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Freewing F-4 drag chute mod

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  • jasmith41
    replied
    Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post

    A precautionary note: I lost an F-4 due to what was likely an RF noise induced glitch.

    Search this forum on RF chokes or chokes. Read the info presented and consider adding them.

    I have not had any radio issues on HIGH CURRENT EDF planes since I began using them.

    Your decision….but you may be at risk if you don’t install them.

    -GG
    I put those on every plane i have after the first Viper 90 incident. That wasn't the problem and lack of skill was / is, but it can't hurt. A guy i know even put them on servo wires in the Mig29...

    Leave a comment:


  • GliderGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by paulsnapp View Post
    I have finally finished my chute mod along with installing a beefier elevator servo, plywood elevator servo mounting, 4-40 pushrod with Carbon Fiber sleeve and a heavy duty ball link. Now I need to finish my Phantom!
    A precautionary note: I lost an F-4 due to what was likely an RF noise induced glitch.

    Search this forum on RF chokes or chokes. Read the info presented and consider adding them.

    I have not had any radio issues on HIGH CURRENT EDF planes since I began using them.

    Your decision….but you may be at risk if you don’t install them.

    -GG

    Leave a comment:


  • Talal
    replied
    Originally posted by Helmsman52 View Post
    Here is the red and white drag chute I’d been working on. Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    How can I order it

    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    I have finally finished my chute mod along with installing a beefier elevator servo, plywood elevator servo mounting, 4-40 pushrod with Carbon Fiber sleeve and a heavy duty ball link. Now I need to finish my Phantom!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    I have tried several things to try to get a smooth finish for the chute mod. I have tried green Tamiya putty, Beacon Foam-Finish and Beacon Hobby Coat, and this last round a very fine spackling compound. For each try I sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper before airbrushing on the paint. I have attached a couple of pics and you will see it is far from getting a smooth finish. Can you please share with me what your technique for doing this is? Thanks!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    What they call performance spackle. It's thicker and dries harder than normal spackle.

    Leave a comment:


  • SanExup
    replied
    paulsnapp Lightweight spackle that can be found in hardware stores, for spackling walls. It spreads well and sands well, and is light in weight. I know I've seen some you tube videos where a specific brand is recommended. RcGeek probably has a video tutorial. I believe the stuff I have used is made by dap products. There might even be an ultra lightweight. The key word on the label should say sandable.

    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    I have my chute mod done and ready to go as soon as I repaint the tail section to match. I have finally found a paint mixture to match the original and have sanded and painted twice. Color looks good but I am not happy with the finish around the fiberglass tail mod. The filler seems to stay porous and I can not get a smooth finish. I have tried Tamiya Basic Type Putty and Foam-Tac Foam Filler, sanded and followed with Foam Tac Foam Finish and Hobby Coat. I am using 1000 grit flexible sandpaper. When I sand, the filler does not sand smooth and hard but feels like maybe rubber and stays porous. Could someone please share what you use to fill and smooth gaps and rough areas before painting? Thanks!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Turbine guy
    replied
    I’d like to purchase a 24” one
    Please message me for payment info

    Leave a comment:


  • Helmsman52
    replied
    Originally posted by Turbine guy View Post
    What is the inflated diameter?
    Can you make larger ones?
    The flat diameter is 17” for this certain scale model. The real F-4 chute has a flat diameter of16’. I make chutes according to scale up to 35” in flat diameter. Thanks.

    192 divided by your scale = ?
    192 divided 7 = 27.43”

    Leave a comment:


  • Turbine guy
    replied
    What is the inflated diameter?
    Can you make larger ones?

    Leave a comment:


  • Helmsman52
    replied
    Originally posted by combatflyr View Post
    Really looking for black and yellow
    This is the black and gold I make.
    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • combatflyr
    replied
    Really looking for black and yellow

    Leave a comment:


  • RCjetdude
    replied
    Masterful work!

    Leave a comment:


  • Helmsman52
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	271476​ ​​​​Chutes are $175 plus $5 shipping and $15 for overseas. $25 for plunger assembly.

    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    Thanks for the feedback!!

    Leave a comment:


  • RCjetdude
    replied
    Originally posted by paulsnapp View Post
    Mod is finished and works great - now on to painting and mounting on plane. I am wondering what the proper storage for the mod is? If it is stored cocked, does keeping the 4 springs compressed reduce their expansion force over time? If it is stored un-cocked, does keeping the trigger wire deflected cause it to develop a bend and not seat in the trigger slot properly over time? Also, is there anything (like corn starch or maybe baby powder) that needed to be used on the chute to allow it to open up more easily after being rolled up? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!!
    Good job! I prefer to store it "un-cocked" and personally don't use any powder on it but you could use corn starch and it wouldn't hurt a thing.

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    Mod is finished and works great - now on to painting and mounting on plane. I am wondering what the proper storage for the mod is? If it is stored cocked, does keeping the 4 springs compressed reduce their expansion force over time? If it is stored un-cocked, does keeping the trigger wire deflected cause it to develop a bend and not seat in the trigger slot properly over time? Also, is there anything (like corn starch or maybe baby powder) that needed to be used on the chute to allow it to open up more easily after being rolled up? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated!!

    Leave a comment:


  • paulsnapp
    replied
    Steve - here is a photo before the trigger wire was installed.

    Leave a comment:


  • RCjetdude
    replied

    quiverfulcreations@yahoo.com

    Leave a comment:

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