Freewing F-4 drag chute mod

[jpjet]

RCJD, I'd like to order 2 short kits. Do you do that through email?
JE

[quitcherbitchen]

That chute is fantastic. looks every bit like the real one.

[RCjetdude]

RCJD, very reasonable. Is there a parts list from you, I have another club member who may want in, and we need exchange names and addresses via email as well as your preferred method of payment.
I'll wait to hear from you.
JE

Check out post #21 of this thread for a parts list. Please do check with Paul on the chute and piston assembly as the chute, while priced accordingly is more than some are willing to pay.

[jpjet]

RCJD, very reasonable. Is there a parts list from you, I have another club member who may want in, and we need exchange names and addresses via email as well as your preferred method of payment.
I'll wait to hear from you.
JE

[RCjetdude]

Paul Helmsman makes the chutes and can also provide the plunger assy. I can provide a short kit which is various pieces needed for the install. The main part is the fiberglass tail cone. I charge $30 shipped in the US, $45 International for the kit I make. You would need to provide your own servos.

[jpjet]

So, what is the cost and what happens next?
JE

[RCjetdude]

lt was a collaborative effort with Paul. He had the idea for the spring loaded rod, I just ran with it. It is fairly straight forward to install. It comes with the plunger diagram and I am always here to help answer any questions. My Jolly Roger was lightly sanded with 200 grit, wiped down with denatured alcohol and then a tac cloth, masked the canopy with green Frog tape, primed with white Rustoleum primer, masked with yellow Frog tape after first sticking it to my shirt several times then airbrushed with Model Masters acrylic gloss gull gray, semi-gloss black, Insignia yellow and I think Gunmetal on the tail. Paint the yellow on first, then the gull gray. I left the bottom just white primer. Callie graphics and no clear coat. Accents were done with Aluminum. Weathering was simply a wash with watered down Burnt Umber and wiped with a clean cloth. It looks as good today as the day I finished it.

[jpjet]

RCJetDude, I am so impressed with your beautifully done mods on the Freewing F-4. I can't stop chuckling over the cleverness, skill and functionality of it all. How the heck did you think this through so dang well. My hat is off to you, sir, very well conceived and constructed.
Now, how much does your kit cost and does it come with instructions and paint recommendations for the Jolly Roger version, despite the photos here on HS?

Thanks,
JE

[paulsnapp]

RC JetDude - After completing the mod, what paint did you use to paint your tail cone to match the original color from FlightLine? Thanks!

[RCjetdude]

They sell them at craft/fabric stores along with the rotary cutting wheels. Even Walmart caries them in the craft section.

[LoraMoser]

Hi,

Here are some of the directions on how I go about making the drag chute for the Freewing F-4 Phantom.

The short kit comes with all the materials for building. I have penciled in all the cut lines and ribbon placement lines.


First lightly spray with spray mount. I usually spray one sec from three feet above cutting board. Then apply material to the cutting board.
Make sure to smooth out material nice and flat.

Using a rotary razor cut all slots, outer and center.

Cut 10 pieces of 1/16 ribbon at 20 inch lengths and place on a surface to be sprayed with adhesive. I spray about 18.5 exposed and the rest is covered
with tape on end for better handling. Make 3 or 4 passes of adhesive.

Now a apply ribbons quickly while adhesive is tacky onto the marked lines starting with a cross hair pattern then starting anywhere from left to right clockwise.
Press ribbon onto material. Don't worry about the ribbon tails being to even because they will be trimmed to about an inch later.

Now the fun part... slowly start peeling the material off the cutting board, ribbons will come off so be careful. The idea of gluing the ribbons is to aid during sewing.

I then set the chute to the side and flip the mat over and add some baby/talcum powder placing the chute glued side down to kill off the glue residue.

Next I take a poster board and iron to insure glue from the ribbons set better before sewing.

Cut ribbon tails to one inch all the way around and singe ends.

Time to sew. Straight stitch and back stitch at the beginning, center and end of each ribbon.

Now you are just about halfway done with your chute. Place to the side and get ready for suspension lines, shock and finally assembly.

Hey, could you advice me where you've got those cutting mats? I suppose I need one too. The result looks really fine and precise

[Heirmeistr]

I could not figure out (from searching the web) what longer servo arm would fit the DSM44 servo so off to the LHS I went. Traveling to the LHS is a last resort for me these days as it takes 1.5 - 2 hrs to travel there and back but sometimes it is necessary. At the LHS I did find some arms that fit, they are the E-flite EFLRS754. You just cant use the provided screw as it is a different thread.

