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Wobbling roadwheel suspension arms on Taigen/Torro metal Leopard1A6

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  • Wobbling roadwheel suspension arms on Taigen/Torro metal Leopard1A6

    I am in the process of upgrading my HL Leopard2A6 with a Torro metal lower chassis. I found many features that I like, but the installation is nothing but smooth.
    https://www.motionrc.com/products/torro-1-16-scale-german-leopard-2a6-metal-chassis-tor1213889006?variant=38101447737529&utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=display&utm_campaign=WebConversion-Dec27,2019&utm_id=204078&cto_pld=NVQxMasGAQBTU1jgnoRSAw Anyone has information on how the road wheels are attached to this


    The Torro chassis came with the suspension arms pre-mounted. When I mount the roadwheels, I found the arms wobble a lot. I finish anyway and test drive it in the basement. The driving seems alright, but the straight dash run is not as smooth as I expected.

    I had similar arm wobbling problem with the TongDe M60. I solved the problem by replacing the nylon rings with ball bearings on the torsion bar axles. It is now the smoothest running tank I have.

    The Torro design is very different. The torsion bar suspension arm axle is a simple plug goes into an oversized hole on the chassis wall. Torro use a rubber O-ring to seal the gap for water proof. No ball bearing is allowed.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Torro_torsionbarplug-1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	13.4 KB ID:	421515 Click image for larger version  Name:	Torro_torsionbarplug-3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	17.8 KB ID:	421516 Click image for larger version  Name:	Torro_torsionbarplug-2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	16.2 KB ID:	421517 Click image for larger version  Name:	Torro_roadwheel_o-ring.jpg Views:	0 Size:	146.5 KB ID:	421514

    Any suggestion on how to improve or eliminate the suspension arm wobbling?

    If you have a Torro tank, any model, do you have the same problem?

  • #2
    Can any Taigen/Torro RC tank owner tell me whether they ever see any wobbling of the torsion bar suspension assembly. Is that possible that I get an defective chassis with oversized holes on it?

    I have paint the chassis, but it is only 2 weeks old. Getting warranty service may be difficult since I purchased the parts from Germany.​

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    • #3
      With the torsion rods providing tension from the inside the hull and the O-rings on the outside, the shafts where the assembled road wheels with arms have close to zero play when screwed on. The O-rings essentially limit the slop. I just looked at both of my Taigen Leo's and the road wheels are quite aligned and free of side-to-side play. You may want to experiment with different O-rings, or you could try getting different thickness brass tubes and sleeve the shafts. I didn't see any variation between my Leo's and they were purchased 2-3 years apart. I also haven't seen any sort of manufacturing defects in the 8 Taigen/Toro tanks, design flaws perhaps, but the manufacturing has always been consistent.

      I followed your transition a bit out of curiosity because I had an extra hull couple years back and was going to build out with HL electronics and upper, scratched that idea as I wasn't convinced the mounting points would match up and ended up getting a complete Torro upper to finish the build.

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