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Yet Another Tongde M60

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  • #21
    with the heng long, I just hot glue two rings together and offset them a few teeth to use as a pattern for the new ones, I'll get to it eventually, I have a Leopard I need to get going on too, but I do appreciate the offer for help.

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    • #22
      Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
      with the heng long, I just hot glue two rings together and offset them a few teeth to use as a pattern for the new ones, I'll get to it eventually, I have a Leopard I need to get going on too, but I do appreciate the offer for help.
      Leo leopard or snow leopard (M-26)?

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      • #23
        Leo, aka squeaky

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        • #24
          I got another detail pack finally and a sprocket, and finally got time to redo things, encountered a few of the same problems but had a clue this time. Not perfect, but 100% better than it was for $15 and time spent. Having owned the thing for awhile now, there are things that impress me and things that don't but all in all it's been a decent little tank, ordering a steel gear box next week, keeping the plastic road wheels, haven't decided about a met Click image for larger version

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          • #25
            Do not run metal track, especially on plastic suspension.
            Nearly all of us have removed the metal track and put plastic on, which is why I carry stock TD plastic track along with all My detail parts and scale gun and recoil kits.
            RC tank parts and accessories I make
            www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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            • #26
              Good to know, because I like the plastic wheels and have no clue if i could even find a rather can color to paint the metal ones

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              • #27
                Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                Good to know, because I like the plastic wheels and have no clue if i could even find a rather can color to paint the metal ones
                Just repaint the entire tank with a more correct color. TDs color is totally wrong anyway.

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                • #28
                  Is there even a need to go with metal wheels if I'm running the plastic tracks?

                  What would be a good rattle can color to use? I used Tamiya Light Sand on my Abrams, seems a bit light

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                  • #29
                    Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                    Is there even a need to go with metal wheels if I'm running the plastic tracks?

                    What would be a good rattle can color to use? I used Tamiya Light Sand on my Abrams, seems a bit light
                    Yes, if you run the plastic tracks, you need the weight of the metal road wheel for a proper total weight of the M60.

                    I prefer the metal tracks with plastic road wheel. The Tongde plastic road wheel allows you to replace the nylon bushing with standard ball bearings. You also need to have metal sprocket and idler wheel for the metal track.

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                    • #30
                      Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                      Is there even a need to go with metal wheels if I'm running the plastic tracks?

                      What would be a good rattle can color to use? I used Tamiya Light Sand on my Abrams, seems a bit light
                      The plastic wheels a perfect fine especially if you upgrade the nylon bushings to metal bearings. Much smoother and true running afterwards.

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                      • #31
                        First mod I did was the bearings, wasn't even that expensive, I was impressed that Tongde would do that really, don;t know why HL hasn't figured it out.

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                        • #32
                          Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                          First mod I did was the bearings, wasn't even that expensive, I was impressed that Tongde would do that really, don;t know why HL hasn't figured it out.
                          They you are ahead of the game👍👍. Absolutely no need for metal wheels then. Also the USMC used the same tan as the army for Desert Storm (the era of you M60) so the tan you painted you Abrams would help the two match the two for an era.

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                          • #33
                            just ordered the metal gearbox, once we get that in I'll see what I think, nothing I've seen yet says the plastic wheeels/tracks wi;; an issue, but I haven't run it very hard because of the plastic gear box. Now I need to find the box with the cogs...

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                            • #34
                              Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                              just ordered the metal gearbox, once we get that in I'll see what I think, nothing I've seen yet says the plastic wheeels/tracks wi;; an issue, but I haven't run it very hard because of the plastic gear box. Now I need to find the box with the cogs...
                              The plastic M60 tracks are actually pretty darn good and easily on par with Tamiya plastic tracks and way better than HengLong plastic tracks. I actually prefer them over the TD M60 metal track for most applications. The TD metal track are super strong but also ridiculously heavy and as such suck battery power down fairly quickly.

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                              • #35
                                Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                                just ordered the metal gearbox, once we get that in I'll see what I think, nothing I've seen yet says the plastic wheeels/tracks wi;; an issue, but I haven't run it very hard because of the plastic gear box. Now I need to find the box with the cogs...
                                Tongde use very soft metal for the case of their gearbox. It is highly desirable to replace the soft self tapping mounting screws with M3 steel machine screws. It is more secure and less likely to ruin the soft case of the gearbox.
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                                I found the TD metal gearbox runs much smoother with the 390 motor.
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                                • #36
                                  good to know, I have an M3 kit, I'll see if it has suitable screws or get some. I did order a pair of the Admiral reds, I already have two sets of eBay and Toucan red motors that weren't any faster than the blues I have but I needed to get the order up for free shipping, what the heck ")

                                  I also ordered a couple of "shorty" 2S LiPo 5600mAh batteries, hard case, mostly to run the Heng Long's but I'm going to see about putting one in M60 if I can figure out to wire the needed connectors for hooking up to my charger, need the balance leads and the power leads.

