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Russian T34-85 Heng Long tank review

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  • Russian T34-85 Heng Long tank review

    The tank came packed very well with no damage. As usual, The graphic art on the box looks great and shows off the product well. I really wanted this tank based on the new 7.0 board and radio. The smoke unit has also seen a recent upgrade. The outer packing box comes with a new decal, that says, Professional Edition. It mentions the included metal parts. One customer has already been confused by this. He assumed it also includes metal “road wheels” based on the shown list, and it does not include that. Those, will only come on "certain" Professional Edition Tanks. Let’s go over a few things pertaining to my inspection so far. Instructions are clear. I like the fact, for RC newbies there was a tiny paper insert with instructions and a diagram, tucked under the small hatch, on front of the tank. Saying, ON/OFF switch is located here! Next, I remember several customers making tickets on this tank, that the machine gun barrel was missing. I found mine right away. But it is just placed into the box of accessory parts, “loosely” and could easily be overlooked. It 2X15mm, black and round. It should be placed in a bag like some of the other items came packaged. Also, I really think, when using the small clear bags to pack items in, then place them into a white foam crate, they should be colored. I almost overlooked the metal caps for my wheels. They were buried deep into a recess in the foam coffin. Ozzy called me the next day with a customer missing his. We had him look again, same situation and he found them. Next, I fired up the tank and got smoke for all of 5 seconds and it stopped. I also noticed the front LED light was covered over with paint. I cleaned off the paint and found a bright white LED. Soft white would be more appropriate for a WWII ERA tank. To remove the lid, you first have to take out 6 screws from the bottom side. First 4 are visible, other two, hidden above the tracksuit the rear. While removing the tracts, I came across one idler wheel that would not rotate smoothly. I removed the screw from the wheel to pull it off and the inner bearing just feel apart. I have a new set on order and will need to replace it before I can run the tank. Easy fix and $6 off ebay. I successfully removed the lid to get to the smoke unit. It would turn off and on from the remote, the fan spooled up. But no smoke. It was extremely hot to the touch, almost burning. I removed the 4 screws holding down the small lid on the smoke fluid reservoir box, and lifted it off. The nichrome wire was not broken. What I did find was, the cotton ball used to soak up the smoke fluid and deliver it up to the wick material, surrounding the wire, was shifted to the wrong side. This created a few issues. One, no fluid reaching the wick material. Second, it blocked the hole in the side of the box, where the fan blows the air in. Three, no airflow causes the unit to overheat. The fan does two things. Blows the smoke out the exhaust tubes, but also cools the heating element. This is why it was so hot. No air flow though the box. Results? NO SMOKE! These new units are superior to the old pump ones. But they will still require careful assembly to work correctly. One step back, Heng long has taken on the new TK7.0, is it only has two tank sound profiles. In the older 6.0, there was at least 5 including a turbine for the Abrams tank. Not sure why this decision was made by them. Customers have already complained about this change. I also understand a more powerful 3 watt, 4 Ohm amplifier was installed. One thing Heng Long has become a master at, it is, the snap together construction! Kudos to them. It is always a joy to assemble one of their tanks. The plastic parts go together nicely. In most instances, glue is not needed. I do recommend gluing smaller detail parts that could get lost in an outdoor environment. I will not need to same much on the performance or operations of the tank. That part is very similar between each tank. In the case of the T-34, it performs as expected and looks great.



    Attached Files

  • #2
    Here is a short video I made. New new smoke unit works great. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozHTv--CRXg

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    • #3
      Of course, I had to do a "Winter Camo" on the T-34 just for fun!
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        I have some serious complaints about the HL T34-85 metal track design. See post #21 at this thread.
        https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...l-tracks/page2

        When I looked at the HL T34 plastic track closely, I found that it is not a single pin design, but a much worse open pin loop. The HL metal and Mato metal track are the same unrealistic open pin. It is unstable and traps dirt easily. The 4 spare links on the front of the T34 is even more an eye sore and I replaced them with realistic looking closed pin links from Torro too.
        Click image for larger version  Name:	pins_quality.jpg Views:	0 Size:	63.0 KB ID:	361022 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5103.jpg Views:	0 Size:	112.0 KB ID:	361023Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5104.jpg Views:	0 Size:	120.0 KB ID:	361024 ​​

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        • #5
          Originally posted by keilau View Post
          I have some serious complaints about the HL T34-85 metal track design. See post #21 at this thread.
          https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...l-tracks/page2

          When I looked at the HL T34 plastic track closely, I found that it is not a single pin design, but a much worse open pin loop. The HL metal and Mato metal track are the same unrealistic open pin. It is unstable and traps dirt easily. The 4 spare links on the front of the T34 is even more an eye sore and I replaced them with realistic looking closed pin links from Torro too.
          Click image for larger version Name:	pins_quality.jpg Views:	0 Size:	63.0 KB ID:	361022 Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_5103.jpg Views:	0 Size:	112.0 KB ID:	361023Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_5104.jpg Views:	0 Size:	120.0 KB ID:	361024 ​​
          I wonder why the open pin design seems so popular among manufacturers? Is it that much easier to produce and assemble open vs closed pin track links?

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          • #6
            Does it matter? The T-34 is my most trouble free tank of eight H-L tanks I have.

