HL T99A issues

[dai phan]

Hi all,

Last night I had to replace the motors so I took the sprocket wheels off along with the metal tracks. But when I tried to put back the tracks I could not because I was now about 1.0mm away from the sprocket shafts. So I ended up repositioning the idler wheels a bit backward so I could slide the tracks into place but then the track become too lose! I found out that if I put the tracks back along with the idlers (rather than at the sprockets), I can put the track back much easier without having to adjust the idlers position. Am I doing this re-assembly correct? Dai

PS: I have learned so much by tinkering with the parts and try to find solutions to the problems. I was delighted to see the T99A inside is rather clean and not a wiring nightmare mess like the T72.

[Rubicon99]

Hi all,

Last night I had to replace the motors so I took the sprocket wheels off along with the metal tracks. But when I tried to put back the tracks I could not because I was now about 1.0mm away from the sprocket shafts. So I ended up repositioning the idler wheels a bit backward so I could slide the tracks into place but then the track become too lose! I found out that if I put the tracks back along with the idlers (rather than at the sprockets), I can put the track back much easier without having to adjust the idlers position. Am I doing this re-assembly correct? Dai

PS: I have learned so much by tinkering with the parts and try to find solutions to the problems. I was delighted to see the T99A inside is rather clean and not a wiring nightmare mess like the T72.

Good to hear you are diving into taking your tanks apart. The first few times it is a little intimidating but becomes easier the more you do it.

With tracks, sometimes it’s easier via the sprockets sometimes the idler. Each tank is different and have their own maintenance quirks.

[dai phan]

Good to hear you are diving into taking your tanks apart. The first few times it is a little intimidating but becomes easier the more you do it.

With tracks, sometimes it’s easier via the sprockets sometimes the idler. Each tank is different and have their own maintenance quirks.

I start to see that HL tanks are not that complicated in engineering. The tank runs by multiple parts connecting together and can be easily serviced or replaced. Dai

[dai phan]

Hi all,

Just got home and got the wires reversed as advised. Still no go so I switched the wire motors meaning M1 now goes into M2 and vise versa. And black still goes to red and red goes to black and it works! Thank you all for helping me on this . But I learned a lesson. This is not Tamiya tank with Tamiya electronics. It does not have Futaba or Spektrum electronics. These are nothing more than expensive toy grade hardware and software ( yes I was brought to my attention from a comment on RC Tank Warfare) so I should not expected too much as I did. As long as I have this realistic expectation now I should be happy of what these HL tanks have to offer. I think the reason why the tank could not do a spin is due to the suspension was arm out of place and prevented the idler wheel from turning as seen on photo. Dai

[dai phan]

Yes the older steel “black gears” do run smoother. Has to do with the way the gear “teeth” are cut. I prefer them over the new steel “silver gears”.

So forward is reverse and reverse is now forward? If so, I would simply swap the motor power lines around from red/red, blk/blk to red/blk on each motor. This is a common practice and most often done with the red 390 motors. I have never had it hurt anything.

If reversing the wires does not work then there is another issues.

I found out not only reverse the wires but may also need to switch the motors to MFU connections too. Dai