Official Roban 120mm A-10 Warthog V2 EDF Jet Thread

[Reeper38]

What are yalls ideas on the 2 piece fuse ? I have a couple but don't know if its needed...was just thinking epoxy and the screws and blind nuts that came with it may be good enough.but if ya think about it 6 batteries and a retract and flight gear might be a little much for a seam that has no structure

[Skytrakvideo]

I've removed paint from joint, going to use good slow cure epoxy, not putting screws in, might weaken the fuselage? Will clamp it while epoxy dries so no gap visible. Then I'll put a couple of wide layers (maybe 6 inches) of carbon cloth/epoxy on the whole joint inside. I've temporarily removed the ply battery tray as it's in the way of the joint.

I prefer to use slow setting epoxy (60 minute working time) for carbon and fibreglass as quick setting just doesn't give me enough time to do a 'proper job'

[Reeper38]

I'm definitely putting the screws with the blind nuts...and clothing the inside...I don't trust that seam with all the batt.weihht in front...the bolts are hardly noticeable when painted this new kit they sent me has little blind nuts and Allen bolt as the other kit was wood screws and ply nuts...also can someone post pics of theres balanced with batts.where they go..the last one I built I put all 4 6s on the batt.tray and the 2 2s in the nose and still had to add 1.5lbs in the nose...I want to figure a configuration with the batts so I don't need to add anything if possible

[jinkrat4791]

What are yalls ideas on the 2 piece fuse ? I have a couple but don't know if its needed...was just thinking epoxy and the screws and blind nuts that came with it may be good enough.but if ya think about it 6 batteries and a retract and flight gear might be a little much for a seam that has no structure

I glassed the joint with two layers of cloth 3in out each side from the seam and have a former cut that will butt up to the lip on the front half from behind that will be glassed in with 1in wide strips of cloth from both sides. That should tie the two halves together without having to use screws

[jinkrat4791]

Jink,

Cutting the centre open underneath is the easy option as less cosmetic repairs are needed, I just left a 20mm edge all around, to close it up afterwards I'll glue a balsa or thin ply strip around then glue the cutout piece back in.

Thanks skytrak, I get it now. That was a pretty good idea, i may go that route and just cut a small hole in the top on each side to beef up the LG mounts. I wish I had a copy of those templates full size. Do you have anyway to scan them and turn them into a pdf file or something, thanks for the info. Im not sure I can successfully remove the top skin on mine because I've already been in there with a epoxy gun

[Reeper38]

Yeah that'll hold for sure

[Skytrakvideo]

Jink,

Double click the plywood template image, then right click and save image.
You should be able to print it then, should be A4 size.
Stick it to a piece of card and do a trial cutout and fit, if it's correct size just print another and stick it to a piece of ply and cut the holes, then jigsaw around the edges.
I used a 20mm forstner wood bit, but any sharp hole saw will do.
Best to cut slightly bigger then sand down to fit.

If your 20mm tube is already glued in, cut a slot in the ply from bottom so it fits over your tube, and then the bit you cut out can be glued back in underneath once the ply is in place.

[jinkrat4791]

Jink,

Double click the plywood template image, then right click and save image.
You should be able to print it then, should be A4 size.
Stick it to a piece of card and do a trial cutout and fit, if it's correct size just print another and stick it to a piece of ply and cut the holes, then jigsaw around the edges.
I used a 20mm forstner wood bit, but any sharp hole saw will do.
Best to cut slightly bigger then sand down to fit.

If your 20mm tube is already glued in, cut a slot in the ply from bottom so it fits over your tube, and then the bit you cut out can be glued back in underneath once the ply is in place.

Ok, thanks. I think i have it though. I sent the pic to my iPad and enlarged the pic until the lines on the notebook paper you drew them on lined up with the lines of a piece of notebook paper I laid across the screen and I then traced it out. It would have been easier to print it, i didn't think to check if I could, luckily i haven't glued in the tube yet

[jinkrat4791]

I've decided to run two 20mm carbon tubes through the center section and go with skytrak's templates for the ribs under the wing saddle and cut a small access hole over the LG plates so i can add two half ribs on top of the plate to tie it into the spars. Im going to leave at least one of the carbon tubes extended out to pass into the outer panel to act as an additional anti-rotation pin as i have already done a mod for outer wing panel retention. Im keeping it as a three piece wing because that was one of the features that attracted me to this model to begin with

[Reeper38]

What are u doing to attach the wing jinx? Is it a thick plate like pheonix models does? The outer panels need to be cut open also and glass the leading and trailing edges...