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            • #7
              Wish I could say the same. I'm down 3 suspension arms in a year. The design of having the axles as part of the suspension arm has been nothing but problems for me. My tigers and sherman on the other hand? Perfect not a single thing broken on them.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                Does it matter? The T-34 is my most trouble free tank of eight H-L tanks I have.
                It does to me. I came from a plastic modeling (static models) hobby. Making sure that the tank looks realistic is important to me. Just a personal choice.

                For some of the more recent era tanks, Heng Long use single pin design in their metal track. Yes, I agree that the design is robust and helps keep cost down. When Rubicon99 pointed out to me that it does not look natural when running, I replaced it with a Tamiya track on the Leopard 2A6. Just a personal choice.

                I keep the HL metal track on the M26 Pershing. I filled the track inside cavity with 300 some small rubber blocks. It is the fun of this hobby. Yes, the track ran ok without those rubber blocks. But the rubber blocks make it even better. Some forum member filled the cavity with silicon rubber.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by keilau View Post

                  It does to me. I came from a plastic modeling (static models) hobby. Making sure that the tank looks realistic is important to me. Just a personal choice.
                  I can respect this. There are certain things that I find important to be accurate. I also search for solutions for issues or inaccuracies. Other times I look the other way with different companies more often with Heng Long because they are one of the lowest cost companies that allow us to get into this hobby.

                  On the flip side of the static modeling there are plenty of models out there that aren't 100% accurate. I've seen plenty of good modelers comment and or make mods to upgrade, change and modify static models to be more accurate. Even the highest priced RC tanks can be inaccurate like Tamiya..Like you said to each his own. Some inaccuracies are bolder or bothersome to different people. Be glad you never got the Pantiger.

                  Originally posted by keilau View Post
                  I keep the HL metal track on the M26 Pershing. I filled the track inside cavity with 300 some small rubber blocks. It is the fun of this hobby. Yes, the track ran ok without those rubber blocks. But the rubber blocks make it even better. Some forum member filled the cavity with silicon rubber.
                  I've seen videos of people in less affluent neighborhoods in Asia taking used old bicycle tire inner-tubes and cutting them to fit the metal tracks. Kinda shocked me awake these people far away over there using rudimentary methods to provide us with toys. Albeit more accurate rubber pads on an RC tank.

                  Chef

                  P.S. Oh and I like my T-34/85...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Delta_19 View Post
                    Wish I could say the same. I'm down 3 suspension arms in a year. The design of having the axles as part of the suspension arm has been nothing but problems for me. My tigers and sherman on the other hand? Perfect not a single thing broken on them.
                    Don't have any issues with broken suspension arms on my Taigen T-34 lower hulls.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MrChef View Post
                      Originally posted by keilau View Post
                      I keep the HL metal track on the M26 Pershing. I filled the track inside cavity with 300 some small rubber blocks. It is the fun of this hobby. Yes, the track ran ok without those rubber blocks. But the rubber blocks make it even better. Some forum member filled the cavity with silicon rubber.​


                      I've seen videos of people in less affluent neighborhoods in Asia taking used old bicycle tire inner-tubes and cutting them to fit the metal tracks. Kinda shocked me awake these people far away over there using rudimentary methods to provide us with toys. Albeit more accurate rubber pads on an RC tank.

                      Chef

                      P.S. Oh and I like my T-34/85...
                      In the land of Amazon, I don't need to use inner tubes. I got a roll of Neoprene Rubber Sheet, (1" Wide x 1/8" Thick x 10' Long) from Amazon.
                      https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                      Cutting the small rubber blocks is not as easy. I tried scissors and shear cutter. They do not work because they compress the rubber. The pieces do not need to be precision cut, but I do want them to be reasonably uniform to fill the cavity. I cut them slightly undersized and let CA glue to fill the gap around them. I built a small jig using plywood and used fresh sharp zeto knife to do the cutting. It took 2 days. But I like the results for this very old 2005 HL tank.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by keilau View Post
                        In the land of Amazon, I don't need to use inner tubes. I got a roll of Neoprene Rubber Sheet, (1" Wide x 1/8" Thick x 10' Long) from Amazon.
                        https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                        Cutting the small rubber blocks is not as easy. I tried scissors and shear cutter. They do not work because they compress the rubber. The pieces do not need to be precision cut, but I do want them to be reasonably uniform to fill the cavity. I cut them slightly undersized and let CA glue to fill the gap around them. I built a small jig using plywood and used fresh sharp zeto knife to do the cutting. It took 2 days. But I like the results for this very



                        old 2005 HL tank.

                        I find laying out the pad dimensions in Corel, then sending the job to a laser cutter is quit easy. Done in about 10 minutes.

                        Glueing to each track, yea....a bit longer. The same way I plan on making the Stug III side armor....when I get around to it.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	20230210_175823.jpg Views:	0 Size:	238.3 KB ID:	369958

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post

                          I find laying out the pad dimensions in Corel, then sending the job to a laser cutter is quit easy. Done in about 10 minutes.

                          Glueing to each track, yea....a bit longer. The same way I plan on making the Stug III side armor....when I get around to it.

                          Click image for larger version Name:	20230210_175823.jpg Views:	0 Size:	238.3 KB ID:	369958
                          I bet it is a LOT easier for those who has a laser cutter. You are talking about Cadillac operation. Mine is a Yugo operation.

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                          • #14
                            I can only report Null problemo, Nada, Zip, Nothing about my two HL basic T34's.
                            Both are the new releases.

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                            CCC​​

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