T-54 from RC 3D Tanks

[Barmonkey]

Hello all, I see that RC 3D Tanks has the files for the T-54 for free. I downloaded them and am thinking about printing and building it not only because it is free, but it looks to be a rather simple build. Otherwise I would pony up the twenty bucks and try the Hellcat.

Anyway, I am new to 3D printing. Started with the Bunny and then the Benchie Boat with my Creality Ender 3 S1. My first project is a scale model of a Rolls Royce Merlin engine. After printing some of the parts, I decided that some of the parts would be better with a 3D Resin printer. So now I have a Anycubic Photon Mono X2 resin printer LOL. I have the basics of using the Ender 3 S1, but the resin printer is kind of daunting to say the least.

I decided to try out printing a wheel, which is still in progress as I type this. It takes a whopping three hours for one wheel! Is this normal?

If anyone one has tips or tricks to building a 3D tank, please share your knowledge.

Also, If anyone is building the T-54 jump on in and share your progress. Group build anyone?

[Barmonkey]

First attempt using the Creality Slicer program...let it do its thing.

[Barmonkey]

Picture from Cults 3D

[tank_me]

I've built quite a few of Inkor's tanks. Inkor is the designer at RC 3D Tanks. On a slow printer, yeah things can take a long time. FDM printers take longer the more items you put on the bed. Resin printers print just as fast with one thing on the bed, or the whole bed covered. Luckily I have a fast Bambu printer or I would've given up on printing tanks a long time ago. I also have a resin printer, but I haven't even taken it out of the box yet. I have also downloaded the T-54, but it will be a long time before I start it. When starting out FDM printing you need to look at a lot of factors that will affect print time. Infill is one of the big ones. I think most of the parts from Inkor's tanks can handle as little as 30%. Some parts will require a higher one, but if you were like me in the beginning FDM printing I though 100% infill was needed on a lot of things and it really wasn't. For larger parts you can actually increase the line width some which will save time. On a 0.4mm nozzle I usually print a 0.5mm line width.

I've printed the majority of the Hellcat and actually have it running, but it seems I don't have any good pics of it at the moment.



Derek

[Barmonkey]

Thanks for the reply.

I plan to use the resin printer for the smaller parts so the detail will be much better than with the FDM.

The hull parts will be easy since they are just flat pieces.

I have started a second wheel now. This time using Prusa Slicer rather than the Creality program which is somewhat limited in features. Using the "organic" supports which are pretty cool looking. Makes the print look like some sort of alien tree LOL.

It will likely be better to print the wheels and tires separate though. My first attempt look OK but the supports between the tires is fused to the tires and difficult to remove.

I do have a question about printing turrets which should be universal no matter what turret. What type of supports or infill (probably not needed) would be appropriate?

[Sappo]

I'm currently 20 hrs into his m551 Sheridan, another free file. I use the latest cura with tree support and 70 mm speed selected. Have had no problems with it yet

[keilau]

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/t-54-rc_3d_tanks

[Barmonkey]

So what filament are you guys using?

I have been doing the wheel tests with regular PLA from Creality. The wheels appear to be really tough. I know that PETG is recommended since it has a higher temperature threshhold than PLA. Haven't used it before so I dont know how difficult it is to use compared to PLA.

I have a spool of PLA Pro (+) from Creality and am thinking about using it for the hull.

[Sappo]

There's a guy on YouTube goes by the moniker, built by wiklander I think who makes 1/16,1/10 tanks and he uses pla for his. I'm going to print my torsion bars from pla with 100% infil cause I'm not sure how they will go with only partial. I might have to splurge and buy some petg, only time will tell

[tank_me]

I have parts sold by a vendor made in PLA and they warped in the sun. PLA+, pro, or whatever other PLA blend does not fix the heat deformation of PLA. I printed my 1/10th Jagtiger in ASA trying to get an even higher heat resistance and half the parts warped upon cooling so I basically wasted 4 roles of ASA. I'm now printing it in PETG as the part dimensions are coming out much better in PETG. I would go with PETG. Print once...avoid the crying. Once you get your machine dialed in for PETG it's not any harder to print with than PLA, but PETG usually needs to be dried even right out of the package. Certain brands of PETG really suck...like Numakers. I'll never use any of their PETG or ASA again. I've had really nice results with Sunlu PETG and PETG-G.

[Barmonkey]

Nice looking model so far tank_me. I assume that is made with the Sunlu PETG? and Do you use a dryer for the PETG?

Going to do some more research on PETG, but the Sunlu brand seems to be a good product from what I have read.

I have printed the left side and working on bulkeads with the PLA for now. The first part is usable but could have been better so I bumped up the heat 5 degrees. The second part is better. My first part did warp, but I may have twisted it when I pulled it off the build plate. I just gently bent it by hand and appears to be holding flat for now.

I did do some soul searching and after some deliberation, decided to buy another printer. The Elegoo Neptune 4 is on the way. Supposed to be really fast with some features that the Ender 3 S1 doesn't have. Awesome...more learning to do LOL.

[Sappo]

Just be aware that the m3 screws specified in the instructions can cause some splitting when they're used. I'm going to be using m2 screws and see what happens

[Sappo]

One of several broken attachments, but thankfully repairable

[Barmonkey]

Thanks for pointing that out! I was wondering if there would be issues using the wood screws.

I was thinking about using a nut and bolt where I can.

[Barmonkey]

I have a similar nub on the front part of the hull side. Seems like that should have been beefed up a little.

[tank_me]

Nice looking model so far tank_me. I assume that is made with the Sunlu PETG? and Do you use a dryer for the PETG?

Going to do some more research on PETG, but the Sunlu brand seems to be a good product from what I have read.

Yes, it's Sunlu PETG. I have a Sunlu S2 dryer. I typically put the PETG in the dryer at the default PETG temp, but I bump it up to 8 hours. Don't be afraid to use glue on the build plate especially with PETG. It helps with removal of the PETG since it will stick hard to most surfaces.

Just be aware that the m3 screws specified in the instructions can cause some splitting when they're used. I'm going to be using m2 screws and see what happens

I have an M3 tap I run through the holes before putting the screws in, but I use fine threaded M3s since that's what I have on hand. If for some reason you strip out a hole, you can sometimes just drill it through to the other side and add a nut if you use fine thread screws.



Good luck with the learning your 3D printers. It's not a science...lots of experimentation.