Originally posted by Hetronnn
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Official Skynetic 1.4M Shrike Glider Thread
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greetings from Des Moines, WA. I am going o get a Shrike veery soon. I use a synthetic oil on the bearings of all my motors and it seems like it helps them. I have an Old Radian that has more than 400 flights on it and it is still flying like it is on rails. Hope the Shrike will do as well. Keep the flights coming.😎
Chuck
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Originally posted by Charles M Hough View Post... I am going o get a Shrike veery soon. ...
But I do recommend reading this thread. In particular, you need to be aware that the spinner tends to spin off if you reduce the throttle quickly. To mitigate this, I put a drop of blue (medium strength) Loctite on the threads of the nut inside the spinner, mounted it on the prop shaft then let it set for 24 hours - I've not had mine spin off since. But don't let the Loctite get on the plastic parts - it can eat them for lunch.
Welcome to the Shrike fan club!
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Before the Covid thing I went to a swap meet and got a bag of motors. I took them apart and cleaned them out. Two of them were 2836 motors that were really in need of some attention. I took time ernd cleaned up and ran them. I took the oldest one and put it to service . Today it is sstill dong well and is as performing well. The best thing about these motors is they were all basket cases. They are doing fine now.Chuck
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Scott sorry I did not see your question. I know this is late but I did attach the ply plate then attached the RX. It was tight but did finally fit. The set up worked ok but think the design was a challenge and more thought about placement would have helped. I was not impressed with the shrike but think my CG was too far forward and caused issues during launches. I should have tried adjusting but gave up. I did get the Night Radian and really like it's flying and lighting. It is a more gentle glider being only two control surfaces vs. the ailerons and flaps on the Shrike. Again apologies for the long response delay.
Will
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Just received my Shrike. Is the supplied ESC already programmed for brake? And, if not, does it use the same scheme that James uses for calibrating the engine in the MotionRC YouTube video, (e.g. transmitter/receiver on - unplug battery - throttle to high - plug in battery - 2 beeps - throttle to low)? Thanks for any input!
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The Shrike comes with a Hobbywing Skywalker V2 30A ESC. Can't remember if the brake was already turned on or not (but I think it was turned on). Its easy to change. See attached user manual.
Note that when the brake is turned on and you cut throttle rapidly, the spinner tends to spin off. Mine spun off when first tested on the bench. I put a small drop of medium strength threadlocker (Loctite) on the nut, let it cure for 24 hours and it hasn't come off since.Attached Files
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Originally posted by ridgerunner View PostThe Shrike comes with a Hobbywing Skywalker V2 30A ESC. Can't remember if the brake was already turned on or not (but I think it was turned on). Its easy to change. See attached user manual.
Note that when the brake is turned on and you cut throttle rapidly, the spinner tends to spin off. Mine spun off when first tested on the bench. I put a small drop of medium strength threadlocker (Loctite) on the nut, let it cure for 24 hours and it hasn't come off since.
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Hello, My name is Chuck and I live in Des Moines, WA. Have flown RC Airplanes since I was very young. My Shrike is a big long in the tooth but it still flies well. I built it about 4 years ago and it is a real winner. I have other planes, but the Shrike is an all time winner. Have been using a lot of oils on the bearing and t works well.. My model has braking on it and it seems to work just fine. Love the glide and have flown ona 2200 ma battery what seems for ever and a day.. I have two batteries that are over 5 years old now and are still woring well. Will repace them as they fade, but for now theyare still working fine.
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Really enjoying my Shrike and have been flying it nearly every day this past week. I typically get 20-30 minutes on a single 2200 3S (which I only run 1/2 way down to 3.85V/cell). Ususally get one or two thermals per flight which extends the flight duration - (most of the time the throttle is off). My countdown timer, (which counts down only when the throttle is on and counts down at a variable rate in proportion to the current throttle value), is set for 3 minutes at full throttle. Here is a shot from today (looking NW with the Pavant range, and its associated clouds in the back ground)...
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New to this forum and ordered the Skynetic Shrike yesterday, looking forward to getting it into the air. I plan to order from Aloft hobbies an aluminum spinner and collet to replace the original prop/spinner. Also will use packing tape to secure the horizontal stab much the same way the Radian stab is secured, have never had a problem with this method. Would someone please give me the specs on the prop used, length and pitch, as I may go to an Aeronaut carbon prop which I use on both my current gliders. This prop definitely enhances the climb capability over the factory supplied props of both my Conscendo and Night Radian.
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Originally posted by fchurch74 View PostNew to this forum and ordered the Skynetic Shrike yesterday, looking forward to getting it into the air. I plan to order from Aloft hobbies an aluminum spinner and collet to replace the original prop/spinner. Also will use packing tape to secure the horizontal stab much the same way the Radian stab is secured, have never had a problem with this method. Would someone please give me the specs on the prop used, length and pitch, as I may go to an Aeronaut carbon prop which I use on both my current gliders. This prop definitely enhances the climb capability over the factory supplied props of both my Conscendo and Night Radian.
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OK, my Skynetic Shrike arrived today, very pleased with the quick delivery and packaging. Manual says on first step to remove the hatch in the belly to loosen the servo rods. It doesn't want to come out and there is no screw that I can see holding it in there. I'm afraid too much pressure on my part trying to pull it out might damage the hatch. Any ideas anyone?
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Originally posted by fchurch74 View PostOK, my Skynetic Shrike arrived today, very pleased with the quick delivery and packaging. Manual says on first step to remove the hatch in the belly to loosen the servo rods. It doesn't want to come out and there is no screw that I can see holding it in there. I'm afraid too much pressure on my part trying to pull it out might damage the hatch. Any ideas anyone?
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From memory there is a hole there to put a screw in if you want to but there isn't one out of the box. I used a small screw driver to pry up the hatch. I suggest binding the plane first and see if you are close to the right adjustment without using the adjusters. All three I have flown where assemble before they came to the field and they may have done adjustment before I had my mitts on them and had to do further adjustments.
Xviper, the hatch is not the main one. It's one in the belly were the elevator and rudder servos are.
Originally posted by fchurch74 View PostOK, my Skynetic Shrike arrived today, very pleased with the quick delivery and packaging. Manual says on first step to remove the hatch in the belly to loosen the servo rods. It doesn't want to come out and there is no screw that I can see holding it in there. I'm afraid too much pressure on my part trying to pull it out might damage the hatch. Any ideas anyone?
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostXviper, the hatch is not the main one. It's one in the belly were the elevator and rudder servos are.
Shrike Glider 1450mm (57") Wingspan - PNP from Skynetic - SKY1001-001 Motion RC is proud to announce Skynetic, a new brand of foam electric aircraft for newer pilots looking to broaden their flying experience across a range of RC airplane types. Developed by and available exclusively at Motion RC, Skynetic advances our
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Originally posted by fchurch74 View PostOK, my Skynetic Shrike arrived today, very pleased with the quick delivery and packaging. Manual says on first step to remove the hatch in the belly to loosen the servo rods. It doesn't want to come out and there is no screw that I can see holding it in there. I'm afraid too much pressure on my part trying to pull it out might damage the hatch. Any ideas anyone?
Here are some pictures...
Hope this helps!
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