Help with HL Abrams

[RCP5]

Hi. I'm new to RC tanks and I just received my first one -- an HL Abrams. I'm learning how to take the tank apart so I can service the various items. I'm a little stumped with how to remove the guide wheels (not sure if that's what they are even called). It's the wheels along the top (above the road wheels) on which the track rests. One of them appears to be misaligned and I'm not sure how to fix it. I can remove the wheel just fine, but I'm not sure how to remove the metal piece that houses the wheel. Below is a picture. The one on the left side picture of the tank is too far out -- I think it should be like the picture on right side of the tank. I thought maybe the post screwed on and off, but it doesn't seem to turn. And I tried yanking on it (slightly) and it wouldn't move. Before I break something, I thought I'd ask some sage advice from the wise folks on this forum on how to adjust this part.
Thanks in advance.

[Rubicon99]

Hi. I'm new to RC tanks and I just received my first one -- an HL Abrams. I'm learning how to take the tank apart so I can service the various items. I'm a little stumped with how to remove the guide wheels (not sure if that's what they are even called). It's the wheels along the top (above the road wheels) on which the track rests. One of them appears to be misaligned and I'm not sure how to fix it. I can remove the wheel just fine, but I'm not sure how to remove the metal piece that houses the wheel. Below is a picture. The one on the left side picture of the tank is too far out -- I think it should be like the picture on right side of the tank. I thought maybe the post screwed on and off, but it doesn't seem to turn. And I tried yanking on it (slightly) and it wouldn't move. Before I break something, I thought I'd ask some sage advice from the wise folks on this forum on how to adjust this part.
Thanks in advance.

It looks like the return roller axle was not inserted fully. Kinda hard to remove. If it is not giving you any de-tracking issues then I would leave it be.

[RCP5]

It looks like the return roller axle was not inserted fully. Kinda hard to remove. If it is not giving you any de-tracking issues then I would leave it be.

Thanks, Rubicon. When I run my tank for a while, not that aggressive, on carpet, I do experience either the track separating (pin becomes loose) or the rear sprocket separating (the screw becomes loose). Would this be caused by the return? For my own education, how would one remove it and re-install it?

[Rubicon99]

Thanks, Rubicon. When I run my tank for a while, not that aggressive, on carpet, I do experience either the track separating (pin becomes loose) or the rear sprocket separating (the screw becomes loose). Would this be caused by the return? For my own education, how would one remove it and re-install it?

Track pins coming out is rather common so is the sprocket screw becoming loose. The sprocket screw just needs to be torqued down a little more, but the pins there is not much you can do about except moving over to a metal track.

I wish I could tell you an easy non destructive way to remove the part but there isn’t one that I have found. All the methods I have seen and used require some form of cutting, drilling and re-attachment method which are not easily explain on a forum post.

I have made completely new return rollers and mounts then repossession them on the hull a number of times on a few Abrams and others. It’s not hard (if you have modeling/hobby experience) but is a bit of time consuming work. For the Abrams I use M41/26 return rollers and make a mount/axle that is attached to/through the hull slightly closer to the sprocket.

I know that does not really help you but it should give you a idea of what might be needed should you proceed with modifying or fixing the return roller.

[RCP5]

Track pins coming out is rather common so is the sprocket screw becoming loose. The sprocket screw just needs to be torqued down a little more, but the pins there is not much you can do about except moving over to a metal track.

I wish I could tell you an easy non destructive way to remove the part but there isn’t one that I have found. All the methods I have seen and used require some form of cutting, drilling and re-attachment method which are not easily explain on a forum post.

I have made completely new return rollers and mounts then repossession them on the hull a number of times on a few Abrams and others. It’s not hard (if you have modeling/hobby experience) but is a bit of time consuming work. For the Abrams I use M41/26 return rollers and make a mount/axle that is attached to/through the hull slightly closer to the sprocket.

I know that does not really help you but it should give you a idea of what might be needed should you proceed with modifying or fixing the return roller.

Thanks again, Rubicon. The track I have is metal. Maybe I just live with it or someday move to a double-pin track. I'll try torquing down the screw a bit more. I've never quite sure what parts of the tank I can crank down and what I shouldn't (because it will break, strip, etc.).

The return roller project sounds kind of fun. Perhaps as I get more familiar with the tank and more comfortable with this hobby I'll tackle that one. For now, maybe I'll move to something else -- like painting those wheels.

[canklebreaker]

Hmm interesting, I was under the impression the return wheels are built that way, with one being shorter/closer to the body and one being longer/further away. My HL Abrams is the same way. So you're saying they should be equal distance from the body? Either on the inside or outside of the middle teeth of the tracks?

[Rubicon99]

Hmm interesting, I was under the impression the return wheels are built that way, with one being shorter/closer to the body and one being longer/further away. My HL Abrams is the same way. So you're saying they should be equal distance from the body? Either on the inside or outside of the middle teeth of the tracks?