[RCjetdude]

Oh golly....if I remember correctly it was one I just had lying around which isn't going to help you much I know. I may have gotten it from my local hobby store or it was an arm that came with another servo. A possible option would be to extend the arms that came with it. Sorry...

[Heirmeistr]

RDjetdude
I ordered 2 of the DSM-44 servos as shown in the photos for my mod. These servos come with very short arms (yellow in color). I quickly realized that these yellow arms are too short for releasing the trigger. I see in the photos and video you are using a longer white arm for the trigger release. I tried all of my small servo arms but none will fit this servo. Do you know where I can get longer than stock servo arms that will fit the DSM-44 servo? Thank You. I am so close to finishing this mod and I am anxious to give it a try.

[RCjetdude]

I am really impressed on how well this is all thought out. Definitely done by someone much smarter than me. I cannot figure out the 2mm tapped screw hole. How long of a screw is needed and how is it used? I assume I need a hole in the CF ejection tube as well?
Does anyone have pictures of the screw install or can explain it to carefully to me? Thank You

The 2mm screw I used was from a metal gear servo. It is the screw used to hold the servo horn on. It needs to be a machine screw and flat on the bottom. Doesn't really matter how long it is. The way it works is that this screw is what actually keeps the whole piston assembly from shooting out the back when fired but still allows the piston to be removed if needed. I removed some foam from above the stock CF tube vertical fin channel in the aft of the fuselage to gain access to where I needed to drill the hole and I have a 2mm tap to thread the holes. The hole for the screw in the short piece that slides on the plunger rod can either be tapped for 2mm as well or a clearance hole for it. The point is to run the screw through the stock CF tail tube from above and into the sleeve without it binding against the plunger rod. You want it to be threaded secure in the hole in the stock CF tube and thread into the slider to lock it in place. You can adjust the screw to keep it from binding against the rod and then use some Foam Tac or the white tube glue that comes in the kit to keep the screw from changing position. The slider also gives the spring something to compress against when set. I hope this helps. let me know if you have anymore questions. Here is a picture of the screw which you can just make out covered with Foam Tac. Looks like I had to remove a small section of the plastic fin mount as well.

[Heirmeistr]

I am really impressed on how well this is all thought out. Definitely done by someone much smarter than me. I cannot figure out the 2mm tapped screw hole. How long of a screw is needed and how is it used? I assume I need a hole in the CF ejection tube as well?
Does anyone have pictures of the screw install or can explain it to carefully to me? Thank You

[Theblacknova]

PM's sent to RCJetdude and Helmsman

[Phantom]

No worries, next time you're over here send me a message and I'll drop you some pins from waze or Naver.

[WrightBrosRC]

Many Thx Phantom! Thats some great info there. Much appreciated!

[Phantom]

WrightBrosRC, Goyang is about 80k north of me and Nonsan is in the opposite direction about 100k to the south of me. The Koreans have two fields that I am aware of near Goyang, you'd have to travel south from Goyang to the southern bank of the Han river and then head east of the Chinook killer bridge, if your familiar with that particular landmark. If not, Lotte Tower, the tallest building in S. Korea, is a good land mark to use. Both of these fields are along the Han river bank, southern side, just north of K-16, Seoul AB.

As for Nonsan, it is pretty close to K-8 Kusan AFB, Helmsman52's old haunt. Don't know of any RC airfields around there but just about everything west of Nonsang, in regards to topography, stays pretty flat all the way to the Yellow Sea, Koreans call it the West Sea. I say this because the first time I was stationed over her around 2009, I would fly where ever I could. I was flying rotary wing on that tour and that's how I found my locations to fly RC. Be respectful and the Koreans would let you fly anywhere, there is no crazed fear of the killer drones here in Korea like back home.

I only know of three other fields in Korea, one just west of Daegu in the SE, also on the bank of the river, one that the Koreans fly turbine jets out of about an hour and a half east of me on a dried up lake bed. Last but not least the airfield I fly at which is about 15 mics east from my place, K-6, Camp Humphreys. It is an abandoned lumpy asphalt parking lot with shear drop offs, from 30ft graduating to 60ft on 3 sides down to rice paddies. Hence the nickname that I have given it, the "aircraft carrier." You either make the deck or take the walk of shame down to the rice paddies to pick up the pieces lol.