I think you did mention it. And to adjust a little more for the weight. Even with the motors out I was having a Forrest Gump moment.
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Slow progress. But progress, nonetheless. I plan on placing a screen on the air inlet and radiator air inlet. Installed a piece of plastic in the driver's foul weather windshield. I found a workable decal on the sheet that came with the Jeep I got from Rich. I also placed a plate under the crew's stowage bin. I hope it does not create an issue
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Ditched my V3 for a TK 7.1 on my M24. Driving is a lot more crisp and responsive now.SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
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Yep, you really can't go wrong with HL v7.1...except maybe for the cost. HL should just ditch the parallel production lines and focus on the 7.1.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Picked up the 7.1 because I had a return/refund. Started looking at install today. The labels I placed on the TD 3.0 wires have all but come off. My 7.1 MFU came with a T-connector. I am thinking this is the laziest solution. Amazon.com: 2Pairs Tamiya Connector to T Plug Adapter Cable for RC Cars Lipo/NiMH Battery Charging ESC Connection : Toys & Games.
I have been spending some time jumping between projects including the Chaffe, M5 and the backyard German village diorama.
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I just got one as well. I opted for the all plastic M24. Yes, the first thing I'm going to do is to remove the fender skirts!!! The main gun on mine doesn't function at all, and I'm wondering if anyone has the same problem???Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Edit: BTW, I'm also going to convert the turret gear from 320 to 360, I can't stand hitting the dead spot and hearing it clicking!!!!!!!!!!!!Comment
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