No that is not what is being said. The OP has a wheel that is installed in a way that the track guide teeth are riding up onto the wheel. This is the aspect that is not normal.

Tha Abram is supposed to have one return roller wheel on the outside and one wheel on the inside of the guide teeth. IMO not the best setup for an RC tank, but is correctly modeled to represent the real tank.

[canklebreaker]

Thanks for the clarification!

[sclui56]

I also have the same issue with the return roller as the OP and my Abrams has a late 2020 build date, and it's on the left side where the horns would ride "on" the rear return roller rather than in front of. A quick fix would suggest filing down the metal roller support if it is that difficult to reseat it properly.

Rubicon, since you have removed the stock support when replacing the rollers, is that metal roller support press-fit or bonded to the hull?

[Rubicon99]

I also have the same issue with the return roller as the OP and my Abrams has a late 2020 build date, and it's on the left side where the horns would ride "on" the rear return roller rather than in front of. A quick fix would suggest filing down the metal roller support if it is that difficult to reseat it properly.

Rubicon, since you have removed the stock support when replacing the rollers, is that metal roller support press-fit or bonded to the hull?

On the Abrams I have always assumed they are press fit, but might be molded in. Either way I have never been able to remove one without cutting it off. They are hallow so it makes it easy to install the M41/M26 return rollers. The rollers simply press fit into the hollow shaft and are held in place by pressure extremely well.

Below is an Abrams hull I am doing a build up on for another forum member. Shown are the M41 return rollers installed. These work extremely well. They of course are not authentic looking but they are completely hidden behind the hull skirts.

[sclui56]

On the Abrams I have always assumed they are press fit, but might be molded in. Either way I have never been able to remove one without cutting it off. They are hallow so it makes it easy to install the M41/M26 return rollers. The rollers simply press fit into the hollow shaft and are held in place by pressure extremely well.

Rubicon, many thanks for the confirmation, I am totally fine for not being prototypical, besides the rollers are behind the skirts. May I ask where these can be purchased separately? I often see the rollers as part of an upgrade package. Thanks!

[Zippersnapper]

Rubicon, many thanks for the confirmation, I am totally fine for not being prototypical, besides the rollers are behind the skirts. May I ask where these can be purchased separately? I often see the rollers as part of an upgrade package. Thanks!

I would like to 2nd that motion. Also, where the best place to score the rubber/metal tracks? Any US vendors?

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon, many thanks for the confirmation, I am totally fine for not being prototypical, besides the rollers are behind the skirts. May I ask where these can be purchased separately? I often see the rollers as part of an upgrade package. Thanks!

Toucan has them “stand alone” in their tank parts but does not usually list them on EBay as “stand alone”. Or you can find them on Aliexpress.com under Heng Long WalkerBulldog or Pershing/Snow Leopard parts. There are plastic and mental version of which I use both.

[Rubicon99]

I would like to 2nd that motion. Also, where the best place to score the rubber/metal tracks? Any US vendors?

Since Tamiya tracks have all but dried up that leaves Toucan Hobby as the only reliable source of rubber padded tracks in the US. Fortunately they sell the next best ones (same ones DKLM sells). They are not always available though but are restocked usually in a timely manner.

[sclui56]

Toucan has them “stand alone” in their tank parts but does not usually list them on EBay as “stand alone”. Or you can find them on Aliexpress.com under Heng Long WalkerBulldog or Pershing/Snow Leopard parts. There are plastic and mental version of which I use both.

Thanks, just got to keep looking I suppose. Found some plastic ones but not the metal....

[Rubicon99]

Thanks, just got to keep looking I suppose. Found some plastic ones but not the metal....

The plastic ones work just as well.

[sclui56]

The plastic ones work just as well.

Good to know, meanwhile I did a quick fix by shaving the support a bit, at least the horns are no longer riding on top of the rear roller. Bought me some time in waiting for the slow boat. Thanks again!!

[GITanker]

The Abram is supposed to have one return roller wheel on the outside and one wheel on the inside of the guide teeth. IMO not the best setup for an RC tank, but it is correctly modeled to represent the real Abrams.

Rubicon99. just a small note. The M1 Abrams has always had the support rollers on the inside of the center guides. See picture.

Thank you

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon99. just a small note. The M1 Abrams has always had the support rollers on the inside of the center guides. See picture.

Thank you

Not talking about the real tank in this thread, but thank you for the correction. Sometimes even I get little details wrong trying to keep all these different real tanks suspension straight in my head.

More importantly especially with tanks that have their suspension covered is to get the model to work reliably regardless of correctness in unseen details. Case in point the modification I show above.

[sclui56]

Rubicon99 , the metal M41/M26 return rollers just showed up. I take it you simply measure and cut down the original metal support and jam the metal assembly into the support tube?