My M26 Pershing Build

[tank_me]

I like many others bought a Pershing recently and I couldn't resist when the prices on them fell. I picked up a full metal version (tracks, sprockets, idlers, road wheels, suspension arms, and steel gearboxes). When it arrived I had already found a good deal and purchased a HL CNC'd enclosed 1/39 (slow) ratio high/low gearbox set. First thing I did was disassemble the tank and magnetize the upper/lower hull followed by the upper/lower turret. After that I cut out the battery box, sealed up all the crannies where resin could escape with hot glue, and poured clear resin (about 6oz) in the bottom to sure up the battery box removal. Once the resin dried overnight, I then determined which gearbox bosses needed to be drilled out through the bottom of the tank since the new gearboxes screw in from the bottom. After drilling them out and test fitting the gearboxes, I removed any left over un-needed screw bosses to include the gearbox guide pins as they wouldn't be needed. I found some suitable washers in my stash and mounted the new gearboxes.

I also had a metal turret rotation gear and a metal rotation mechanism so I installed those. The metal rotation is quieter than the plastic one believe it or not and slightly faster. There is another version of the metal one where the motor is mounted perpendicular to the gears, but that one is much faster and suited for modern tanks.

I had a metal barrel of the proper length waiting on this build so I started the process of installing it. I had to cut the old barrel off and widen the mantlet opening to accept the barrel bushing. Some material had to be removed from the back of the mantlet to make room for the 3D printed servo recoil/elevation unit. I've installed this unit or one similar in quite a few of my tanks and they work well. While doing all of this I realized that HL had the pivot point of the gun all wonky so I have started the process of moving the pivot point of the gun to it's proper place. You can see in the pics the thin brass rod being used a place holder while I mock up the parts.

Continued...

[tank_me]

I've added some pics of the gearboxes installed and I started on some little detail work. I had the brass Schumo storage box handles from my Abrams project as the Bulldog, the Pershing and the Abrams all use the same ones. Andy from Special Ops Models makes them in resin so I will be ordering a few sets from him for my Bulldog and my Abrams as the Schumo sets have been sold out forever. The Schumo set is for a Pershing so it has 14 handles and the Abrams only needs 6. Andy's sets are of 8 so they work great for the Bulldog and there will be extras leftover if you buy them for an Abrams. I also got some periscope covers from Battlefield models and I have them just setting in place. They look a little too big so I'm gonna have to consult some Pershing pics before deciding to use them or make my own. I am going to be installing metal shocks on it once the slow boat from China makes landfall. The project will be controlled by a Clark TK-50S. Welp...that's all for now.

[ccarley]

I'm very interested to see (and hear) how this goes! Especially as I am also looking at the TK50 board...

Clay

[quitcherbitchen]

I see that you used Kevin's 3D print (RC TANKS AUSTRALIA) I used that in my Panzer III. It works good, but in my Pershing I used the Clark version and it was bolt on- no mods.

[tank_me]

Yes, it is Kevin's design as it is free to download and print. I like being able to print my own as I have shortened the nose of this one to be able to move the pivot point of the gun forward. Once that is to my satisfaction I will remove the old pivot point. I have one of these I adapted in my Taigen IS-2. I don't feel bad cutting and hacking on one I printed myself. I have the Clark version in my T-72 and KV-1E. I have the DGS version in my T-34/85.

[tank_me]

Got a few more items out of the way. The speaker box was built from some 1/4" ABS I had left over from my 1/6th Sturmtiger paintball tank project. Overkill? Yup, but it's also screwed to the body of the tank and being used to brace the sides of the tank. It's a very simple design with no sides as the sides of the hull become the sides of the box. The speaker screen is 3D printed from ABS.

Got the TK50, receiver, and battery mocked up into their locations to check interference issues. The turret rotation motor clears the speaker box also. The cut off pieces from making the speaker box were also used to make some simple braces held in with some M2 screws. One of them is going across the motors and the other across the front of the chassis. When the upper hull is mated to the lower it makes for a very stiff chassis. Mounted the volume control for the TK50 to the same location as the stock power switch under the driver's hatch.

Still waiting on the metal shocks. Just need to finish up the gun mount, servo mounts, and wire everything up before I can test it out.

[tank_me]

Finally had some time tonight to work on the turret and cast hull texture. A little 3M red glazing putty, some light sanding and bam...texture. Now that this is done I can start the process of detailing it up. Still needs a little clean up.

[761st]

Well done Tank! Are you removing the skirts?

[RichJohnson]

Thats how i do my sand cast texture. But you need to sand it further. Its too coarse right now. remember its sand cast, so it should vary a little and have some texture but that is way too much.

[tank_me]

Well done Tank! Are you removing the skirts?

I'm actually going to leave them on. Most of the pics I've seen of Pershings in the WW2 time frame had them on so I decided I was going to leave them. They aren't as fragile as the Tamiya side skirts being Heng Long so they should hold up just fine.

Thats how i do my sand cast texture. But you need to sand it further. Its too coarse right now. remember its sand cast, so it should vary a little and have some texture but that is way too much.

Yeah...I was probably going to sand it a little more. I hadn't let it dry fully before smoothing it so I stopped where I was, but the 3M glazing putty does dry really quick. I will definitely need to prime it before painting to fill it in some.

Derek