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Don't you hate those underside switches?

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  • Don't you hate those underside switches?

    Trying to find the on/off switch on the bottom of my tanks without turning them over is very...um..."trying"! On the 6.0 and up boards the on/off switch is in a low current circuit, not like earlier ones that ran the battery power through them.

    There had to be a better way. I found some push on/push off switches (not momentary) on Amazon that might fit the bill:

    mxuteuk 50pcs Black Self-Lock Micro Push Button Switch DC 30V 1A for DIY SMD Flashlight Type Light Lamp Wall Outlet Latching Mini ON/Off Switch BK-1208

    50 of them for $10!

    I'm going to try them. They need a 7mm hole. 1/4" is just a hair too small, but can be reamed out for them to fit. I'll probably find spots on the backside of my tanks, somewhere I can reach but isn't very noticeable. The only concern I have is that they have to be glued on from inside. I've used CA to attach one on a test part, a spare Sherman hull. If the glue holds up to repeated presses, this could be a fix!

    Click image for larger version

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    One installed & one next to it.
    Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

  • #2
    That actually looks very nice. The scale modeller in me wants to remove one of the fuel filler caps and put it right there, with the cap on top. How much travel do they need to work? Also; to make sure it stays put you could glue/weld a strip of ABS under it, possibly a piece of an old HL sprue. Then it won't ever move.

    Edit; found them on AliEpress for those of us who get killed by Amazon shipping fees... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002505363957.html
    Sherman M4A3 105mm Houwitser / Sherman Firefly IC *under construction* / Panzer IV *awaiting side-grade from TK7.0S to TK6.0S* / Stug III / King Tiger / KV-1 *awaiting upgrade to TK6.0S* / Tiger I / T34-85 / Leopard 2A6 *waiting upgrade to TK7.0*... No, I do not have a problem....

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    • #3
      Tamiya ps newer tanks have a momentary push on off bottom like that. Rubicon has mounted them in hidden places and uses an antenna he removes and pushes on the switch or a pin clipped to xmiter.

      all my tanks have IBUs or other after market boards that run battery power dir3ct through a switch. Most I have moved to accessible locations under hatches or in the upper rear under the overhand of the hull. Though I still have a couple with the bottom switch, I know where to find them when I pick them up but once, I drove over a rock and turned my tank off lol. Awkward moment in battle.
      RC tank parts and accessories I make
      www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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      • #4
        So far, so good...I've clicked the test switch dozens of times, while watching TV. Clicking didn't really impress my wife, but I thought it was important. 😉 There's no guarantee that the glue might fail on the hundredth press, but that's why they make glue in big bottles, and why I bring tools and more than one tank to a battle! I've installed them in a T-34, M41 and a Sturmgeschutz III so far. Again, make sure there is a good glue connection - flat, smooth and clean surface.

        I may have to put the switch on my Zik-20 on an upper surface. The rear is curved. If so, I'll heed Rob1970's thought and put it somewhere that makes it look like a real feature. Rob, if you haven't already seen it, here is a dimension diagram. The button (4.4mm) needs to be pressed nearly flush, slightly less than 2mm to activate.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	Button 02.jpg Views:	0 Size:	27.9 KB ID:	328821

        PS; apropos of Rich's post, for HL a non-momentary switch is necessary. They're commonly called "latching" online.
        Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
          So far, so good...I've clicked the test switch dozens of times, while watching TV. Clicking didn't really impress my wife, but I thought it was important. 😉 There's no guarantee that the glue might fail on the hundredth press, but that's why they make glue in big bottles, and why I bring tools and more than one tank to a battle! I've installed them in a T-34, M41 and a Sturmgeschutz III so far. Again, make sure there is a good glue connection - flat, smooth and clean surface.

          I may have to put the switch on my Zik-20 on an upper surface. The rear is curved. If so, I'll heed Rob1970's thought and put it somewhere that makes it look like a real feature. Rob, if you haven't already seen it, here is a dimension diagram. The button (4.4mm) needs to be pressed nearly flush, slightly less than 2mm to activate.

