Official Roban 120mm A-10 Warthog V2 EDF Jet Thread

[jinkrat4791]

Hi JR-
I think it depends on the likelihood of you needing to get in there for any maintenance and/or storage or transport. If everything is accessible (fans, wiring, etc.) and your storage or transport needs don't require them to be removed, then I agree it's definitely an upgrade in terms of looks. Alternately, maybe a solution like the pics below will do both. The CGRC has the luxury of a hatch just forward of the nacelles so you can get at the screws but it doesn't look impossible on the Roban if the fuse is empty during construction - especially since the forward fuse separates. Just thinking out loud.

Glad you got the gear worked out.

Access wouldn't be a problem because the wing separates from the fuse, I'd have that as an access be point for wiring and such. Plus the big hatch on the front. Eveything would be fairly easy to access. I'm going to go for it, jus needed a little nudge in that direction. I followed your build thread on the cgrc a 10. I would have loved to get my hands on the Gen 2 version like yours. I talked to Chris but he jus wasn't into it. That kit has some incredible scale details. I remember you saying you came in at around 34lbs. That's a heavy bird but I've heard they fly well at that weight. How many flights do you have on her now

[Aros]

Yep, especially if you don't mind doing it and feel you wouldn't need to dismantle, I would go for it. The more you can do for scale I am always for.

[gravity tester]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it......

Hi JR-
I think it depends on the likelihood of you needing to get in there for any maintenance and/or storage or transport. If everything is accessible (fans, wiring, etc.) and your storage or transport needs don't require them to be removed, then I agree it's definitely an upgrade in terms of looks. Alternately, maybe a solution like the pics below will do both. The CGRC has the luxury of a hatch just forward of the nacelles so you can get at the screws but it doesn't look impossible on the Roban if the fuse is empty during construction - especially since the forward fuse separates. Just thinking out loud.

Glad you got the gear worked out.

[jinkrat4791]

I will propably do the same thing to mine after i've flown a few times and dialled her in. Would perhaps recommend a spackle type filler in the screw holes.
Hysol would be nearly impossible to remove if you would have to dismantle the nacelles at a later point. How about making plugs that fits snugly on the surface?

For me there would be no need to dismantle them, and by gluing them you can remove alot of the material on the bottom which is there for strength. So it would about negate itself on the weight deal plus it would be easier fishing wires in and out of the nacelles. I'll glass the screw holes from the inside and use a little filler on the outside, iv got a couple different ideas for filling in around the fuse but I haven't decided which way I'd do it yet. I think it will make a huge difference in the finished look

[sisaksen]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it. And remember I like doing this kinda thing do it's not a chore or anything? And with my snow cammo scheme going on most of the work will be covered, the little that isn't can be easily blended back in. I already had the matching paint and my two Grey's for the job mixed and ready to go

I will propably do the same thing to mine after i've flown a few times and dialled her in. Would perhaps recommend a spackle type filler in the screw holes.
Hysol would be nearly impossible to remove if you would have to dismantle the nacelles at a later point. How about making plugs that fits snugly on the surface?

[jinkrat4791]

Here is the gear retraction on mine.
It shouldn't take such a long time to retract?
Using 2S LiFe battery.

https://youtu.be/cqnTKesnjVI

That is really slow, doesn't mean you couldn't get by with it. The question is do you trust they are going to extend every time. This isnt a plane you want to belly land. l am concerned you may have trouble getting them up with wind resistance added. Especially with the gear doors. That make the drag even worse. But if u trust the system give it a go, see what happens. Personally I'd be looking into that upgrade

Pics of new motors and old motors together, and the new controller is very nice.

[jinkrat4791]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it. And remember I like doing this kinda thing do it's not a chore or anything? And with my snow cammo scheme going on most of the work will be covered, the little that isn't can be easily blended back in. I already had the matching paint and my two Grey's for the job mixed and ready to go

[sisaksen]

Here is the gear retraction on mine.
It shouldn't take such a long time to retract?
Using 2S LiFe battery.

https://youtu.be/cqnTKesnjVI

[jinkrat4791]

Sisaksen, my gear was rebuilt with bigger, stronger motors and a nice controller with door sequencers by Mitch at Down & Locked. He also machines all new parts for it including the trunnion. Only thing original is the frames. It cost $650 with the sequencer &500 without. Worth every penny. These are top quality retracts now and bullit proof too in my opinion. This much money in a plane, I want the wheels to come down every time I flip the switch. They are running on a standard 2s life battery at 6.6v. If you watch some of the YouTube vids of these things flying, in several of the vids they are flying around with the gear only partially retracted because the motors on the factory gear are not strong enough to raise the gear with the added wind resistance during flight. I saw you ask about an Electron replacement in the other thread. It's not much cheaper than the upgrade and it's quite a bit of work to fit them. With the upgrade they just bolt right back in

[sisaksen]

I hope this video plays. It took me forever to figure out how to post it. Finally got the nose gear squared away. Most everybody on the old rc groups thread has ditched the gear doors. They are a pain. I spent two weeks in gear door purgatory but after adjustment 600 or so I think I got it. I may make a change to the set up on the strut door but I may just move on and leave it as is. I couldnt just leave them off, going all out making my own weapons pylons so had to have the doors. Hope the vid plays

