Let's talk IR emitters

[ArmorBolt]

The 9mm set back is to help reduce the "shotgun" effect of the IR beam. It is only one way to achieve this, but also having just a small aperture open like on many* of the HL tanks is just as effective.

*Not all the HL tanks have a small IR aperture so these models will need to have a set back added when using HP bulbs.

At 20-30 ft you will not see any difference. The HL bulbs age quickly and get very weak whereas the HP bulbs have a quite a long usable lifespan so adding them is a win win regardless.

I have a HL T34. Should I convert it to HP bulb emitter, or stock is good enough.
BTW, what is a HP stand for, and where can I get them, and is it easy to install to the gun barrel as most of you guys do.

[Rubicon99]

I have a HL T34. Should I convert it to HP bulb emitter, or stock is good enough.
BTW, what is a HP stand for, and where can I get them, and is it easy to install to the gun barrel as most of you guys do.

HP= High Power

Do you need it? Only if you intend on battling at distances greater then 50 feet in bright sunlight.

The stock HL bulbs is actually pretty good when new, but they tend to loose performance as they age. This drop off in performance can be gradual or rapid.

There are a number of places to acquire HP bulbs. Everyone has their favorite place. This is where I buy mine from.

[ArmorBolt]

Ok, HP high power. Don't need it now, but maybe later date when HL stock goes bad. Thks.

[SoCalBobS]

You don't need it at the L.A. site, but all the guys you saw at San Diego had HP LED's. Using the HL bulbs there gives you a range disadvantage, but can be overcome with judicial use of cover until you get close. To place the build in the barrel, you'll need to route the wires down the barrel and through the airsoft gun. Doing that will require disabling and doing some surgery to the gun. Some tankers put the HL IR bulb in the stock IR mount so they can keep airsoft functionality. In either case you need 9mm from the tip of the bulb to the mouth of the barrel or mount. If it's in the original spot you'll need to attach a 9mm long brass tube in front of it to eliminate side emissions.

Plastic will not suffice to shield the IR. I put an HP IR bulb in my Challenger, in the box above the barrel. IR spilled out of the base of the build and through the plastic box. I was "friendly firing" a tank next to me. The ranges was minimal, 5' in the shade, but that shows how powerful the bulbs are. The HP bulbs are actually too powerful indoors. The light will reflect off everything!

[oldwolf]

Plastic will not suffice to shield the IR. I put an HP IR bulb in my Challenger, in the box above the barrel. IR spilled out of the base of the build and through the plastic box. I was "friendly firing" a tank next to me. The ranges was minimal, 5' in the shade, but that shows how powerful the bulbs are. The HP bulbs are actually too powerful indoors. The light will reflect off everything!

I have been plugging the back end of the metal tube I mount the LED in with a good size glob of blue tac. It seems to stop the IR and can be molded tight around the wires while still being removable if the LED later needs replacement.

[ArmorBolt]

You don't need it at the L.A. site, but all the guys you saw at San Diego had HP LED's. Using the HL bulbs there gives you a range disadvantage, but can be overcome with judicial use of cover until you get close. To place the build in the barrel, you'll need to route the wires down the barrel and through the airsoft gun. Doing that will require disabling and doing some surgery to the gun. Some tankers put the HL IR bulb in the stock IR mount so they can keep airsoft functionality. In either case you need 9mm from the tip of the bulb to the mouth of the barrel or mount. If it's in the original spot you'll need to attach a 9mm long brass tube in front of it to eliminate side emissions.

Plastic will not suffice to shield the IR. I put an HP IR bulb in my Challenger, in the box above the barrel. IR spilled out of the base of the build and through the plastic box. I was "friendly firing" a tank next to me. The ranges was minimal, 5' in the shade, but that shows how powerful the bulbs are. The HP bulbs are actually too powerful indoors. The light will reflect off everything!

Thanks Bob for the explanation. That's cleared to me now.

[LegoDEI]

I've found the color of the plastic matters a great deal; black works well but most other colors are all transparent to some degree. Also we got dedicated HL wire harnesses for the receivers now thanks to Saeree Tang Manisuta from the LA club =). If any of yall have specific improvements you'd like to see or things you'd like me to try changing on the receivers, send them my way! We're currently in the progress of designing model specific receiver mounts so they'll be easier to install on the hatches and won't force players to aim artificially high above the tank for hits.

[SoCalBobS]

LegoDEI is selling his Modular IR Target on Etsy. For a while it was absent. It's a great tool for checking range and aim when you replace or upgrade your IR LED bulbs. Put it 50' feet away then adjust your tank distance until you determine the range. Also good for checking beam spread.



My friend designed a 3D printed frame for it. It's on Thingiverse, called RC Tank Target Holder, #4841064. It's a free file, just don't start selling prints for profit.

[cleong]

Hello! I've chosen this to be my first post here and some guys may recognise the handle from other forums.

While it is not something I plan to install on my tanks, has anyone installed barrel smoke puffers and found that it affected IR range for them?

[Rubicon99]

Hello! I've chosen this to be my first post here and some guys may recognise the handle from other forums.

While it is not something I plan to install on my tanks, has anyone installed barrel smoke puffers and found that it affected IR range for them?

Short answer is yes, it does reduce range somewhat and it can induce a scattering effect (light bounce) similar to shooting at a white wall.

[RonV]

I'm just starting down the IR path. I've been looking at the LegoDEI on Etsy and I'm not sure what to purchase. I have HL Sherman, Pershing, and Bulldog all running 7.0 MCB. I live in SoCal and would like to participate in the LA and San Diego battle days. Should I purchase the 360 deg. or the 45 deg, and the red or the blue?

[quitcherbitchen]

Get the Heng Long Version of the 360 and red or blue is up to you.

[hooked on hobbies]

FYI-LegoDEI IR emitters for HL tanks will be available at Motion RC in about 2 weeks.

[Rubicon99]

I'm just starting down the IR path. I've been looking at the LegoDEI on Etsy and I'm not sure what to purchase. I have HL Sherman, Pershing, and Bulldog all running 7.0 MCB. I live in SoCal and would like to participate in the LA and San Diego battle days. Should I purchase the 360 deg. or the 45 deg, and the red or the blue?

Since you are just starting out purchase the 360 shaded version with red LEDs. The 360 shaded version is easier to install because it allows for a more "forgiving" orientation of the IR receiver/bulbs. .

When starting out in IR battling it is recommended that the IR receiver should be oriented so one of the four small "black" receiver bulbs is facing forward (aka the direction of the barrel). The black bulbs should not be confused with the much larger LEDs which are different. If installed correctly then later as you become more experienced in nuances of IR battling you can swap out the 360 shade for a 45 shade. Now there is no hard and fast rule (at California clubs) that the black bulbs must be oriented with one facing forward, but it tends to be a more "advanced player" set up to install them with the black bulbs at a 45 degree cross position to the front of the tank (thats a topic for another post should you want to know more).

Why red LEDs? Its because they scream "I AM HIT" better then blue LEDs and the majority of people while battling like the more visual effect of red. But if you want blue get it there is no rule of what color has to be used.