Baffled

[rb67mustang]

BTW, Flak62, check out page 78 of the Post Your Pictures: RC Tank Gallery. I posted three videos of my 1/6 M5 Stuart. It originally was a child's toy, and now it's a highly modified adults toy!!!LOLLLLL!!!

[rb67mustang]

RM-883

Evan, thank you very much!!! I'll search for, and buy one!!!

[Flak62]

That's the one 👌

[rb67mustang]

That's the one 👌

Noted and searching for one.

[Flak62]

Good luck with your search

[quitcherbitchen]

Yeah same here with me no one around me or any clubs, I'm hoping to get the new transmitter by the end of the week so I'll have to go from there! I've got a problem with the recoil working with the clark tk 50 board I put in a 360 degree turret ring and that made the muzzle flash work but not the recoil, so still need a solution to that issue if anyone has any idea! Thanks for the replies

There are a multitude of issues that could be going on, but the fact your transmitter works with the receiver leads me to believe that it is a protocal issue with the receiver. Are you sure you have the S bus connected correctly? In PWM mode servos will work with any of the receivers normal output channel connections, but with S-bus not programmed or connected properly-- nothing will work especially the Clark board designed for S-bus. Like Tang pointed out take a picture with your phone and upload it to the thread. That will be much easier to help you out. Clark boards are Hobbyist boards not toy boards like some Heng Long 7.0 and below. They are overly complicated and you might need to buy a programmer for Clark to actually reset the board. I know the Haya guy was helping, but Clark boards have a bad habit of sticking in a setting if you don't cycle thru the whole option list at least once and then stop on the one you want and then unplug it to test. Failure to unplug will usually mean the board will lose the setting if you try and program another option. Read up on the Clark directions as hard as it may look to understand, but if you have the programmer it would teach you a lot about the board. Clark boards are very powerful in regards to setting options. I have owned many. Clark TK 50 and up are good. TK 40 and below are bad. Hope this helps solve a very frustrating issue I am sure.

[Flak62]

Thank you for your info,

[Tang - RC.Senshado]

I'll not skip ahead to the recoil and other stuff until we get the core of the issue resolved.

Okay since we've established you're getting power to the receiver and your transmitter is bound correctly, next is:

did you map out all the switches on the transmitter for all 10 channels?

I don't have my transmitter in front of me so I'll go off memory.
1) You need to make sure the remote is set to SBUS and PWM setting first of all.
2) Under function > switches you'll map out channels 5-10. You will want to follow the scheme as listed on the Clark online manual (Ch5 = Switch A/Ch 6 = Switch D/Ch 7 = Switch B/Ch 8 Switch C/ Ch9 = VAR A / Ch10 = Var B
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eTNqgvj9n0

If you don't get past this step, your tank won't be doing anything besides getting power

[Tang - RC.Senshado]

Have you read the instructions on the the Clark site? If I recall Clark boards don’t do anything until you do the ninja stick maneuvers to start the engine up.

I think he's got the TK50 SBUS so that stick ninja stuff is gone now

[Flak62]

Yes I've done all of that, been over and over it! And yes it's a clark tk 50 board

[Tang - RC.Senshado]

Tang, I have a question for you. Many years ago, I had plans to RC the 1/6 Dragon M4 Sherman. FOA had all the rear to get the job done, but it was expensive. I bought a Sherman Clark Board (CB) for it, and I'd like to use it in my 1/6 M5 Stuart. Yes, the sound would be off, but no one will know the difference, except other RC Tankers. When I bought the CB, I also purchased the TV remote to program it, but over the years, I've lost it. Which remote works??? My 1/6 M5 has 360 servo turret rotation, as well as an airsoft cannon with servo gun elevation, and servo recoil. The CB would work quite well. Thanks, any help you could offer me would be great.

