicon99]

Hello, new member and brand new R/C tank owner here

I recently purchased a HL T90 pro and am finding that the tracks are too loose

It seems like I need a small diameter punch in order to remove the pins in order to tighten up the tracks as mine has a habit of throwing the tracks when turning

Any advice on how to properly disassemble the track or otherwise tighten the track by maybe reposition the road or drive wheels would be appreciated!

If your T90 is a 6.0 version there in no need to shorten the tracks. Simply use the idler wheel tensioner/adjuster to move the idler wheels one or two notches forward. This will tighten the track back up. Same process real tanks use.

To access the tensioner you must first separate the upper and lower hulls, then remove the track and the idler wheels (small front wheel). Once you have removed the wheels you will see a small screw. Loosen the screw, pull up on the idler axle and rotate the idler axle forward. Tighten the screw back down and reinstall the ideal wheels and tracks.

Should take no more then a few minutes your first time.

[DaveBurzum]

I think there are two different hull types used in the T90, if my hull's battery compartment has a flat tray does that make it a 6.0 hull or an earlier one?

[Rubicon99]

I think there are two different hull types used in the T90, if my hull's battery compartment has a flat tray does that make it a 6.0 hull or an earlier one?

The new 6.0 T90 has a different lower hull then the older 5.2/3 T90. If your battery box door is more then 4” long and runs longitudinal with the hull, it is an older hull without the new idler adjuster.

Below is what the new 6.0 T90 battery door should look like.

[DaveBurzum]

Interesting, I have the small battery door but mine is also flat instead of bulged out as pictured in yours

[DaveBurzum]

After removing the track and the idler wheel this is what I see

I just wanted to make certain that this block is meant to rotate and adjust the position of the idler because it does not move easily and I am worried about breaking the hull of I try to force it

[Rubicon99]

After removing the track and the idler wheel this is what I see

I just wanted to make certain that this block is meant to rotate and adjust the position of the idler because it does not move easily and I am worried about breaking the hull of I try to force it

Yes that is the idler adjuster.

[DaveBurzum]

Ok, here was the missing piece, the idler must be pulled straight out slightly before it can be rotated

[Rubicon99]

Interesting, I have the small battery door but mine is also flat instead of bulged out as pictured in yours

That door is the new one because as I understand it HL went to a different battery and no longer needs the hump for adding space. The hump makes the already crappy ground clearance even worst. It’s good to see they recognized the clearance problem and went back to a flat door.👍

All three of mine T90&T72 (same lower hull) have larger internally mounted batteries and I had to make flat doors.

[Beeg]

Ok, here was the missing piece, the idler must be pulled straight out slightly before it can be rotated

By the way Dave, ......Welcome to the Hobby Squawk forum!.

[Rubicon99]

Ok, here was the missing piece, the idler must be pulled straight out slightly before it can be rotated

Yes you can pull it all the way out but you don’t need to. Just lift it slightly until it turns and you feel the ratchet groves moving over each other. Once in the desired position push down lightly and you should feel the groves lock/engage together. Once this happens tighten with screw.

[DaveBurzum]

Speaking of the batteries, the li-ion that ship with the tank seem to be just 18650s in series (nominal 3.7v out)

Has anyone here attempted to make their own pack? High capacity high peak amp drain 18650s are available at any vape shop, I myself have a set of 3600mah 40A peak discharge 18650s made by Samsung I believe

It seems it would be a fairly simple task to A: make your own, or B: install an 18650 holder and connecting it directly to the MFCB in lieu of the battery packs, then you'd be able to use a standard 18650 charger and swap out your batteries more easily

[Rubicon99]

Double post....See below

[Rubicon99]

Speaking of the batteries, the li-ion that ship with the tank seem to be just 18650s in series (nominal 3.7v out)

Has anyone here attempted to make their own pack? High capacity high peak amp drain 18650s are available at any vape shop, I myself have a set of 3600mah 40A peak discharge 18650s made by Samsung I believe

It seems it would be a fairly simple task to A: make your own, or B: install an 18650 holder and connecting it directly to the MFCB in lieu of the battery packs, then you'd be able to use a standard 18650 charger and swap out your batteries more easily

Motion RC sells a 7.4v Li-Ion 3500 pack that fits the battery box. With stock 380 motors and metal tracks it last about 30 minutes of continuous use.

My internal batteries are 5000 mAh 9.6v NiMH because I run higher power high draw motors and need the voltage to get the most out of them. All mine have scale top end speeds of ~40-45mph or about 2.5 times that of the stock T90/72.

With the 6.0 system it is best practice to keep the voltage no higher then 9.6 even though the system is rated to just past 12v. So as long as the voltage of “homemade” batteries does not go past 10v it’s should be fine.

All that said it is quite common to see tanks with “homemade” custom battery arrangements.