Roban B212 Civilian heli 600 size

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  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by Gmack908
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    Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.
    Good job explaining everything Gmack, you explain things better than I can.......

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  • Gmack908
    replied
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    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff
    Sorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.
    Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.

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  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Sorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.

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  • Gmack908
    replied
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    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff

    Have you run up your mechanics yet? If so, how did it go? Also spoke with a friend the other day and I learned that any tail drive shafts that are not pinned or fastened with set screws need to be drilled and pinned since the glue holding the aluminum "square" drive will come loose. From what I see the short upper drive shaft of the UH1 is not pinned.
    I have not drilled or pinned mine. But I will certainly look into it. So! Quick story I will give you. I am almost complete with my build and am going to post video links and a ton of photos but let me just give you the quick rundown on my experience. So I built the fuse and mechanics. A few little quirks here in there which as you run into just message me and I will fill you in how to deal with them. Take your time and shims the bevel gears nice. Also really pay attention to that shaft in those bearing blocks you pointed out above. I didn’t realize that one of the blocks was slightly narrower than the other and when tighten together in frame sides it was putting stress on that shaft. I didn’t realize it but the mechanics were squealing loud. My first Roban I kind of just thought that’s how they sounded. I flew the mechanics just hovering in my yard about 10 times. I then put them in fuse and all the scale jiblets including lighting kit. I went to field and flew it. It was nice for 5 minutes and then out of no where that shaft snapped and I had no tail rotor. I put it down best I could but fuse and main blades was a total loss. It was a $900 mistake. I ordered new fuse and have since fixed mechanics and main rotor. My fix was adding a paper shim between frame half and inside face of lower bearing block. Everything spins great now and no squeal sound. I flew the mechanics today for real at the field for two 9 minute flights. No issues and sounded great. I also recommend using a good grease on all metal bevel gears. I recommend. VRP honey grease. You can buy it at Amain website. It’s sticky and does not fling off. Greatly quiets the gears on the heli. I am flying my ESC governed at 1375rpm headspeed and it sounds good and flies great. Come next weekend it should be in the new fuse and flying. Any questions feel free to message me as I live and breathe this hobby.

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  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Originally posted by Gmack908

    I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.
    Have you run up your mechanics yet? If so, how did it go? Also spoke with a friend the other day and I learned that any tail drive shafts that are not pinned or fastened with set screws need to be drilled and pinned since the glue holding the aluminum "square" drive will come loose. From what I see the short upper drive shaft of the UH1 is not pinned.

    Leave a comment:


  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Originally posted by Gmack908

    I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.
    That was my guess, and thanks for confirming it!

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  • Gmack908
    replied
    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff

    I'm still sorting out my Phoenixtech/Roban pile of parts. Some are metal and some are plastic. My latest puzzle problem is as follows and shown in the picture... I replaced the tail (white plastic) drive with the black metal one as shown. However the existing "top" bearing will NOT fit over the 5.5mm top part of the shaft as shown. Is there a 9mm x 5mm bearing hidden somewhere in my $80 metal upgrade package or am I supposed to leave out the top bearing and have it supported by the tail drive bearing blocks?

    Click image for larger version

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    I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.

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  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Originally posted by Gmack908
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	321658 Here are a few pictures of the Phoenixtech 600 esp clone mechanics. Something to note, the Phoenixtech comes with plastic umbrella gears in the tail rotor gear box as well as the torque tube gears box. The Roban B212 kit includes all new metal umbrella gears as well as a stack of shims so you can adjust the gear mesh appropriately. The gears seem of very nice quality. The main rotor head and components seem to be of nice quality and machining. Many of the parts in the kit are preassembled, however you need to go through everything and disassemble and add lubricant or thread locker as needed.
    I'm still sorting out my Phoenixtech/Roban pile of parts. Some are metal and some are plastic. My latest puzzle problem is as follows and shown in the picture... I replaced the tail (white plastic) drive with the black metal one as shown. However the existing "top" bearing will NOT fit over the 5.5mm top part of the shaft as shown. Is there a 9mm x 5mm bearing hidden somewhere in my $80 metal upgrade package or am I supposed to leave out the top bearing and have it supported by the tail drive bearing blocks?

    Click image for larger version

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  • Gmack908
    replied
    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff
    Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
    You can use an align 600 esp main bearing block with spacers to make it 54mm or use a Phoenixtech 600 esp main bearing block for the third bearing block. You will need to order phoenixtech bearing 6800ZZ which is available on motion Rc for $3.99

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  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff
    Neither Ebay, RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de has it.
    Try giving a call to Big Sky Hobby in Eagan, MN They are a hobby shop with a ton of helicopter parts stocked. They may have the old Align part stocked somewhere, and they do ship.

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  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Neither Ebay, RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de has it.

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  • PawPaw
    replied
    Can get it from RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de. It’s the 3rd bearing block for the PhoenixTech 600.

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  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by flyingmyAoff
    Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
    The part you need is Align H60031. Unfortunately, its discontinued and difficult to find. Might try ebay.

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  • flyingmyAoff
    replied
    Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.

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  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Your getting closer to the maiden flight....

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  • Gmack908
    replied
    So much to catch up on soon about the build! I will go into lengthy detail but I will say that I am into the mechanics testing phase now so I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Click image for larger version

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  • Gmack908
    replied
    Originally posted by DCORSAIR

    Oh, so those arms are plastic, thought they used to metal of some sort, maybe not.
    I’m going to look into seeing if they make metal ones! These are what I have Click image for larger version

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  • Gmack908
    replied
    Originally posted by eawings
    What plastic radius arms? This is what you need Metal elevator arms
    These ones. Click image for larger version

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  • eawings
    replied
    What plastic radius arms? This is what you need Metal elevator arms
    Attached Files

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  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by Gmack908

    Thanks man! I just checked that Roban 600 size EC145 out online and it looks nice! Definetly a sharp looking heli. So far I can say the overall quality of the phoenixtech Mechanics is great. Everything on their end was included in the kit. Only thing I can say negative so far and it was my fault, is that one of the plastic radius arms I was installing while tightening the screw that holds it I was holding the radius arm with my other hand. I kind of twisted it slightly and it snapped in half where it hinges. I ordered new align ones and had them 3 days later.
    Oh, so those arms are plastic, thought they used to metal of some sort, maybe not.

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