They were able to show the same remote I have so I don't have anything to add to that, but I do have input on your big tank projects:

Which Clark did you get? The older ones I don't think are ideal to drive such a big tank. I'm not sure I trust the new ones for it either. I own around a dozen ranging from old TK22 that are still alive and kicking in my club all the way to current which is TK50. A lot of people killed the early ones either through a combination user error/negligence+poor documentation, and just lower threshold for the quality of capacitors and crap on it. Using too powerful of a speaker or wrong ohm was enough to kill the boards. And if you stress the boards just through hard driving or stall conditions, it's easy to fry their capacitors and amps, though they say the amp rating for the motor ports is up to 120 amp if you solder directly to the board the motor leads. If you use just the JST connectors to hook up the motors, it'll be less than half that and you'll just kill that thing. At my suggestion (I don't personally own the big scale tanks but worked on them for our group), I recommend a Heng Long TK 7.1. It can drive standard gearbox config or dual current (drive/steer motor) type gearbox no problem. The rating is 120 amps and it can handle juice from a 7.4v all the way to 14v battery. You'll be able to run your servo elevation and recoil off of it. It doesn't have servo rotation so you'd have to modify your servo and make it into a PWM motor and then it'll be happy. That's my opinion though, you can take it with a grain of salt. We have the Dragon 1/6 in our club running the TK 7.1 and I'm working on modernizing a pair of rescue 21st Century 1/10 Abrams to Heng Long 7.1. Boards are already installed and driving nicely so the hard part begins (making the barrel recoil and all that jazz). I'm waiting til one of our members gives me the go ahead (and their money) to convert their Stuart to a TK 7.1. It should be cake and we will make it battle capable too lol.

[Tang - RC.Senshado]

Ok how about a picture of the receiver? What port is the cable coming from the board going into on your receiver?

[quitcherbitchen]

here is a picture of my board. Does yours have an on and off jumper? That is the red wire in the photo that curves into the same socket

[Flak62]

No mine has the physical switch in that socket

[rb67mustang]

They were able to show the same remote I have so I don't have anything to add to that, but I do have input on your big tank projects:

Which Clark did you get? The older ones I don't think are ideal to drive such a big tank. I'm not sure I trust the new ones for it either. I own around a dozen ranging from old TK22 that are still alive and kicking in my club all the way to current which is TK50. A lot of people killed the early ones either through a combination user error/negligence+poor documentation, and just lower threshold for the quality of capacitors and crap on it. Using too powerful of a speaker or wrong ohm was enough to kill the boards. And if you stress the boards just through hard driving or stall conditions, it's easy to fry their capacitors and amps, though they say the amp rating for the motor ports is up to 120 amp if you solder directly to the board the motor leads. If you use just the JST connectors to hook up the motors, it'll be less than half that and you'll just kill that thing. At my suggestion (I don't personally own the big scale tanks but worked on them for our group), I recommend a Heng Long TK 7.1. It can drive standard gearbox config or dual current (drive/steer motor) type gearbox no problem. The rating is 120 amps and it can handle juice from a 7.4v all the way to 14v battery. You'll be able to run your servo elevation and recoil off of it. It doesn't have servo rotation so you'd have to modify your servo and make it into a PWM motor and then it'll be happy. That's my opinion though, you can take it with a grain of salt. We have the Dragon 1/6 in our club running the TK 7.1 and I'm working on modernizing a pair of rescue 21st Century 1/10 Abrams to Heng Long 7.1. Boards are already installed and driving nicely so the hard part begins (making the barrel recoil and all that jazz). I'm waiting til one of our members gives me the go ahead (and their money) to convert their Stuart to a TK 7.1. It should be cake and we will make it battle capable too lol.

First, I want to say forgive me Flak62 for hijacking your thread!!!

Tang, thank you very much for your information packed well thought out reply to my question. I think I'll sell my new (many years ago) and never used TK22 M4 Sherman board and get a new HL 7.1 board, and swap out the turret servo for the motor you mentioned. I also want to change the original drive motors & gear boxes for something better, for the 1/6 M5 is under powered. I'm also planning to modify the tracks by drilling many small hole to insert pieces of what's referred to as music wire to give the tracks the traction they're lacking.


So, what's my TK22 board worth??? Tang, thanks once again for your reply. Is there a thread here I could ask questions in the future?