          Click image for larger version Name:	Button 02.jpg Views:	0 Size:	27.9 KB ID:	328821

          PS; apropos of Rich's post, for HL a non-momentary switch is necessary. They're commonly called "latching" online.
          Just an FYI of caution: Bob watch for overheating of the switch especially when you put the tank under loads like turning in soft materials. HL switches have gotten very hot for me and several have burned up. All be it these were used with 9.6v batteries and 390 motors.

          I am interested in what results you end up having with these switches as time goes on. They look good and seem easy to hide is easier to access locations.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

            Just an FYI of caution: Bob watch for overheating of the switch especially when you put the tank under loads like turning in soft materials. HL switches have gotten very hot for me and several have burned up. All be it these were used with 9.6v batteries and 390 motors.

            I am interested in what results you end up having with these switches as time goes on. They look good and seem easy to hide is easier to access locations.
            Yeah, I'll be watching. They're rated at 30V @ 1A, which could translate to ~4A at stock 7.2V. I just put one in a metal tracked Tiger 2. That'll be my "rubicon", so to speak! 😀
            Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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            • #7
              I was asked recently how my “switch switch” has been working out. The answer is fine. I use them on my Heng Long boards in place of the slide switch undersides. I place them in the back, somewhere not readily visible. These are click once for on, click once for off. I’ve always planned to paint them to make them even less apparent, but it seems I never get around to it.

              The on/off circuit on the 6.0 & 6.1 boards do not carry power current, it is a relay. I don’t know if this is true for other board brands, but if the wire is thinner than the motor or battery leads, it probably is. Also, the momentary click activates the HL board. I don’t know whether it would with other boards.

              I don’t use them on all my tanks. Something’s there is a clearance issue, or a lack of a flat surface to place them. I drill a hole making sure it’s a tight fit, and superglue the switch on. So far I haven’t had any break the glue join when I use them.

              Click image for larger version

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              Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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              • #8
                Nice but I don’t have a problem with the underside switches. The ones under hatches where the turret needs to be turned on the other hand..

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                • #9
                  Most of my panzers and Shermans have accessories and side skirts. They also have metal running gears installed. They are quite heavy. I need this feature on them. I will order and put them on. Thank you!

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                  • #10
                    My tanks and I thank you so much Bob! So easy to install and so nice not to turn the tank over.

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                    • #11
                      Bob! I added some more modifications on my Panzer III. Not only that I put the on/off button at the rear of the tank (blue outline), I replaced the screw connections to open the upper hull with magnets (green outlines). I also cut off the "wall" separating battery compartment (yellow outline). And now the board and the speaker are set nicely in that spot. I can easily open up the tank and hook the battery in (purple outline).

                      With this modification, there really is no need for me to turn the tank over :-) The nice thing is that the stock battery compartment for the Panzer III was really tight. Before, it was hard to put the battery and screw the cover in at the same time. Before, the space in whole compartment of the lower hull was also quite small. The wires and the board sometimes got in the way of the turret rotation mechanism. I experienced many turret rotations "stucks" while battling. Now.... no more :-)

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by DavidN View Post
                        Bob! I added some more modifications on my Panzer III. Not only that I put the on/off button at the rear of the tank (blue outline), I replaced the screw connections to open the upper hull with magnets (green outlines). I also cut off the "wall" separating battery compartment (yellow outline). And now the board and the speaker are set nicely in that spot. I can easily open up the tank and hook the battery in (purple outline).

                        With this modification, there really is no need for me to turn the tank over :-) The nice thing is that the stock battery compartment for the Panzer III was really tight. Before, it was hard to put the battery and screw the cover in at the same time. Before, the space in whole compartment of the lower hull was also quite small. The wires and the board sometimes got in the way of the turret rotation mechanism. I experienced many turret rotations "stucks" while battling. Now.... no more :-)

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                        If you do not plan to ever use the airsoft feature then cut the gearbox off the bottom of the main gun breach. This will give you all the clearance you need and you turret will no long get stuck.


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                        • #13
                          Yes I do.............Click image for larger version

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