TONGDE M60A3 MAKEOVER AND INSTALLATION OF AFTERMARKET PARTS

[dai phan]

Hello all,

I went and got both the brass and plastic rods. I ended up using the plastic because it is easier to cut and slightly expanded when pushed into the arm making a nice tight frictional fit. The diameter is 3/16" by Evergreen. Anything bigger will not fit into the resin grove. I had to sand down the arm to allow the tube to slide in. I adjust the length so the mantle is in dead center. I was concerned if the recoil assembly will stay in place but after screwing in the bottom of the turret, the swing arms are enclosed and there is no sloppiness of the recoil unit. I think I got the recoil assembled correctly. If that is so, I would consider this task as easy and well within reach of anyone. When I plug everything in I may need to adjust the servo disc to ensure the recoil can move in its maximum range. Dai

[dai phan]

Some of the newer M60 tanks the bar that sticks off of the elevation unit and engages with the track on the side of the recoil unit is not as long for some reason. It looks like you will have to glue a tab to the side of the elevation bar and make it longer, or drill it and put a screw into it to extend its length a little bit.

This has been a slightly frustrating issue that TD seems to have some tanks with this issue and I cannot plan for that kind of fit so far.
Another thing that could be done is file the shaft down a little smaller and slide a brass tube over it to extend it to mate into the track on the side of the recoil unit.

As I wrote this, you called me. Great chat, and we were thinking alike on the elevation arm modification.
As we discussed I am going to look into the couple unopened M60s I have on hand here and look at their turrets and see if they have the same elvation arm issue and look into including an adapter or something for that if the customer has one that has the issue.

Keep your cost to a minimum. Include one inch 3/16" plastic or brass rod and advise the buyer to slighly sand down the elevation arm so the tube can slide over. I use plastic because as it goes over the arm , it expands and make a very tight frictional fit without glue. I am not sure what type of glue would stick to nylon arm anyway. Dai

[tank_me]

Not much will stick to nylon.

[dai phan]

Greetings,

The plastic kit and paints have arrived. I will scan the decals and enlarge to 120% to get the correct 1/16 scale. Dai

[dai phan]

Not much will stick to nylon.

That is why I use the plastic tube. If I use brass I have to drill and insert a screw. Dai

[RichJohnson]

To stick to stuff like nylon we use rubber cement or automotive RTV gasket maker.

[dai phan]

To stick to stuff like nylon we use rubber cement or automotive RTV gasket maker.

You mentioned about cutting off the yellow lead in order for the recoil to work and I may need to call you on this. Dai

[dai phan]

Hello all,

Time to paint. Dai

[dai phan]

Will let everything dry for few hours then paint the cannon boots. Dai

[Rubicon99]

Will let everything dry for few hours then paint the cannon boots. Dai

Excited to see how it turns out!

[dai phan]

Greetings,

Out of paint so had to order 5 more bottles. I will order a spray gun and spray in the garage. Big tank like this is not appropriate for my small paint booth. Dai

[Rubicon99]

Greetings,

Out of paint so had to order 5 more bottles. I will order a spray gun and spray in the garage. Big tank like this is not appropriate for my small paint booth. Dai

FYI you barrel is upside down based on the orientation of the fume extractor.

[dai phan]

FYI you barrel is upside down based on the orientation of the fume extractor.

Thanks but nothing is glued in or plugged back in yet, Want to take a few days to paint then will be back at the electronics. Dai

[dai phan]

Hi all,

Applied a wash and weathering the turret. Looking the tanks serving in the desert area show very little weathering and that is why I keep mine to a minimum. You can see good contrast between the treated turret and untreated base. The color of the rubber boot ranges from dark grey, tan to green. I use dark grey and let me know if I need to correct. This is my first time weathering armor so I welcome your input. Dai

PS: Looking at it now I need to add more shadow along the edges.

[Rubicon99]

Hi all,

Applied a wash and weathering the turret. Looking the tanks serving in the desert area show very little weathering and that is why I keep mine to a minimum. This is my first time weathering armor so I welcome your feedbacks. Dai

PS: Looking at it now I need to add more shadow along the edges.

When it come to desert tanks they do get pretty grimy when seen in person. The tan color often causes a "wash out" effect in photos and you can't see all the grime. Don't be afraid to given it a deeper weathering. It will at worst look maintenance neglected and at best look used but not abused. It's all in the individuals eye and taste that sees it.

Dirt and grime give tanks character, so it come down to how much character you want it to have.

[dai phan]

When it come to desert tanks they do get pretty grimy when seen in person. The tan color often causes a "wash out" effect in photos and you can't see all the grime. Don't be afraid to given it a deeper weathering. It will at worst look maintenance neglected and at best look used but not abused. It's all in the individuals eye and taste that sees it.

Dirt and grime give tanks character, so it come down to how much character you want it to have.

Yes I do need to add more weathering. I have been looking at your photos as reference. Dai

[dai phan]

Greetings to all,

Added some more weathering to the turret. Dai

[dai phan]

Some real life of the stuff piling on the tank. Dai

[dai phan]

Greetings,

Weathering on the base tonight. Dai

[Rubicon99]

Greetings,

Weathering on the base tonight. Dai

Starting to come to life👍👍