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PzKpfw II Ausf L "Luchs"
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I painted the tank according to the chart in the kit from Classy Hobby as tank numbers 4121 Normandy 1944. I put on as many accessories on the tank as I could :-) I will try to weather it tomorrow. I would like to finish it this week so I can bring to the LA tank battle next Saturday to get some help on the LED headlight installation.
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By the way, I haven't installed the headlights yet. would like to put two LED lights inside them. I have 2 extra LED lights from HL. Bob if you intend to put in the lights too and have any idea how to do it, when you get to this stage, kindly share this with me. I intend to bring it to the LA battle and ask some of the pros there to help out.
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More work was done on my Lynx last night. To save me time later, I decided to give a quick black paint on the tires first before putting the tracks and the sprockets on. I damaged a few track links but I was able to utilize them for the spare track rack in the front. I will start sanding off all the excesses from the sprue and then start airbrushing.
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Good, now you’re the trailblazer! We’ve been away for a week.
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That's killer! Did Patton ever command one? That would be cool. Sneak in his dog too!Originally posted by DavidN View Post
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Hypersloth, if you want to have a small 1/6 scale tank, there is a M5 US tank that was manufactured by 21st Century. It is 30 inches in length and 15 inches in width. I think it is still available on Ebay. Here is mine......Originally posted by hypersloth View PostWow, killer thread brother! Actually, if I ever get a 1/6 scale tank I think I would like this, those tigers get heavy at that scale! If not then maybe a Panzer III!
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Wow, killer thread brother! Actually, if I ever get a 1/6 scale tank I think I would like this, those tigers get heavy at that scale! If not then maybe a Panzer III!
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Haven’t picked. Whichever makes the strongest upper hull with external stores.
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You’re on the right track! I may glue some magnets to keep them together.
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I see what you meant. I think I will just wait until the end to decide on that area. Thank you!
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Bd4 is the shaft for shock absorbers. I think he wanted the shaft portions removed so that the associated torsion bars are free to twist. He probably just glued it onto the suspension arm. I made the cut he wanted, but then drilled a small hole in the remaining part and attached a thinner rod. The rod fits into the shock absorber case and moves up and down with the suspension.
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Working slowly on the chassis. You were right Bob. The application of the glue on the wheels and idlers was quite a task. Too much glue, the wheel got stuck. Too little glue, the wheel detached. Bob, the 35RC's instruction stated that in step 2, I need to cut the part Bd4 but did not show what to do with them. Do you know? Thank you!
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I finally were able to connect the track links together yesterday. So difficult with 2 un-flexable left fingers. Also luckily I did not glue the sprockets together as the two inner and outer teeth are not aligned. I put the track on the sprocket to ensure that they are fitted before gluing the 2 parts of the sprocket together. Hope to have more times this weekend to catch up with Bob :-)
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Nice work Bob! My fingers are getting better. I will finish the work on my Tiger I first and return to this project. I will test on the flexibility of my fingers by start putting the track links together tomorrow.
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Just tested the turret rotation and gun elevation functions. All works fine, the Spektrum receiver pairs nicely with the MTC. Once I attach the hundreds of tiny parts to the superstructure, I can start on the turret, auto-cannon and machine gun assembly which is WHY I BOUGHT THIS IN THE FIRST PLACE! LOL
Being a 4 channel system, the cannon and mg are activated by quickly flipping the right stick up or down respectively. Engine and gun sounds are automatic, although they can be switched off by dip switch.
Speaking of sound, think this speaker will be enough? Sheesh! Can you say boom-box? This monster is why a bunch of rear internal detail has to be removed, to fit this in.
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Something to consider...
There is an important difference between the static kit and this r/c conversion. There needs to be access to the interior in the latter. This requires building the superstructure in one unit that just press fits onto the chassis. For instance the fenders have to be attached to the top, not to the sides of the hull.
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