I use bullseye spray shellac from home depot as a primer. I hold the can further away then you normally would and then finish coat it with regular spray paint. I like the shellac because it leaves a yellowish tint so you can tell if you missed a spot. It also seems to stick to any mold release that you might have missed when cleaning the plane. I will warn you though if you do miss a spot with the shellac that regular spray paint will eat the foam.
Thanks to you all for your input! I am a follower of the Mountain Men series on TV and love Marty Meierotto's great looking Super Cub! The Parkzone Sport Cub is a perfect fit except for color!
I have seen one Alaska Bush Plane that looks just like the Parkzone, so I may just settle for the stock kit as is!?
Thanks for all the help form you guys! It is appreciated!
As stated before, there's that nasty mold release film on any white foam airplane.
Some may not agree, but then they probably haven't tried it. I just take the Minwax clear acrylic and rub in into the surface, like applying wax on a shoe. This causes the film to rise, as its oil based and using a rag, absorbs the film. There's a thin layer of Minwax left on it and it dries quickly. Because I've been satisfied with the existing color schemes, I haven't painted over it, but that shouldn't be a problem
No muss no fuss, no IPA. You can see how she shines!
Greeting fellow fliers, I read some where once that your regular high temp engine enamel spray paint works very well on foam air craft. So I tried it on my Waco bipe, It turned out AWSOME ! Not only did it NOT EAT THE FOAM in any way shape or form, I had a super shine plush ultra finish. When I go to the field I get compliments and second, third looks all the time. You can find it at any auto parts store, or hard wear store. To take a peak, my Waco pics are in the tips and tricks section. I will post a pic here of the build in progress.
I use Dunn Edwards Perma Shell acrylic paint. Then clear coat with Varathane waterbase polyurethane. This is much better quality than Minwax. The Doctor
For my planes I'm using "Tamiya" acrylic paint mixed with alcohol(airbrushed). After plane is completely done,decals applied, I'm doing double coating 1st- "Minwax" water based polyurethane(airbrushed),2nd - "Krylon" UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic(spray) .
I'm useing Rustoleum spray paint on my new Tiger Moth. EPO and EPP foam is unaffected by spray paint. It's working beautifully. Spraying is so nice, however, taping for the second color is a major pain. Where the colors join, I pin stripe with vinyl tape, This, not only covers imperfections, but makes the colors really pop out! Doc
I've had trouble trying to add stripes or other markings over existing paint. I'm using blue painters tape stuck to my jeans etc. it still pulls some small paint chips up. Any advice would be appreciated.
I've had trouble trying to add stripes or other markings over existing paint. I'm using blue painters tape stuck to my jeans etc. it still pulls some small paint chips up. Any advice would be appreciated.
Same here....I don't have an answer. I do know, the planes I had a Minwax coat on first, then added stripes or something. Didn't have the issue. Yes, I found out too, you cant do too much of the painters tape on the jeans first...more the better.
I've had trouble trying to add stripes or other markings over existing paint. I'm using blue painters tape stuck to my jeans etc. it still pulls some small paint chips up. Any advice would be appreciated.
Same here....I don't have an answer. I do know, the planes I had a Minwax coat on first, then added stripes or something. Didn't have the issue. Yes, I found out too, you cant do too much of the painters tape on the jeans first...more the better.
I was doing some paint mods on dynam 109 and couldn't match the paint so I made small rectangles to look like patches over bullet holes. After it was done I kinda liked it.
For my planes I'm using "Tamiya" acrylic paint mixed with alcohol(airbrushed). After plane is completely done,decals applied, I'm doing double coating 1st- "Minwax" water based polyurethane(airbrushed),2nd - "Krylon" UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic(spray) .
I wasn't sure you could airbrush the Minwax. How does the airbrush handle that, not to sticky and gum up the nozzle? That would be a great time saver and nicer results than with my brushing.
I've had trouble trying to add stripes or other markings over existing paint. I'm using blue painters tape stuck to my jeans etc. it still pulls some small paint chips up. Any advice would be appreciated.
