I like many others bought a Pershing recently and I couldn't resist when the prices on them fell. I picked up a full metal version (tracks, sprockets, idlers, road wheels, suspension arms, and steel gearboxes). When it arrived I had already found a good deal and purchased a HL CNC'd enclosed 1/39 (slow) ratio high/low gearbox set. First thing I did was disassemble the tank and magnetize the upper/lower hull followed by the upper/lower turret. After that I cut out the battery box, sealed up all the crannies where resin could escape with hot glue, and poured clear resin (about 6oz) in the bottom to sure up the battery box removal. Once the resin dried overnight, I then determined which gearbox bosses needed to be drilled out through the bottom of the tank since the new gearboxes screw in from the bottom. After drilling them out and test fitting the gearboxes, I removed any left over un-needed screw bosses to include the gearbox guide pins as they wouldn't be needed. I found some suitable washers in my stash and mounted the new gearboxes.
I also had a metal turret rotation gear and a metal rotation mechanism so I installed those. The metal rotation is quieter than the plastic one believe it or not and slightly faster. There is another version of the metal one where the motor is mounted perpendicular to the gears, but that one is much faster and suited for modern tanks.
I had a metal barrel of the proper length waiting on this build so I started the process of installing it. I had to cut the old barrel off and widen the mantlet opening to accept the barrel bushing. Some material had to be removed from the back of the mantlet to make room for the 3D printed servo recoil/elevation unit. I've installed this unit or one similar in quite a few of my tanks and they work well. While doing all of this I realized that HL had the pivot point of the gun all wonky so I have started the process of moving the pivot point of the gun to it's proper place. You can see in the pics the thin brass rod being used a place holder while I mock up the parts.
Continued...
I also had a metal turret rotation gear and a metal rotation mechanism so I installed those. The metal rotation is quieter than the plastic one believe it or not and slightly faster. There is another version of the metal one where the motor is mounted perpendicular to the gears, but that one is much faster and suited for modern tanks.
I had a metal barrel of the proper length waiting on this build so I started the process of installing it. I had to cut the old barrel off and widen the mantlet opening to accept the barrel bushing. Some material had to be removed from the back of the mantlet to make room for the 3D printed servo recoil/elevation unit. I've installed this unit or one similar in quite a few of my tanks and they work well. While doing all of this I realized that HL had the pivot point of the gun all wonky so I have started the process of moving the pivot point of the gun to it's proper place. You can see in the pics the thin brass rod being used a place holder while I mock up the parts.
Continued...
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