This is the tank at hand (“https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1R527&psc=1”) it is a Tiger 1, extremely unrealistic, and the electronics seem terrible. I plan to fully “renovate” this rank to hobby grade, ripping out internals, redoing all of the electronics, sanding down poor decorations, and repainting it. The tank arrives in less than a week and I will post when it comes. For now I will be open to talking about the project and other tanks. Thank you for your time.
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It is NOT a Tiger 1. It is a hybrid of something that may be real or may be the manufacturer's creation.Originally posted by Quakinking1 View Post -
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The best you can do is to return the 1:18 scale Dollox tank to the seller. It is easy to do on Amazon. The seller commited fault by calling the tank a Tiger 1. Item is NOT as described. After getting the return QR code, just drop off your box at an Amazon site.
Stick with 1:16 scale for RC tank. You will find a lot more sources for all level of complexity and price level. In general, the Heng Long tank is pretty good in construction quality and fidelity to real tank model even at the lowest price level. You can get a Heng Long plastic toy grade version for around $150 and upgrade it to your heart's content.
If you like the Tiger 1, https://www.amazon.com/German-Contro...904010ad0&th=1 Toucan Hobby is a reliable seller. Good luck and enjoy.Comment
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Thank you for the help but this is something that I want to do, not that I don’t want to do. I intended to do this, thank you though.Originally posted by keilau View PostComment
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If you really want to go this route, there's really not a lot that needs to be done (or can be done) on the internals. The easy way to upgrade the electrics would be to purchase the Heng Long 7.0 TX/RX unit as a set from ebay. You really need a tank control module, not just 1 or 2 ESCs to control the drive motors. If you want better electronics, they are out there but they far exceed the price of this entire tank.
The Heng Long unit is nice and has options that can be tweaked to your liking. If you go that route, make sure what you order has the Tiger 1 sound set as the board comes with 2 built in sound sets only.
There's also that CanShuo board that has been discussed here, which may or may not fit inside that smaller chassis. The transmitter appears to be slightly smaller but it has some nice sound sets. From what I have seen, that costs a bit more than a 7.0 setup but it's not super expensive yet.
If you want to go further, you could go with a Clark board, and a separate TX/RX system pretty much of your choice at that point. The Clark is extremely customizable using the separately purchased programming remote and receiver (It's a Sony IR remote) but you're looking at a lot more cost here. I know there are other higher end options available as well but the cost and work involved would be excessive for the tank you are discussing in my opinion.
Something else to keep in mind with the tank you have ordered is the upgrade path. There really won't be any motor options, or gearbox options unless you could find some way to use some Heng Long gearboxes in there. The Heng Long boxes are not expensive but you can get replacements if you break them, upgrade to a steel geared unit (without clutch) and even upgrade the motors if you have the room. Again, assuming you can get them in there though in the first place.
So, what is your end goal?
ClayComment
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Thank you for all of the help. My end goal is to swap out the transmitter/receiver, upgrade motors, get a nice tank control unit, sand down strange decorations, repaint the tank, weather it, and to possibly ad an fpv system. My overall goal is to turn this tank into a fun little project that I can run for fun, and bash in a sense.Originally posted by ccarley View PostIf you really want to go this route, there's really not a lot that needs to be done (or can be done) on the internals. The easy way to upgrade the electrics would be to purchase the Heng Long 7.0 TX/RX unit as a set from ebay. You really need a tank control module, not just 1 or 2 ESCs to control the drive motors. If you want better electronics, they are out there but they far exceed the price of this entire tank.
The Heng Long unit is nice and has options that can be tweaked to your liking. If you go that route, make sure what you order has the Tiger 1 sound set as the board comes with 2 built in sound sets only.
There's also that CanShuo board that has been discussed here, which may or may not fit inside that smaller chassis. The transmitter appears to be slightly smaller but it has some nice sound sets. From what I have seen, that costs a bit more than a 7.0 setup but it's not super expensive yet.
If you want to go further, you could go with a Clark board, and a separate TX/RX system pretty much of your choice at that point. The Clark is extremely customizable using the separately purchased programming remote and receiver (It's a Sony IR remote) but you're looking at a lot more cost here. I know there are other higher end options available as well but the cost and work involved would be excessive for the tank you are discussing in my opinion.
Something else to keep in mind with the tank you have ordered is the upgrade path. There really won't be any motor options, or gearbox options unless you could find some way to use some Heng Long gearboxes in there. The Heng Long boxes are not expensive but you can get replacements if you break them, upgrade to a steel geared unit (without clutch) and even upgrade the motors if you have the room. Again, assuming you can get them in there though in the first place.
So, what is your end goal?
ClayComment
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You could turn that into a Kelly's Hero Tiger. Looks like its halfway there already.Comment
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By definition, a Kelly's Hero tank can be anything one wants it to be. Nothing needs to be done. Whether you can call it a hobby grade RC tank is another matter.Originally posted by Zippersnapper View PostComment
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There is a company called 35rctank as the name states it is meant for 1/35 tanks. It might be an option, the whole kit is a bit on the pricey side. It could theoretically work, you would have to take some measurements to see if the kit would be too small.
cheers
WadeComment
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great idea! I’ll look into this brand and get you an update, it might be a little to small though speaking of power. I’m going to running a few extra things. Also the tank will be here on the 8th!Originally posted by Rebellion13 View Post
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The tank came in, it is much better quality than expected. I ran it through really rough Terrain, as well as water, and thick mud. The only struggle I ever encountered was pine needles and the track occasionally coming off. The battery lasted me an hour with almost constant running. The turret almost rotated all the way around and up, the tank shoots really hard and can shoot about 100 feet. The tank itself is very durable and can withstand being accidentally dropped down on concrete, and being ran over Rc cars. It still hasn’t had anything break (knock on wood) or received a scratch. The tracks are made of rubber, about 65% of the tank is plastic, and the other 35% is metal. Overall I’ve had a pretty fun time using this tank and I will post an update in a few days. Thank you all for reading this.Comment
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Hello again,
I'm answering to your question from your new thread:
Your only chance is, beside discovering a trim function in the user manual, to open the vehicle up and grease/oil the whole drivetrain parts.
