Heng Long TK-6.0(s) (and other) outputs
Hi folks,
I've been pondering several upgrades to some of of my tanks, varying from extra lights to other "gimmicks", and I figured it would be prudent to figure out what the various sockets are putting out.
I started with the TK-6.0S in my Sherman/Firefly for starters, because I've got that one opened up on the workbench.
Just used my old multimeter and ran the functions while taking readings. Some results may not be all that precise, as my multimeter is old and thus slow. Some things only gave short outputs and I had to test multiple times (like LED1) and I noted the highest output from those multiple results. When I get back to work I will grab my work multimeter and get better results.
Heng Long TK-6.OS outputs. Base Voltage; 7.6Volts from a 2S LiPo
Now, There is always a chance I missed some things or misinterpreted some results. But feel free to enlighten me and make this list more accurate. As soon as I start working on my Leopard or Panzer IV I will interrogate the TK-7.0 in those.
TTFN,
Rob
I've been pondering several upgrades to some of of my tanks, varying from extra lights to other "gimmicks", and I figured it would be prudent to figure out what the various sockets are putting out.
I started with the TK-6.0S in my Sherman/Firefly for starters, because I've got that one opened up on the workbench.
Just used my old multimeter and ran the functions while taking readings. Some results may not be all that precise, as my multimeter is old and thus slow. Some things only gave short outputs and I had to test multiple times (like LED1) and I noted the highest output from those multiple results. When I get back to work I will grab my work multimeter and get better results.
Heng Long TK-6.OS outputs. Base Voltage; 7.6Volts from a 2S LiPo
- CN2 - Radiator Fan - 7.5 Volts. On with Main Switch - When Main Switch is turned Off the voltage drops to 3.5 Volts and after over a period of a minute drops to 0 Volts
- CN3 - Turret Turning - 5.8 Volts. O Volts until you work the stick to turn the turret. Polarity depends on the direction.
- CN4 - Cannon Lifting - 5.8 Volts. 0 Volts until you work the stick to lower or raise the gun. Polarity depends on the direction.
- CN5 - WiFi power - 5.9 Volts. Standard set to O Volts, switchable from the remote (Button [G] + [S])
- CN6 - TRigger - Normal Open contact used by the BB gun.
- CN10 - BB Launch System - 7 Volts output on triggering the BB Gun
- CN11 - Heating Wire (Smoker Unit) - 5.8 Volts. On with Button [S]
- CN12 - Smoke Generator (Smoker Fan) - 3.5 Volts ramping up to 5.8 Volts, directly proportional with the throttle.
- CN15 - Infrared Emitter - 1.3 Volts on shot.
- CN16 - Infrared Receiver - 3.2 Volts out from leads marked + (positive) and - (negative)
- LED1 - Launch Flashing Light - 5.3 Volts when the BB gun fires to facilitate "Muzzle Flash" (Not sure about the internal programming or triggering sequence tho. Can someone enlighten me?)
- LED2 - Aiming Light - 5.3 Volts when using the BB trigger on the remote.
- LED3 - Taillights - 5.3 Volts
- LED4 - Headlights - 5.3 Volts
- LED5 - Machine Gun flashing light - 1.2 to 2.0 Volts. intermittent output to facilitate the "flashing"
- LED6 - Brake lights - 3.2 Volts. A 1.5 second output when the tank stops after moving forwards or backwards
- LED7 - Left Signal - 3.2 Volts. Intermittent "blinking" output on Left Turn
- LED8 - Right Signal - 3.2 Volts. Intermittent "blinking" output on Right Turn
Now, There is always a chance I missed some things or misinterpreted some results. But feel free to enlighten me and make this list more accurate. As soon as I start working on my Leopard or Panzer IV I will interrogate the TK-7.0 in those.
TTFN,
Rob
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