Actually the problem is not with the idler at all. Its with the frontal lower hull glacé where it meets the side of the forward hull. This section is weak and tears/splits in the plastic form.My T72/90 solution is simple, stupidly cheap and hugely effective at combating this issue.
With all respect,Henntec in my experience are simply garbage on anything modern that is fast, with metal tracks and that is driven hard (as these would be as loners) Henntec are great on slow moving underpowered WW2 tanks that are driven with care by an experienced person.
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Even the Heng Long ZTZ tanks will have the weak idler problems as the ZTZ is an elongated T-72 hull design. There are ways to replace the idlers with a Henntec or an RC Tank Legion adjustable idler assembly. The RC Tank Legion version has been sold out for like a year so the Henntec is pretty much the only option.
DerekLeave a comment:
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Many thanks for your response!. Yes! These are tanks that my sponsors will provide for those first time players. The tanks will be those RTR right our of the boxes. I won't put much accessories on them. The decals will be applied but I will leave the paint schemes alone. I just put the IR battle units on them. Then for battles, I will put color flags with numbers on them for the players to recognize their tanks. I need those durable tanks to last as long as possible and I will gradually pull out my own tanks.
The Abrams and T72/90s are all at the $200 price ranges. The IR battle unit is around $30. The Challenger somehow is only at $135. Is there an issue with the Challenger since I could get 3 Challengers for the price of 2 Abrams. Thank you!Leave a comment:
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T72s and t90s all break at the idler quickly. I’ve only seen Rubicon’s run and not break. Mine broke right away as have others I’ve seen. I have not done the mod to mine yet to strengthen the idler at its break because it’s just a loaner and I’m busy.Leave a comment:
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Assuming these are going to be loaned out tanks. If so stick with all Abrams for the western side. Simply paint them differently. Why all Abrams? Simple logistics in running hardware and tuning needs. The T72/90 uses the exact same run hardware so no logistically issues with those.
Now the T72/90 do have some issues (structural forward hull weaknesses and track alignment problems) all easily addressable. You will want to address them in order to make them good reliable hard use loaners.
As for the equally of battle the T72s will most likely be favored in overall capabilities especially if being used by new or first time players. Just a much simpler tank to dive do to its size and there is no turret bustle overhang when the turret is turned to the side. Best to leave the bustle rack off loaner Abrams because it will probably get ripping off. Ask me how I know....LoL
For the issues with the T72/90 PM and I can walk you through the problems and simple fixes.Leave a comment:
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You got USA, UK and Germany for the West. So, what about having the HL China T-99A and Russian T72 or 90 for the East side?Leave a comment:
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Modern HL tanks?
I would like to start a modern tank battle event for my club by summer. At this time, I would like some inputs from the experts in this forum about HL modern tanks, since I only play mostly WWII tanks. I need to build up to 10 HL tanks for each side of the battle. I don’t want to be political about this. So I will just call my event “Red against Blue”, according to the IR receivers from LegoDEI ( I might have 1 event in the early evening time). I might also call it “East vs. West.”
Well, for the East side, should I go with 5 T-72 tanks and 5 T-90 tanks?
For the West side: 4 Abrams, 3 Leopards and 3 Challengers?
Are my picks adequate? Will the battle be lopsided? Which ones of these will last the longest? Which type should I avoid? Any other that I should include in?
Any input is much appreciated! Thank you!
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