I've used vinyl electrical tape for masking. It works well and usually doesn't pull up paint. It is also very flexible for compound curves and such. The black tape sometimes leaves bits of black glue, but it is easily removed with alcohol. I use the white tape. You can find it in the electrical section at Lowes or Home Depot. Actually, the colored electrical works great for striping. If cut into small strips it will go around very small curves. It will lift up easyly if you change your mind. If you want a specific color, it can be spray painted and the paint stays put, even if stretched. However, don't stretch the tape as you put it down, or it will tend to pull back. I place several lengths of tape on an old window pane with a ruler under it to keep them strait. Then, spray paint them. They can, then, be cut into strips with an Exacto knife right on the glass. Place tape on the ends of your ruler to keep it in place. This has worked very well for me. Good luck, Doc
[hr]
Originally posted by retiredflyer
Originally posted by Alrus1
For my planes I'm using "Tamiya" acrylic paint mixed with alcohol(airbrushed). After plane is completely done,decals applied, I'm doing double coating 1st- "Minwax" water based polyurethane(airbrushed),2nd - "Krylon" UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic(spray) .
I wasn't sure you could airbrush the Minwax. How does the airbrush handle that, not to sticky and gum up the nozzle? That would be a great time saver and nicer results than with my brushing.
I've thrown my Minwax away. Varathane water base clear coat is SO MUCH better quality! You can find it at Home Depot. Doc
I've had trouble trying to add stripes or other markings over existing paint. I'm using blue painters tape stuck to my jeans etc. it still pulls some small paint chips up. Any advice would be appreciated.
I've used vinyl electrical tape for masking. It works well and usually doesn't pull up paint. It is also very flexible for compound curves and such. The black tape sometimes leaves bits of black glue, but it is easily removed with alcohol. I use the white tape. You can find it in the electrical section at Lowes or Home Depot. Actually, the colored electrical works great for striping. If cut into small strips it will go around very small curves. It will lift up easyly if you change your mind. If you want a specific color, it can be spray painted and the paint stays put, even if stretched. However, don't stretch the tape as you put it down, or it will tend to pull back. I place several lengths of tape on an old window pane with a ruler under it to keep them strait. Then, spray paint them. They can, then, be cut into strips with an Exacto knife right on the glass. Place tape on the ends of your ruler to keep it in place. This has worked very well for me. Good luck, Doc
[hr]
Originally posted by retiredflyer
Originally posted by Alrus1
For my planes I'm using "Tamiya" acrylic paint mixed with alcohol(airbrushed). After plane is completely done,decals applied, I'm doing double coating 1st- "Minwax" water based polyurethane(airbrushed),2nd - "Krylon" UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic(spray) .
I wasn't sure you could airbrush the Minwax. How does the airbrush handle that, not to sticky and gum up the nozzle? That would be a great time saver and nicer results than with my brushing.
I've thrown my Minwax away. Varathane water base clear coat is SO MUCH better quality! You can find it at Home Depot. Doc
Thanks for the tip Doc. I usually just fly em stock because I was worried about destroying them but after killing a couple not so worried anymore. Now I would like to start customizing them a little so I'm reading a lot trying to learn what works.
O.K. guys. I think I've found a way to mask your foamy for a trim without pulling up the base coat. This will only work for spray paint. Not acrylic. I sprayed a sheet of copy paper with Valspar plastic primer to seal it. Let it dry over night. I then cut out a shape and applied Elmers glue stick REPOSITIONABLE to the back. I burnished it down to an old plane and spray painted it. Walla!!! I pulled up the mask for a perfectly crisp line with no base coat pull up!!!! If you try this, let me know your results. I'm going to try this on my new Tiger Moth. We're talking a pucker factor of 10 here!!! Doc
O.K. guys. I think I've found a way to mask your foamy for a trim without pulling up the base coat. This will only work for spray paint. Not acrylic. I sprayed a sheet of copy paper with Valspar plastic primer to seal it. Let it dry over night. I then cut out a shape and applied Elmers glue stick REPOSITIONABLE to the back. I burnished it down to an old plane and spray painted it. Walla!!! I pulled up the mask for a perfectly crisp line with no base coat pull up!!!! If you try this, let me know your results. I'm going to try this on my new Tiger Moth. We're talking a pucker factor of 10 here!!! Doc
Doctor, do you lay awake at night and think up this stuff? I don't mean this in a bad way! What the heck is plastic primer, don't think I've ever seen specific plastic primer. Sounds like a neat way of doing it though. You're right, tape alone is no good!
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