Roban B212 Civilian heli 600 size

[DCORSAIR]

succesfull first flight

Looks great, nice job.

[Helikapoter]

succesfull first flight

[eawings]

The best glue to use for your windshield and windows is the E6000 you can buy from Home Depot. No smear no drips. Clean install.

[DCORSAIR]

Finaly i made the first flight with the test bed and added some lights with the Scaleflying light set .
I found the windows a little "blurry" and i discoverd that there was on all windows a protection foil ! ( never read about it) so i removed the windows and must glue them again and also the interior
Also made a nose section inside , looks nice from outside ( see pics)

And the first test flight in my backyard with the modified mechanics >.https://youtu.be/-qHvv6QN4Uo

I did the same thing when I built my first Roban Hughes 500, I thought how junky it was to have such foggy windows, I was very disappointed with the kit when I went to glue them in, then I found out they had a protective film on them, looked much nicer after I removed the film.....

[Helikapoter]

Finaly i made the first flight with the test bed and added some lights with the Scaleflying light set .
I found the windows a little "blurry" and i discoverd that there was on all windows a protection foil ! ( never read about it) so i removed the windows and must glue them again and also the interior
Also made a nose section inside , looks nice from outside ( see pics)

And the first test flight in my backyard with the modified mechanics >.https://youtu.be/-qHvv6QN4Uo

[Helikapoter]

I made again some modifications ( see pics) , tailservo in frame an added new linkage . I want to use 700 blades on it and the flasher blade grips are with 12mm to small , i wil now use a
Mikado head with the 14mm blade grips , Also i ordered a Spirit GTR Fbl system + Geo link for this 212
The cockpit as deliverd was made for a military 212 version , i made some modifications to let it look more like the original Era version ( semi-scale) and also painted the whole interir in the Bell gray paint. To be continued . . . 😀

[F106DeltaDart]

What makes the metal tail gears better than the much to heavy pvc gears delivered in the kit ? , the pvc gears are made for heavy duty 3D flying and must be strong enough to last on a lower rpm scale helicopter ,and it makes the tail so heavy.
I also like to know if anyone have used 700 blades on this model and if it wil flying as nice as I hope, I wil try asymmetrical Spinblades on it .
also I wil move the tail to the mechanics frame to reduce weight of the tail and wil use ball bearing levers on it, see pictures

I used the stock plastic gears on my tail. As you said, they are designed for 3D flying, so they are more than adequate for our purposes. I like your idea of bring the tail servo forward. I would closely monitor the tail gear arrangement in your 2nd picture, where you used a stock metal gear meshing with an Align plastic gear for the torque tube drive. I'm worried that the metal gear will wear through the plastic gear at an accelerated rate. It might be ok, but check on it when you are test flying the mechanics and please report your findings. If it does work well, it might help extend the life of the Roban metal gears and eliminate the need for lubrication at these points.

[Helikapoter]

The pictures of my 212 building

[Helikapoter]

What makes the metal tail gears better than the much to heavy pvc gears delivered in the kit ? , the pvc gears are made for heavy duty 3D flying and must be strong enough to last on a lower rpm scale helicopter ,and it makes the tail so heavy.
I also like to know if anyone have used 700 blades on this model and if it wil flying as nice as I hope, I wil try asymmetrical Spinblades on it .
also I wil move the tail to the mechanics frame to reduce weight of the tail and wil use ball bearing levers on it, see pictures

[Gmack908]

Sweet, sounds great, nice scale flying too. Now get that green 800 size Huey to build...

Thanks man! Will let you know when I receive it! 🍻

[DCORSAIR]

Here’s a video of my B212 in flight. https://youtu.be/MsOSAVZFc5U

Sweet, sounds great, nice scale flying too. Now get that green 800 size Huey to build and join the big boys......

[flyingmyAoff]

Looks good! If the tail drive shaft is still free floating, w/o a upper bushing you're only one tiny slip away from breaking the tail drive shaft again. I'm machining my own bushing. Got the bearing bronze in today. SCREW MOTIONRC!!!!

[flyingmyAoff]

......

[Gmack908]

A dusk flight in the fall

[Gmack908]

Here’s a video of my B212 in flight. https://youtu.be/MsOSAVZFc5U

[flyingmyAoff]

Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?

As far as the tail drive bearing blocks are concerned.... The bearing blocks should have been machined for a press fit..... OR there needs to be a removeable collar that holds the bearing in place... Simply throwing it at the buyer and expecting them to glue the bearing in place is nuts.

[flyingmyAoff]

Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?

This Roban UH-1N Iroquois 600 Size Helicopter/Phoenixtech combo that I purchased has been nothing but a nightmare since I tried to assemble it 4 months or so ago... Everytime I sit down with it I find ANOTHER totally f u'd problem. Sorry, but after tonight and other nights I've simply had ENOUGH!!!!! I've bought a $hit load of stuff from MRC and expect the stuff I buy to have a fighting chance of being assembled and flown. This mess of a combo was totally f u'd up in 2019 when they shipped it to me and it's still totally f u'd up in 2021 when I started to build it. I've put in a RMA request to MRC and have asked them to do what's right. Simply saying "We'll you should have built it in 2019" doesn't excuse the mess they sent me in 2019. Ed knows EXACTLY what I'm talking about.

[Gmack908]

Good job explaining everything Gmack, you explain things better than I can.......

Thanks man! It’s been quite an experience building this kit but have it set up nice now!

[Gmack908]

Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.

Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.

My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.

I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.

Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?

[flyingmyAoff]

Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.

Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.

Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.

My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.

I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.