Official Roban 120mm A-10 Warthog V2 EDF Jet Thread

[jinkrat4791]

Hell no I can use that slow actuator...haha I have a 1" air cylinder

yeah your right, they were really slow, wasn't really thinking about that, my down and locked upgraded gear moves much faster

[jinkrat4791]

I said I'd post pics of my outer panel attachment mod so here they are. If I had known I was going to have to open up the wing I may have done it differently. Since I have to open the center section and outer panels I've decided to do a double wing tube because of the weight and size of the model. Im going to use one of the 20mm tubes im adding to the center section as a sleeve for a second wing tube. Ilm going to add ribs to the outer panels to attach the additional wing tube. Iv already ordered the tubes so ill post new pics of the additional mods when completed

[jinkrat4791]

So im just curious, am I the only one trying to keep the 3 piece wing? Reaper, I know you said you are going one piece again. Skytrak, what are your plans. I've told you guys that we lost our field and our club fell apart. Most of the time when I fly im by myself. Its just more practical for me to be able to sit the plane down on its gear and attach the outer panels. I've moved this monster around with the wing attached and I don't like the idea of having to flip this thing over by myself every time I fly it.

[Skytrakvideo]

Jink,

I was going to make it a one piece wing....not sure now!
I notice you've got carbon tubes in the outer section, I like the mod with screw in wheel well, but will it crush and weaken the carbon? I'm using the aluminium tubes, might glue a carbon one inside those for added strength

[jinkrat4791]

Jink,

I was going to make it a one piece wing....not sure now!
I notice you've got carbon tubes in the outer section, I like the mod with screw in wheel well, but will it crush and weaken the carbon? I'm using the aluminium tubes, might glue a carbon one inside those for added strength

The hole is only drilled through one side of the tube, Im not particularly crazy about the idea of drilling a hole in the wing tube but the hole isn't on the stress point. For added strength I took a 6in carbon ferrell that was made to join two sections of the 18mm carbon tube together and hysoled it inside the wing joining tube centered on the joint where the two wing sections come together. After I drilled the hole I took thin CA and saturated the inside of the hole and took a small round file to open it back up to the size of the set screw. It doesn't put any pressure on the tube at all, it just prevents the tube from sliding out of the center section. The easiest way to get a perfect fit is to add the block to the sleeve on the center section, insert the tube, drill the hole, then add the blind nut and set screw, then insert the tube in the center section, tighten the set screw and then apply the epoxy to the sleeve on the outer panel and slide it on to the tube tightly and tape the two halves together until dry. Then you can back the set screw out and pull the two halves apart and your set. Just make sure you have the angle right to reach the screw with gear pods attached with a long ball driver, i bought one 15 in long just for attaching and removing the outer panel

[Reeper38]

Yeah I actually like that idea..damn if I hadn't epoxied the wings together I wouldve done that...thats a great idea to attach the wing like that..thats not going anywhere...put I do handle the a-10 myself and its not bad flipping it by yourself ..I made a tall stand out of pvc...to help

[Reeper38]

What are yall doing for brakes? I'm gunna try and adapt the jp 95mm ones ..I shimed my main about 3/16 to help with the difference so itll keep the same aoa. Im still waiting on the package and haven't seen what needs to be done...I know the pin is 8mm so ill have to drill...has anyone else tried? The only other option is intercaro or something like that I think they are called but couldn't find the 4" in stock anywhere...I already took the struts to the machine shop once to be milled so I figured I can find a way to make em work...any advice...if your not flying in grass you definitely need breaks ..that thing will move for days...

[Reeper38]

So when painting your plane with acrylics. Should you put the clear coat on then weather then another clear coat? Last time I just painted and didn't use a clear coat and it was getting messed up quickly also I got the right ghost greys this time ...know one said anything but I know yall wanted too...haha I didn't know the navy had there own ghost grey..haha I guess thats why it has the blue hue....

[gravity tester]

Hi Reeper- Xicoy makes a 100mm main wheel with brake that should be decent scale for your Roban. I used the 90mm version on my CGRC A-10 - a little small for true 1/9th but close enough and better than off roading every landing. . The axles are 6mm but you might consider having a local shop make a custom stepped or tapered axle, as opposed to drilling the bearing out. Just a thought.

https://www.xicoy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35_41_44&products_id=426&osCsid=485vijfc5s5na0rbq2ob70t613

Cheers.

[eawings]

I used the Large Robart Pin hinges since I did the Fowler Flaps. Those regular Dubro hinges limits the travel of your control surfaces..

[eawings]

I did the prototype some 6-7 years ago when it was first introduced. The rest were done with Fowler flaps including an articulated pilot.

[eawings]

When we first did the prototype model, we tested different motors and finally ended up using the Scorpion HK4035-560KV motor with 8mm shaft. We had asked Scorpion to have this particular motor done basically for the Roban A-10. I believe they are no longer available. However, I have to make my recommendations to replace your factory plastic provided EDF units. The photos above in camo scheme was well made including all the mods I could think about. CG was spot on and weighted 31 lbs. The aircraft took off successfully. Upon reaching 100 feet,these powerful motor's fan blades shattered and motors popped out on both sides of the engine nacelle.

I suggest using the Shubeller composite 120mm Fan casing. Since the Scorpion motor with 8mm shaft is no longer available, I am using the HET 560 motor for this one final build I am doing. You may call EffluxRC and let them build the EDF unit that includes precision fan blade balancing if you decide to go thatroute. . It'll cost an extra thousand but it'll be worth it.

