Heng Long German Leopard 2A6 Professional Edition

[MrChef]

Went with the Mato metal tracks with the rubber pads. Had to glue the pads in place so they wouldn't keep coming out while making turns. Motion RC sent me a complete replacement set of metal tracks, but I want to fill in all the hollow sections on the inside before I install later. Note: Didn't have to replace drive sprocket or idler wheel to use Mato track. Tank really moves out with the red motors installed and upgraded the battery packs to home fabricated four cell ELB 5Ah battery packs.

Very cool thank you for sharing.

Chef

[Rubicon99]

Here's me digging this post up. I'm curious about your progress and experience with the Leopard? I'm curious how Motion ended up dealing with your track issue and if/how the Tamiya or Taigen tracks worked out for you and if or what else you needed to mod to use the replacement racks?sprockets? idlers, etc?

I'm considering the Leopard as my venture into a modern tank and really like and appreciate this informative post. As It looks I should just start with a plastic version maybe with the steel motors at the least and do my mods and upgrades separately.

Do the real Leopard tracks have rubber pads? If so does the Tamiya track have this feature? or is there another solid option?

How does the Leopard handle high speed running/bashing? I'd look to make this tank a fast yard runner since modern tanks look so good speeding around.

Thanks,

Chef

The Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks work perfectly on HL tanks (Leopard and Abrams) and are by far the best of all the Leopard 2 tracks available. They are a combination of nylon, rubber pads, steel pins, steel end connectors and are a fraction of the weight of other aftermarket metal/rubber padded tracks like Mato or DKLM. The weight is a big positive as it greatly reduces the power needs and torque loads on your motors and gearboxes.

Price wise the Tamiya tracks run about a $100 a set if purchased via the AAFTankmuseum.com web site.

[MrChef]

The Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks work perfectly on HL tanks (Leopard and Abrams) and are by far the best of all the Leopard 2 tracks available. They are a combination of nylon, rubber pads, steel pins, steel end connectors and are a fraction of the weight of other aftermarket metal/rubber padded tracks like Mato or DKLM. The weight is a big positive as it greatly reduces the power needs and torque loads on your motors and gearboxes.

Price wise the Tamiya tracks run about a $100 a set if purchased via the AAFTankmuseum.com web site.

Good points for the Tamiya tracks that I can appreciate. Which Sprockets/Idler do they work with/require? If I start with a plastic model as is suggested for the mods I'm looking to do I like to know what else I'd need. I know some stuff fits/works exactly from company to company and other stuff doesn't.

Thanks

[Rubicon99]

Good points for the Tamiya tracks that I can appreciate. Which Sprockets/Idler do they work with/require? If I start with a plastic model as is suggested for the mods I'm looking to do I like to know what else I'd need. I know some stuff fits/works exactly from company to company and other stuff doesn't.

Thanks

They work with the standard plastic or metal HL or Taigen Leopard 2 and Abrams sprockets (they can also work on the Challenger 2 metal sprockets but a small spacer must be added to the sprocket to widen the sprockets).

I would upgrade to metal sprockets when you get the chance. Try to get the newer version with center track guide retaining rings. Other then that, drive shaft supply bearings are a big plus. No real need to go with a metal idler if you are using Tamiya tracks as they will not tear up the idler wheel like other metal track can do (the contact to wheel side of the Tamiya tracks are all nylon).

How and where you drive the tank will dictate what else is needed. The harder you drive and the more challenging the terrain type you drive on will require additional modifications. For now though start off slow, no need to dump money into stuff you may have no need for.

[MaverickTank]

I have read numerous posts where the Heng Long metal tracks are described as ugly and unrealistic. That sparked my curiosity, so I compared my model to various photos and videos of a 2a6. To me, there isn't a significant difference. Anyone care to illuminate me as to what the deal is? Maybe I'm missing something..?

[Rubicon99]

I have read numerous posts where the Heng Long metal tracks are described as ugly and unrealistic. That sparked my curiosity, so I compared my model to various photos and videos of a 2a6. To me, there isn't a significant difference. Anyone care to illuminate me as to what the deal is? Maybe I'm missing something..?

Quality tracks are double pin. HL tracks are single pin. Double pin is more flexible and is made up of two individual solid pads and two individual end connectors to form one link.

HL uses a hallow molded pad and molded on end connector with one pin were there should be two. The inside of the pads is hallow were it should be solid. The hallow pad likes to work like little shovels and carries excessive amount of dirt sand mud up into and around the sprockets. This is called "packing the sprockets" it causes the track to ride off the sprockets aka "de-tracking" which is the tracks coming off or worse.