Checking the wire connections thorougly comes to mind as well.
Also check for an equal track tension.
Good luck with your courageous project approach!
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I started my tanker career many moons ago with an "upper toy grade tank" as well.
Couldn't afford any hobby grade tanks at that time.
Not even the HL tanks, which where really cheap before they upped their game, quality wise.
Track wash :)
Long story short.
I got a lot of fun out of this tank, because my main goal was to test and try my camera equipment.
Even a toy tank wil teach you how to get great photos or video scenes.
Get a real hobby grade tank once you are done with your experiment!
CCCComment
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Thank you for the suggestions. I’ll look into greasing it up with white lithium, Also that is a very nice photoshoot.Originally posted by cpt.chaos canada View PostHello again,
I'm answering to your question from your new thread:
Your only chance is, beside discovering a trim function in the user manual, to open the vehicle up and grease/oil the whole drivetrain parts.
Checking the wire connections thorougly comes to mind as well.
Also check for an equal track tension.
Good luck with your courageous project approach!
===============
I started my tanker career many moons ago with an "upper toy grade tank" as well.
Couldn't afford any hobby grade tanks at that time.
Not even the HL tanks, which where really cheap before they upped their game, quality wise.
Track wash :)
Long story short.
I got a lot of fun out of this tank, because my main goal was to test and try my camera equipment.
Even a toy tank wil teach you how to get great photos or video scenes.
Get a real hobby grade tank once you are done with your experiment!
CCC
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After 10 uses I’m proud to say the tank is really withstanding tests. The overall functionality, capability, and firepower of this tank is outstanding. That being said it still has flaws, the tracks slide off on carpet, pine needs get stuck in the tracks, and the smoke machine takes some finagling.Originally posted by Quakinking1 View PostComment
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Okay, good to hear so far.Originally posted by Quakinking1 View Post
The smoke unit is most likely the same principal as others.
Most common mistake is overfilling the unit, because it's not working or you think its not enough.
Could also be blocked from the factory.
You need to open it, usually it has a top lid, and see if the cotton ball is soaked(too much) or slightly displaced in a way that it would block the exhaust tubes.
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Carpet is as bad as grass for RC tanks!
Too much resistance when you turn or even worse try to spin on the spot.
The tracks need to be able to slide sideways on the ground.
You can see that when you turn them in sand or snow.
It is pushing the surface material to the sides.
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Since you have rubber tracks, I asume the needles are gathering in the sprocket wheels and blocking them?
That is an old WW2 infantery trick to stop a tank from moving.
They tried to stick big branch stumps in the sprocket wheels.
Unfortunately small objects can do that to the RC tanks as well.
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... and thanks for the compliment on the pics.
Here is another purpose for a "non hobby grade tank":
Do something funny with it.
CCCComment
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Thanks for the information! Now I know it isn’t a defect and I will not be as bothered by the smoke machine, and I will check the cotton ball. I guess I’m luck because it’s still cold where I am so the grass is thin and short. I know it isn’t a problem with the tank, but do you know of any ways to keep the tracks from falling off, or how to tighten them? Only reason why is because I do simulated battles in my room.Originally posted by cpt.chaos canada View Post
Okay, good to hear so far.
The smoke unit is most likely the same principal as others.
Most common mistake is overfilling the unit, because it's not working or you think its not enough.
Could also be blocked from the factory.
You need to open it, usually it has a top lid, and see if the cotton ball is soaked(too much) or slightly displaced in a way that it would block the exhaust tubes.
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Carpet is as bad as grass for RC tanks!
Too much resistance when you turn or even worse try to spin on the spot.
The tracks need to be able to slide sideways on the ground.
You can see that when you turn them in sand or snow.
It is pushing the surface material to the sides.
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Since you have rubber tracks, I asume the needles are gathering in the sprocket wheels and blocking them?
That is an old WW2 infantery trick to stop a tank from moving.
They tried to stick big branch stumps in the sprocket wheels.
Unfortunately small objects can do that to the RC tanks as well.
====
... and thanks for the compliment on the pics.
Here is another purpose for a "non hobby grade tank":
Do something funny with it.
CCCComment
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The "smoker" on this tank is different than on the Heng Long units; it uses water and I believe one of those piezo devices to create a smoke effect (which, when working, does look good and it's nice that it uses water). The Heng Long unit uses the special smoke fluid, in a tank with the gauze and a heating element. I think about all you can do with this situation is make sure power is getting to the smoke generating unit, and if it is then the unit has possibly failed. On our set, we also had a cracked water tank which caused the water to leak out quickly thus reducing the "smoker" time.
With the tracks, I think all you can do is make sure all the idlers are screwed on correctly, and the sprocket is tightened correctly. I don't recall seeing any adjustment on the track tension, and you can't really "take a link out" like on the Heng Long tanks either. Avoiding super spin helps keep the tracks on though...
ClayComment
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Thank you for the information on the smoker, and yes it does use water. I have checked the idlers wheels and sprockets no problems there, I’m going to check the gearbox soon though.Originally posted by ccarley View PostComment
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