Have two tanks with steel treads,where can I get a spray that would give a realistic color .One tank is M1A2 the other is King Tiger
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I use this then drive through terrain for dirt and debris. After a few runs they start looking natural. I have rattle canned as well. Both work.
Birchwood Casey Brass Black Metal Finish
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As said Gun blue has worked very well for my tanks and is realistic. I've tried both the Brownells 44/40 and Oxpho-blue and I like the Oxpho-blue better. I've painted plastic and was happy with them and metal tracks but when I tried the blueing method I much prefer bluing the metal tracks over painting them.
Plastic tracks spray painted with Tamiya TS-1 Red Brown then highlighted with TS-38 Gunmetal and some light weathering with pigments.
This is Taigens Metal tracks painted black stock. I weathered with Pigments and scuffed them driving on my cement walkway.
These are blued/blackened using the Brownells Oxpho-blue that I like.
These are blued with Brownells 44/40 but I didn't like the reaction time, heat generated and uneven covering. They are also weathered with Mig pigments and the cleats sanded to show use.
these are done with Brownells Oxpho-blue my product of choice, and Mig pigments and some sanding to show use.
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I also use the Oxpho-Blue; super easy process with a gallon zip lock bag. I pour about 1/2 bottle in the bag, and put 1 track in there and get it all soaked up. Take it out, dry it off, do the other track. When done, they should be rinsed... I used WD-40 spray last time and they came out well. It's super easy to re-do them too if you ever need to.
Clay
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Originally posted by Jpaw33 View Post
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I just filled a Tupperware container with a bottle and rotated the track through it by hand for a while. Never took the track apart aside from taking it off the tank.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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To get the tracks darker I use super hot water and Dawn soap and scrub them with a chip brush then rinse them well in more hot water and I put down ca couple layers of saran wrap and brush the brush,more like scrub the Birchwood Casy product on. I pour the bluing liquid in a disposable cantainer as not to contaminate the liquid and pour what I need to finish the tracks
I usually can get 1 1/2 to 2 sets of tracks per bottom of bluing solution.
the key to this is to degrease the tracks and get the medal hot to get the solution to react to the metal on the tracks
Hope this helps
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Originally posted by RichJohnson View PostI just filled a Tupperware container with a bottle and rotated the track through it by hand for a while. Never took the track apart aside from taking it off the tank.
With the exception that I used Simple Green to clean and degrease the tracks first And after watching videos on how its done I used an old toothbrush when I was blackening it to get all up inside the tracks and in between cracks and creases after I soaked them and swirled them around. There's no need to use glass or a casserole dish as I've seen. Just a plastic bowl or old tupperware that your wife won't miss or you wouldn't want to eat out of again.
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Originally posted by Vaseline View PostTo get the tracks darker I use super hot water and Dawn soap and scrub them with a chip brush then rinse them well in more hot water and I put down ca couple layers of saran wrap and brush the brush,more like scrub the Birchwood Casy product on. I pour the bluing liquid in a disposable cantainer as not to contaminate the liquid and pour what I need to finish the tracks
I usually can get 1 1/2 to 2 sets of tracks per bottom of bluing solution.
the key to this is to degrease the tracks and get the medal hot to get the solution to react to the metal on the tracks
Hope this helps
I definitely agree with cleaning/degreasing the tracks first.
Another thing to consider about getting a darker black would be burnishing the tracks like is suggested when using these fluids on firearms to get a deeper finish. It depends on what you prefer brand new showroom floor tracks or something that has seen some action.
Chef
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Originally posted by MrChef View Post
Exactly what I did!
With the exception that I used Simple Green to clean and degrease the tracks first And after watching videos on how its done I used an old toothbrush when I was blackening it to get all up inside the tracks and in between cracks and creases after I soaked them and swirled them around. There's no need to use glass or a casserole dish as I've seen. Just a plastic bowl or old tupperware that your wife won't miss or you wouldn't want to eat out of again.
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Ok so I had a few extra minutes and thought I'd share some of my track links that can hopefully illustrate some of the coloring. Again I'm working on taking better pictures so don't kill me if these don't work well.
And if you have any questions about them please ask.
This is all of the spares I have floating around. All of my metal spare tracks are blued and or weathered in case I need to use them-
Left to right top to bottom:
1. T-32 Metal Blackened Oxphoblue
2. KV-1 Plastic Not painted
3.Panther G Metal Taigen Painted by them so their stock color
4. Panther G Metal HL Blackened 44/40
5.Panther G HL Plastic Not painted
6. Tiger I Metal Taigen New Painted
7. Tiger I Metal Taigen Older Painted
8.King Tiger Metal HL Oxphoblue
9. King Tiger Plastic HL Painted by me with Tamiya Spray TS-1 Red Brown & TS-38 Gunmetal.
Enjoy. I took some more pics if anyone requests more closeups.
Chef
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