Can anyone tell me if the Taigen T-34 has barrel recoil? Taigen says no, but I have seen video's with.
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Taigen T-34
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Zip, my version is the BB, but if you do get this from Taigen/Torro, do note that you will want to do a few things to make her run better and last longer. Of all the Taigen/Torro I have, this one has one of the weakest designs in the lower hull IMHO, not directly the lower hull but the "swing-arm" implementation where they are mounted through the 2 side plastic pieces which bear the stress, so when the wheels are under compression, that forces the side plastic pieces to separate ever so slightly from the metal tub (only attached with screws and some areas are thru the suspension/spring towers).
This flex alone can be eliminated by epoxy, and BTW, the factory doesn't sell the 2 side plastic pieces alone, if broken, they sell the complete lower hull with gearbox. Once you have the side pieces securely mounted to the tub, then you need to change out the washers to larger ones (I think #4) to fit at the back of the swing-arm to the plastic side, though you would need to grind the back of the swing-arm to remove the "key" casted in for smaller washers.
Once this is done, she runs like a champ.
EDIT: BTW, since the swing-arms are mounted to plastic boss (some may be cracked when new from factory), I sleeved all of mine with aluminum tubing (epoxy/glue) to keep them from splitting since the swing arms are mounted with a tapping screw. Some people went with a machine screw+washer+nut though.
p.s. should have listened to Rubicon and bought the HL.
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Originally posted by Zippersnapper View PostThis is the Vid that I saw to suggest the Taigen T34 had barrel recoil...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycfxHmRNoOA&t=210s
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Originally posted by sclui56 View PostCouple pix to help visualize
I documented it here in 2022 as I've done this procedure to my SU-122, SU-100, T-34/85, T-34/76 1942, and T-34/76 1943 builds: https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/foru...p?f=23&t=33059
All of them are on Taigen T34 chassis.
I've also started building the speaker enclosure so that it spans the hull and therefore gives it some extra bracing. I used some 4mm ABS I ordered for a different project, but it's nice because it can easily support the weight of the Visaton speaker.
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Looking back at the various notes I have on the Taigen T34 chassis, one of the more comprehensive posts for the remedy came from Tank_me from rctankwarfare, thank you! Also appreciate sharing the use of a speaker box as an additional brace.
Zip, while this chassis will require some work, but once modified, she is a solid runner, so don't let the shortcomings put you off.
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Originally posted by sclui56 View PostLooking back at the various notes I have on the Taigen T34 chassis, one of the more comprehensive posts for the remedy came from Tank_me from rctankwarfare, thank you! Also appreciate sharing the use of a speaker box as an additional brace.
Zip, while this chassis will require some work, but once modified, she is a solid runner, so don't let the shortcomings put you off.
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Originally posted by tank_me View Post
I started epoxying the chassis together, filling the final drive area with Miliput, removing the metal tab from the suspension arm, and adding the #6 washer to the hull when I started my T34/76 build back in 2018. I saw the same issues with the chassis flexing when the suspension flexed. I also don't like plastic on metal contact. I'd rather it be metal on metal. I had considered sleaving the plastic boss on the inside like that, but to this point I haven't had any issues with them pulling out.
I documented it here in 2022 as I've done this procedure to my SU-122, SU-100, T-34/85, T-34/76 1942, and T-34/76 1943 builds: https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/foru...p?f=23&t=33059
All of them are on Taigen T34 chassis.
I've also started building the speaker enclosure so that it spans the hull and therefore gives it some extra bracing. I used some 4mm ABS I ordered for a different project, but it's nice because it can easily support the weight of the Visaton speaker.
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After much debate, I opted for the Henglong T34. Primary reason was price, Henglong quality, and it checked all the boxes: 1. Metal tracks 2.Metal road wheels 3.Metal drive sprocket 4. Metal Idler 5. Steel gearbox 6.Metal barrel and most importantly, Barrel Recoil. Added bonus, TK7.0 MFU, Driver hatch on/off switch and something that I have never seen on any Henglong tank-XT60 Battery connector. I scored this one off of Amazon from Toucan (of course)...at a price that was waaaaay cheaper than from Fleabay or anyone else for that matter. I dont even think Godfrey would have cut me the same deal. Uncle Night shift's personal favorite 4BO showed up in the mail...from Poland. Can't wait to spray it....One last thank you to all who offered support for the Taigen. It meant allot..
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I owned a taigen v2, I think they are on a v3 chassis now but really, Ive seen Rubicon99s two T34s that are henglong just tear up the field and I actually borrowed one at an LA battle last year. I took two tanks and both died so I clumsily battled his henglong. It fought very well for my inability to drive henglong style sticks.... I came from RC warships, I drive on the left and fight on the right and trying HL style I am uncoordinated. But his T34 was a good battler and I have seen him tear it up and keep on going. They are now way better tanks than they used to be when they were pre 6.0 variants. I think the HL was an excellent choice based on what I have seen.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
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