My gear takes 30 sec to retract. What battery are you using?
I use Etop 2S 2100mah LiFe batteries.
Haven't checked if the power goes through the Powerbox first. 😅

[jinkrat4791]

Ok, so I have a question, I've always heard that using digital and and analog servos in the same aircraft will cause problems. I I've never been clear on exactly what kind of problems but I've just avoided it. In this A 10 I went analog for all control surfaces but I have two micro digital servos one controlling the nose gear door and steering. Neither are connected to the receiver. Both are connected directly to the retract controller. They are even running off a separate life battery that only runs the retract controller and the lighting systems. I don't see how they could cause me any problems but i may be wrong. I'd rather ask a question than risk a problem so any opinions are appreciated

[jinkrat4791]

I hope this video plays. It took me forever to figure out how to post it. Finally got the nose gear squared away. Most everybody on the old rc groups thread has ditched the gear doors. They are a pain. I spent two weeks in gear door purgatory but after adjustment 600 or so I think I got it. I may make a change to the set up on the strut door but I may just move on and leave it as is. I couldnt just leave them off, going all out making my own weapons pylons so had to have the doors. Hope the vid plays

[jinkrat4791]

sisaksen What are the EDF's in yours ……… Changesuns?? If not, what and how drastic was the mod on the engine pods for them.

I'm using two jetfan 120's, all you have to do is remove a little of the nacelles framework and you can fit whatever fan you choose. It's not difficult as all

[sisaksen]

I weighed the plane just now.
Wings 3260g
Fuse 6850g

This is complete aircraft minus the lipos.
2 rx batteries was on board.
With 4x6S 5000mah 50C Admiral batteries the weight would be 13030g.
Not bad considering approximately 16kgs of thrust.

[sisaksen]

Sisaksen, I also would love to know where ur four flight packs are positioned in the fuselage for balancing and ur auw ready to fly with all packs installed.

Thanks
Jink

I was told this was a V3 model with upgraded center section and retracts.
I have also sent both MotionRC and Roban a mail asking to buy a new wing.
Motion responded with that this was a model sent to them by mistake by Roban and they won't stock parts or restock the model once they're sold out.
Roban haven't answered yet.
I have two JetFan 120 ECO's installed and with Hobbywing flyfun 160A ESC's.
It looks like they pop right in.
I haven't balanced it yet so i don't know where to put the batteries.
I'm waiting for the model file from the guy i bought it of, and when i get it i'll fire it up. 😊👍

[OV10]

sisaksen What are the EDF's in yours ……… Changesuns?? If not, what and how drastic was the mod on the engine pods for them.

[jinkrat4791]

Sisaksen, I also would love to know where ur four flight packs are positioned in the fuselage for balancing and ur auw ready to fly with all packs installed.

Thanks
Jink

[jinkrat4791]

Sisaksen, that's exactly what I've done is add a 20mm carbon tube right through the center section. It's easy to glue it to the two outer ribs on each side. I also plan to fill the center part of the wing to about 6 inches on either side of the wing saddle area and the entire leading edge cavity with a ridgid expanding foam after all my wiring is in place and tested. I believe that should add a good bit of strength.
As far as your one piece wing, if he hysoled the wing tubes into the sockets on both sides I don't see you being able to get them apart without destroying them. Anyhow she's a nice looking bird. And it looks like good electronics were used in the build, that is an upgraded retract controller I thought I saw. It's definitely not like the factory one I received with my kit. For what it's worth I spoke directly with the roban factory and they we're willing to sell me a new wing center section, I was considering buying one and opening it up and try to rebuild it but I decided against it. I'm sure you could get a wing from them if you wanted to start with a new one. In fact i believe there was someone on the rc groups thread that had a bunch of extra parts they were trying to sell. It's a long thread and would probably take forever to find the post. Whatever you decide to do I wish you the best of luck, we need some more good success storys about this model.

And BTW, what fan and motor combo are you using

Thanks

[sisaksen]

Hi guys!
I bought it fully built but unflown. Picked it up a week ago.
It's built "by the book" as per the manual without any modification.
The wing is glued together in one piece with Hysol.
My plan is to try to split up the wing again.
I fear i just might destroy the wing in the process.
I feel the wing is built too weak and i want to beef it up with a carbon tube spanning from aileron to aileron.
I also want a three piece wing because then i can transport it standing on the wheels.
The details on this kit is superb.
The only bad thing about this beauty is the center wing section which is too weak for yank and bank flying. Easily fixed by a 20mm carbon tube.
The plan is to use 20mm carbon tube as outer tubing as it fits perfectly in the hole in the center section behind the original wing tube. In the outer sections of the wing ribs with 20mm holes will have to be made.
Then a 18mm carbon tube will be acting as wing tube spanning from aileron to aileron.
After this upgrade i won't be concerned overstressing the wing.
Here is a few pictures from when i picked it up.

[Aros]

Thanks sisaksen I have updated the specs on the product pages.