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Shock swap-Walker Bulldog

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  • Shock swap-Walker Bulldog

    Thought I would show an easy method for swapping metal shocks for the plastic ones on a Henglong Walker...
    After removing the idler & tracks, I take a set of needle nose pliers and twist the upper shock mount which is pressed fit into place. The Pin has splines which grips the boss in the hull:

    Click image for larger version

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    By twisting the pin, it free's it up, and allows it to come out just a tad. Trying to grab and pull it at this point gets nerve racking, as its pretty soft metal, not to mention the hull is plastic. I made a wedge/fork tool out of a bolt, which gets under the tiny gap created by the needle nose pliers. If you have ever removed a ball joint on a car, you know where this idea came from.

    Click image for larger version

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    After its out a good way, then take the needle nose pliers and finish the job...

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    The head of the pins get chewed up just a little...cant be helped...need the grip of the teeth to free them up.
    This is easily remedied by chucking up the pins in a drill, and hitting them lightly with some emery cloth...after which everything gets painted anyway.

    Hope this helps....
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
    Thought I would show an easy method for swapping metal shocks for the plastic ones on a Henglong Walker...
    After removing the idler & tracks, I take a set of needle nose pliers and twist the upper shock mount which is pressed fit into place. The Pin has splines which grips the boss in the hull:

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210430_133125.jpg Views:	6 Size:	93.2 KB ID:	311001

    By twisting the pin, it free's it up, and allows it to come out just a tad. Trying to grab and pull it at this point gets nerve racking, as its pretty soft metal, not to mention the hull is plastic. I made a wedge/fork tool out of a bolt, which gets under the tiny gap created by the needle nose pliers. If you have ever removed a ball joint on a car, you know where this idea came from.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210430_133014.jpg Views:	6 Size:	75.8 KB ID:	311003

    After its out a good way, then take the needle nose pliers and finish the job...

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210430_134835.jpg Views:	6 Size:	94.2 KB ID:	311004
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210430_135532.jpg Views:	6 Size:	143.9 KB ID:	311006

    The head of the pins get chewed up just a little...cant be helped...need the grip of the teeth to free them up.
    This is easily remedied by chucking up the pins in a drill, and hitting them lightly with some emery cloth...after which everything gets painted anyway.

    Hope this helps....
    Nice write up and photos. 👍👍

    I would add that once you have all the metal shocks on the suspension will be rather stiff for a while until the spring wear in a bit. Also adding some more weight to the front of the M41 will help these shocks work to their best potential.


    Comment


    • #3
      No doubt, kind sir. And a 10mm deep well makes a great hub cap installation tool !

      Comment


      • #4
        The Bulldog got 2 new "Red" motors courtesy of Motion RC...good to go:
        Click image for larger version

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        Attempted to install Metal Turret motor & ring. FYI: If you put Red motors in, they are longer than stock (Duh). The metal after market turret motor comes with an extra Wedge as part of the casting. Why, I dont know. The extra wedge on the side of the motor interferes with the motor not allowing the lid (top hull) to close. I suppose if you were to only run a red motor on the bottom, and the stock shorter motor up top, you would be good to go....but would be stupid of course.

        Click image for larger version

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        I can't win for lose...So it will run a metal ring and a plastic motor for now...Once again, stupid.

        Comment


        • #5
          Did you get the ring + motor from DKLM? I was planning on doing that, and shouldn't be a problem in the Leo or Abrams, and on my PZ4, motors are up front so it should be fine. Can't you use the motor on your modern tank?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
            The Bulldog got 2 new "Red" motors courtesy of Motion RC...good to go:
            Click image for larger version

Name:	20210506_113205.jpg
Views:	348
Size:	159.2 KB
ID:	311729

            Attempted to install Metal Turret motor & ring. FYI: If you put Red motors in, they are longer than stock (Duh). The metal after market turret motor comes with an extra Wedge as part of the casting. Why, I dont know. The extra wedge on the side of the motor interferes with the motor not allowing the lid (top hull) to close. I suppose if you were to only run a red motor on the bottom, and the stock shorter motor up top, you would be good to go....but would be stupid of course.