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                                  • #37
                                    Originally posted by Roaming Gnome View Post
                                    good to know, I have an M3 kit, I'll see if it has suitable screws or get some. I did order a pair of the Admiral reds, I already have two sets of eBay and Toucan red motors that weren't any faster than the blues I have but I needed to get the order up for free shipping, what the heck ")

                                    I also ordered a couple of "shorty" 2S LiPo 5600mAh batteries, hard case, mostly to run the Heng Long's but I'm going to see about putting one in M60 if I can figure out to wire the needed connectors for hooking up to my charger, need the balance leads and the power leads.
                                    One pair of the M3 need to be 18.5mm long. You will need to customize them from the 20mm screws in your kit. I also tap the screw holes on the gearbox case for M3 threads. The new mounting screws must match the original screws in length because they go into the gearbox case. Over length screw can damage the gears.

                                    Usually, the HL blue motor runs at 15000-18000rpm. The red motor runs much faster at 25000rpm. Be careful about overheating if your reds run much slower. The speed is NOT a concern. But a slow red motor may indicate a defective one with excessive internal friction that can cause the motor to overheat and burst into flame. Just be careful.
                                    I have seen advice giveing in theese forums dont buy blue motors, should the question be what tank do you have? and whats right advice for that person, given that fact that you have a very recent tank that heng long dont suggests the red motors as a hop up they suggest blue motors in mine wich is the hop up i have done. Would

                                    There is no simple way to upgrade the Tongde drive chain. The only success I had seen is the one made by @Rubincon99 using PDSGB gearbox. The gearbox costs a little more than another plastic version M60.
                                    # Existing stock all sold, we are making the new batch now and targeting back in stock in Nov. You are welcome to place a preorder for reservation. # # NEW # in full metal! No more plastic housing versions! # Same design as the plastic version but now in full metal CNC housing! The plastic housing version has been stopped production due to tooling issues. The newPropulsion dynamics steel gearbox (we called: PDSGB) is Now available for your RC tanks! come with powerful torque and desired speed for your RC tanks! Dimension : Approx W=95, L=110, H=45 (mm), not count the shaft length. Features; 1. Straight running - as moving forward and backward are driving from 1 motor, both sides of the output shaft are rotated synchronously, there will be no speed difference and it will keep the tank running straight, and will not cause by the resistance of different gearbox, and track then made the tank cannot run straight in traditional dual mixing gearbox system. 2. Good steering linearity, it wi...

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                                    • #38
                                      Originally posted by keilau View Post
                                      One pair of the M3 need to be 18.5mm long. You will need to customize them from the 20mm screws in your kit. I also tap the screw holes on the gearbox case for M3 threads. The new mounting screws must match the original screws in length because they go into the gearbox case. Over length screw can damage the gears.

                                      Usually, the HL blue motor runs at 15000-18000rpm. The red motor runs much faster at 25000rpm. Be careful about overheating if your reds run much slower. The speed is NOT a concern. But a slow red motor may indicate a defective one with excessive internal friction that can cause the motor to overheat and burst into flame. Just be careful.
                                      I have seen advice giveing in theese forums dont buy blue motors, should the question be what tank do you have? and whats right advice for that person, given that fact that you have a very recent tank that heng long dont suggests the red motors as a hop up they suggest blue motors in mine wich is the hop up i have done. Would

                                      There is no simple way to upgrade the Tongde drive chain. The only success I had seen is the one made by @Rubincon99 using PDSGB gearbox. The gearbox costs a little more than another plastic version M60.
                                      https://www.dklmrc.com/product/dk-fmpdsgb
                                      Or you can use the TD "dual current drive". Similar to the DKLMRC unit but with all gear drives, no internal drive bands. It's also slightly lower geared.

                                      Here is one I just installed in my newest M60.
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                                      • #39
                                        I have to say, with all the custom tanks I have built and the harsh terrain I drive in I have determined that 390 motors are too fast for my leoaprd 1 builds. I run at 8.4 volts for extended power during battles after hits slow me down, and for turret speed.
                                        In the several M60s I have I also run 8,4 volts and am running the stock motors. I determined with the 8.4 Nimh battery the m60 already runs above scale speed wide open so I have not changed them out for 390s. I am very happy with the performance as is. Also noted I run plastic track on metal edition M60s because that metal track is just terribly heavy, power sucking, and doesn’t look real.
                                        If anyone wants plastic track I stock TD Oem m60 track along with all my M60 upgrades I offer.
                                        RC tank parts and accessories I make
                                        www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                                        • #40
                                          (Deleted)
                                          The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

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