[jinkrat4791]

I did the prototype some 6-7 years ago when it was first introduced. The rest were done with Fowler flaps including an articulated pilot.

So I have a question. If the prototype was flyable what happened to quality control during production. I was sold a V1 by RC Aerodyne and blatantly lied to saying it was a V2. V1 V2, I doesn't really matter. We were all sold airframes that fall apart mid air on the first flights. Whoever is responsible for the release of this model owes us all something for the extra man hours and materials we had to come out of pocket for. And im not trying to be the Grinch on Christmas but facts are fact.

[jinkrat4791]

So when painting your plane with acrylics. Should you put the clear coat on then weather then another clear coat? Last time I just painted and didn't use a clear coat and it was getting messed up quickly also I got the right ghost greys this time ...know one said anything but I know yall wanted too...haha I didn't know the navy had there own ghost grey..haha I guess thats why it has the blue hue....

Reaper, if you go to hobby lobby, they have the Testor's line of paints like we all used on our little plastic models when we were kids. They are the closest thing you can buy off the shelf that matches the actual military colors without having paints mixed. Its not the cheapest route but the paint is durable. I always used a matt clear that I had an automotive paint store here in town mix for me, but that was on gas powered models. I had planned on not using a clear coat on this to save weight. I rarely use actual paint when weathering. Check out some YouTube videos on weathering with pastels. Its way easier than an airbrush and the end result looks way more realistic. If you want it to be permanent you would have to clear coat it. And BTW, I've looked extensively into breaks and Gravitytester is right about the Xicoy breaks. Look into those

[jinkrat4791]

So I have a question. If the prototype was flyable what happened to quality control during production. I was sold a V1 by RC Aerodyne and blatantly lied to saying it was a V2. V1 V2, I doesn't really matter. We were all sold airframes that fall apart mid air on the first flights. Whoever is responsible for the release of this model owes us all something for the extra man hours and materials we had to come out of pocket for. And im not trying to be the Grinch on Christmas but facts are fact.

I apologize for the above statement. I followed the RCgroups thread for 2 years before I actually bought my kit. Although no one had actually put one in the air, the problems with the construction were obvious. I did my research and sort of knew what I was getting into so I cant complain with good conscious. It did feel good to vent a little though. It will be worth the effort when all is said and done. She is a big pretty bird when all put together. Merry Christmas everyone and have a nice safe holiday

[Reeper38]

Jinx i already recieved the jp 95mm they are so close in size they will be fine.when I tried to order from xicoy my debit card wouldn't work over seas so I said screw it and ordered jps ..they will be fine im taking the axels to a local machine shop and having new ones made that will be longer and step down from 8mm to 6 and mill the hole in the struts..and jp also sells the springs for the struts in the right sizes so I ordered a bunch of different sets of stiffnesses to see what works best..

[jinkrat4791]

Jinx i already recieved the jp 95mm they are so close in size they will be fine.when I tried to order from xicoy my debit card wouldn't work over seas so I said screw it and ordered jps ..they will be fine im taking the axels to a local machine shop and having new ones made that will be longer and step down from 8mm to 6 and mill the hole in the struts..and jp also sells the springs for the struts in the right sizes so I ordered a bunch of different sets of stiffnesses to see what works best..

When you figure out what springs work best let me know, iv got to replace mine too, I fly mostly off grass so I was going to not use breaks for now but my wiring harness i built are wired for breaks so I can add them easily later. I have my carbon tubes and other materials I need to modify the wings. I've got a week off coming up after the first of the year. I plan on spending it tearing the wings apart and reinforcing them. I think I have a solid idea for the mod. Kinda taking ideas from you and Skytrak and adding my own twist to it. I think it will work just fine. If not I guess I'll buy a skymaster

[Reeper38]

Yeah im actually gunna buy a skymaster this summer hopefully ...I just got word that they are gunna release a 160" length xxxl f-15 for twin k210s if that really happens then im going with skymaster..if not im getting the fbjets 110" f-15c...this will be my last edf..im going with the turbines from now on...i ordered the hsd L39 with the swiwin 80n to use to get my waiver...

[Skytrakvideo]

There’s a few new ideas on the RC Groups.com build thread, seal the wheel wells so air pressure can’t build up in the wing was one!
Reeper....WOW.... massive F15, the small ones fly really well apparently, you’ll need a truck to take it anywhere ha ha!!!

[jinkrat4791]

There’s a few new ideas on the RC Groups.com build thread, seal the wheel wells so air pressure can’t build up in the wing was one!
Reeper....WOW.... massive F15, the small ones fly really well apparently, you’ll need a truck to take it anywhere ha ha!!!

I honestly don't see how sealing the wheel wells would actually help considering how deep they are inside the LG pods. I wouldn't do anything more than whats necessary to keep the weight down. However, I still think the leading edge cavity in the center section should filled with expanding foam so it could be filled and then the wheel wells shaved out. Im positive that the leading edge is deforming under pressure and that it is one of the weak links. If you're adding several ribs then it might be unnecessary but it could still be a problem even so. Im no aeronautical engineer but iv built quite a few models over the last 30 or so years. Never owned a foam airplane and not crazy about using it on a build like this. When I open it up if I can't practically glass the inside of the leading edge back to the spar on the top and bottom then its getting foam