HL metal Leopard 2 tracks work well on hard pack dirt of solid surfaces but start to have the issues above when you drive in more fun and challenging terrain.

The very best aftermarket Leopard 2 track is made by Tamiyas for their Leopard 2. It is nylon links with rubber pads, steel dual pin and steel end connectors. It is lighter then the HL and other aftermarket tracks but equally strong and long lasting. Its light weight, slightly taller guide teeth and hard rubber vs soft rubber pads is what makes it so good when compared to other aftermarket tracks. Runs about $100 a set about the same as other aftermarket tracks. Oh and it is the most accurate looking of all the tracks, after all it is Tamiya and they are known for their quality models.

[keilau]

I have read numerous posts where the Heng Long metal tracks are described as ugly and unrealistic. That sparked my curiosity, so I compared my model to various photos and videos of a 2a6. To me, there isn't a significant difference. Anyone care to illuminate me as to what the deal is? Maybe I'm missing something..?

Other than being ugly and unrealistic both in static and running mode, the HL metal track is cheap and reasonably strong, durable. I use it on my 2005 HL snow leopard (US Army Pershing). Here are the hollows that packs dirt onto the sprocket. The HL metal track is quite heavy and the hollows were casted onto the track to reduce weight. The dirt packing is not a HL concern since HL states explicitly that their tanks were designed to run on smooth, indoor surface only.

My solution is to buy a 1"x1/8" hard rubber strip from Amazon and cut 300 plus small pieces to fill the dirt packing hollows. It works very well to avoid de-tracking. RichJohnson used 3D printing to make those small fillers and save a lot of cutting. I use CA glue to hold the rubber pieces in place. Some other forum members fill the hollow with silicone rubber and said it works very well too. However, the HL metal track with rubber filler still looks and runs unrealistically due to the single pin and open pin design.

For the HL German Leopard 2A6, I use the Tamiya nylon track. It is the cheapest overall, strong and worryfree of detracking.

[MaverickTank]

Thank you both for your explanations. I can see now where the hollowed cast track doesn't resemble the prototype. I will consider getting a set of Tamiya tracks for my Leopard.

[RichJohnson]

Actually, I had JVM make up 3d full pads for me based on the tamiya type track and assembled the entire track by hand for both pershing type track and leopard 1 track both for my tamiya leopards which use pershing based tamiya track.

When I did use the henglong track, I filled the back with black RTV, I believe Rubicon did that as well.

[keilau]

Thank you both for your explanations. I can see now where the hollowed cast track doesn't resemble the prototype. I will consider getting a set of Tamiya tracks for my Leopard.

@Robicon99 was the one who directed me to the Tamiya nylon track. He pointed out the problem of a single pin track and the dirt packing hollows. He alone deserves the credit. I just shared how I benefit from his advice.

[FullySemiAutomatic]

Whether you get the replacement metal track or not, per Rubicon99 the best track for the German Leopard 2A6 is the Tamiya track. Incidentally, it is also the cheapest aftermarket option if you order it from AAF Tank Museum PX.

http://shop.aaftankmuseum.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=9805944

I use it on my Leopard and never bookback.

That tank museum is closed permanently. Does their store still sell things?

[Rubicon99]

That tank museum is closed permanently. Does their store still sell things?

Sadly the store is closed too.

[MrChef]

Sadly the store is closed too.

So I guess the question would be, where can we source the Tamiya 56019 Leo nylon tracks now?

[Panzermechaniker]

Or Tamiya parts in general. AAF saved me a number of times when my Tamiyas needed parts as the Canadian distributor is totally useless but we can't use Tamiya USA. Seems unless you live in Germany getting Tamiya parts is going to be very hit and miss going forward

[Rubicon99]

So I guess the question would be, where can we source the Tamiya 56019 Leo nylon tracks now?

Tamiya USA or they are often found on EBay.

[FullySemiAutomatic]

Doesn't look like they have them currently.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/radio-control/tanks/

[Vintage Racer]

Just made these smoke discharger cap chains from a tiny necklace same size as the Tamiya Leopard 2 model. Turned out ok. Took a bit of time.

VR

[FullySemiAutomatic]

Just made these smoke discharger cap chains from a tiny necklace same size as the Tamiya Leopard 2 model. Turned out ok. Took a bit of time.

VR

That looks cool. Not sure if you saw, but the "caps" on the smoke dischargers should be black:

https://youtu.be/QMbSfHGCrGU?si=st40OxmaP5_e_J4V&t=92