[jinkrat4791]

And btw, im not sure if I've told you guys this but if you use thread locker on any of the bolts that came with the hardware pack you won't be able to remove them. I tried heating them with a soldering iron to help break them loose and that wouldn't work either. The heads strip out even with high quality Allen wrenches. I learned that the hard way on my nose gear. I decided to take it out to paint the inside of the wheel well and it took me three evenings with a dremel to remove it

[Reeper38]

So on my last hog I used the spektrum a6380 hv mg servos on the flaps and ailerons and the spektrum a7050 thin wing servos on the 2 elevator halfs and rudders so all but 2 thin wing servos survived the last crash so I was thinking of trying a single for the elevator...what should I use

[jinkrat4791]

What are u doing to attach the wing jinx? Is it a thick plate like pheonix models does? The outer panels need to be cut open also and glass the leading and trailing edges...

When I get home tonight ill take some pics of my wing attachment mod, but I basically glued the new carbon rods in the outer panels and I took a 1 1/2 in basswood block and cut it to length so it would fit between the two outer ribs on the center section. Then I drilled a 22mm hole in the center all the way through from one end to the other. I cut it in half on a band saw at just the right angle so I could epoxy it to the wing tube sleeve on the center section where it faces down out of the wheel well. Then I put the outer panel on and drilled a small hole through the block and sleeve and through one side of the carbon tube. Then I took a blind nut with a really large head on it that I found at lowes , drilled three small holes in it. Then I attached it to the block with epoxy and three small wood screws. I can take a 15in ball wrench and reach the small retention bolt. The small hole i drilled in the tube is not on the stress point but for piece of mind I took a 6in protruded carbon ferrel that was made to attach two of the 18mm tubes together an hysoled it into the inside of the wing tube centered on the joint where the two wing halves come together. Its very solid, the only thing that I wasn't comfortable with was the anti rotation pin but I'm solving that issue with one of the tubes I'm gluing into the center section

[Reeper38]

I actually understood all that haha. Still don't feel comfortable doing it though I really can't afford to loose this one it sounds like it's going to work for sure..im just going to make a 1 giant wing bag haha but if you don't trust that anti rotation pin then do you trust the locator pins on the center section? They are the same pins...I was thinking about beefing that up with another between those 2 but they seem really strong.and your right when you do the little tube through the landing gear just leave it hang out about 3/8-5/8

[Reeper38]

Alright this is my plumbing for the gear...my question is what do I need to run a cylinder from the canopy to be operated on a channel? Is the a 1 way valve i can get for just the canopy that doesn't need another servo?

[Reeper38]

[jinkrat4791]

Alright this is my plumbing for the gear...my question is what do I need to run a cylinder from the canopy to be operated on a channel? Is the a 1 way valve i can get for just the canopy that doesn't need another servo?

Did you save your old retracts, you could take the motor and screw out of it and use it as an actuator to move the canopy up and down, and I guess now I'm gonna have to make mine functional, if you have a good idea how to do it post some pics, someone sent me a pm and I can't open it, I can't post pics either. It says ive exceeded the file size. I just got a new phone, i didn't have that problem before

[Reeper38]

Hell no I can use that slow actuator...haha I have a 1" air cylinder

[Reeper38]

Whats everyone's thoughts on the hinges for all the surfaces is anyone using the ones that it came with

[jinkrat4791]

Whats everyone's thoughts on the hinges for all the surfaces is anyone using the ones that it came with

I replaced them with Dubro heavy duty hinges and im thinking I should pin them to be safe, the only thing iv actually hinged is the inboard flaps. I really prefer Robart hinge points but I don't think they would work well on this model