            Click image for larger version

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Views:	324
Size:	154.2 KB
ID:	311730

            I can't win for lose...So it will run a metal ring and a plastic motor for now...Once again, stupid.
            That is a very different metal turret motor gearbox setup then has been solid prior. There should not be any interference issues with the motor and metal turret gearbox. Unless it is the high torque one and not the high speed one?

            Gotta say I almost forgot what a clean inside looked liked. Here is one of mine form the other day when I had it open replacing an axle shaft. Two year worth of dust.

            Click image for larger version

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            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
              Did you get the ring + motor from DKLM? I was planning on doing that, and shouldn't be a problem in the Leo or Abrams, and on my PZ4, motors are up front so it should be fine. Can't you use the motor on your modern tank?
              The ring & motor came from Toucan-Ebay. Yes, there is no interference in the Abrams, only the Walker. I do have the ring for the Abrams (The Abrams uses a large ring, the Walker a small), and at first was going to put the complete setup in the Abrams, but when I did, it kept binding up. I'm sure (as Rubicon pointed out) I must have had wiring getting in the way or something. Holding the top hull up off the lower, it operated smooth. When closed, it would bind up......even though I checked and triple checked to make sure nothing was in the way????? I'll give it a go, again...as I hate to just let it sit unused.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                That is a very different metal turret motor gearbox setup then has been solid prior. There should not be any interference issues with the motor and metal turret gearbox. Unless it is the high torque one and not the high speed one?

                Gotta say I almost forgot what a clean inside looked liked. Here is one of mine form the other day when I had it open replacing an axle shaft. Two year worth of dust.

                Click image for larger version

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                Jesus my friend, how do you sleep at night? My OCD would have me tossing & turning !!!

                Not sure about the type of Motor. Looking at the plastic vs metal, that wedge protrusion (which houses the actual motor) is a dealbreaker in the Walker. Kinda FUBAR if you ask me.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post

                  The ring & motor came from Toucan-Ebay. Yes, there is no interference in the Abrams, only the Walker. I do have the ring for the Abrams (The Abrams uses a large ring, the Walker a small), and at first was going to put the complete setup in the Abrams, but when I did, it kept binding up. I'm sure (as Rubicon pointed out) I must have had wiring getting in the way or something. Holding the top hull up off the lower, it operated smooth. When closed, it would bind up......even though I checked and triple checked to make sure nothing was in the way????? I'll give it a go, again...as I hate to just let it sit unused.

                  I see. as a side note, I stripped my Abrams so all the lower parts are in trays, need to paint the wheels + waiting for replacement of 1 bad red motor. Being honest about this, I feel the Taigen Leo is built better than the HL Abrams, metal hull notwithstanding, at least the upper hull daughter board in the Leo is secured and not dangling with gravity, I too need to investigate the intermittent sluggishness of the turret rotation (it has the 360) on the HL. While it wouldn't really affect its function, I also see flat spots on the HL metal rollers.

                  Well, what can you do, Taigen doesn't offer as many models as HL, so have to pick & choose. Good luck in sorting out the turret motor.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by sclui56 View Post


                    I see. as a side note, I stripped my Abrams so all the lower parts are in trays, need to paint the wheels + waiting for replacement of 1 bad red motor. Being honest about this, I feel the Taigen Leo is built better than the HL Abrams, metal hull notwithstanding, at least the upper hull daughter board in the Leo is secured and not dangling with gravity, I too need to investigate the intermittent sluggishness of the turret rotation (it has the 360) on the HL. While it wouldn't really affect its function, I also see flat spots on the HL metal rollers.

                    Well, what can you do, Taigen doesn't offer as many models as HL, so have to pick & choose. Good luck in sorting out the turret motor.
                    Thank you for sharing your observations. I have one Taigen, the Sherman 76mm. I have no plans to buy another Taigen as you pointed out the reason. What has my interest though, is the Torro tanks that Motion will hopefully be getting in soon........they do look promising.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      But Taigen & Torro are nearly one of the same, just different channels.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
                        But Taigen & Torro are nearly one of the same, just different channels.
                        That's what I have read, but...................................Taigen dont male a Jagdtiger !

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Headlights installed. Purist will argue that the inner beams should be dark due to infrared use, but I have seen a few real Bulldogs with dual beams...so I went with that..


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