Official Roban 120mm A-10 Warthog V2 EDF Jet Thread

[jinkrat4791]

Sisaksen, I also would love to know where ur four flight packs are positioned in the fuselage for balancing and ur auw ready to fly with all packs installed.

Thanks
Jink

[OV10]

sisaksen What are the EDF's in yours ……… Changesuns?? If not, what and how drastic was the mod on the engine pods for them.

[sisaksen]

Sisaksen, I also would love to know where ur four flight packs are positioned in the fuselage for balancing and ur auw ready to fly with all packs installed.

Thanks
Jink

I was told this was a V3 model with upgraded center section and retracts.
I have also sent both MotionRC and Roban a mail asking to buy a new wing.
Motion responded with that this was a model sent to them by mistake by Roban and they won't stock parts or restock the model once they're sold out.
Roban haven't answered yet.
I have two JetFan 120 ECO's installed and with Hobbywing flyfun 160A ESC's.
It looks like they pop right in.
I haven't balanced it yet so i don't know where to put the batteries.
I'm waiting for the model file from the guy i bought it of, and when i get it i'll fire it up. 😊👍

[sisaksen]

I weighed the plane just now.
Wings 3260g
Fuse 6850g

This is complete aircraft minus the lipos.
2 rx batteries was on board.
With 4x6S 5000mah 50C Admiral batteries the weight would be 13030g.
Not bad considering approximately 16kgs of thrust.

[jinkrat4791]

sisaksen What are the EDF's in yours ……… Changesuns?? If not, what and how drastic was the mod on the engine pods for them.

I'm using two jetfan 120's, all you have to do is remove a little of the nacelles framework and you can fit whatever fan you choose. It's not difficult as all

[jinkrat4791]

I hope this video plays. It took me forever to figure out how to post it. Finally got the nose gear squared away. Most everybody on the old rc groups thread has ditched the gear doors. They are a pain. I spent two weeks in gear door purgatory but after adjustment 600 or so I think I got it. I may make a change to the set up on the strut door but I may just move on and leave it as is. I couldnt just leave them off, going all out making my own weapons pylons so had to have the doors. Hope the vid plays

[jinkrat4791]

Ok, so I have a question, I've always heard that using digital and and analog servos in the same aircraft will cause problems. I I've never been clear on exactly what kind of problems but I've just avoided it. In this A 10 I went analog for all control surfaces but I have two micro digital servos one controlling the nose gear door and steering. Neither are connected to the receiver. Both are connected directly to the retract controller. They are even running off a separate life battery that only runs the retract controller and the lighting systems. I don't see how they could cause me any problems but i may be wrong. I'd rather ask a question than risk a problem so any opinions are appreciated

[sisaksen]

I hope this video plays. It took me forever to figure out how to post it. Finally got the nose gear squared away. Most everybody on the old rc groups thread has ditched the gear doors. They are a pain. I spent two weeks in gear door purgatory but after adjustment 600 or so I think I got it. I may make a change to the set up on the strut door but I may just move on and leave it as is. I couldnt just leave them off, going all out making my own weapons pylons so had to have the doors. Hope the vid plays

My gear takes 30 sec to retract. What battery are you using?
I use Etop 2S 2100mah LiFe batteries.
Haven't checked if the power goes through the Powerbox first. 😅

[jinkrat4791]

Sisaksen, my gear was rebuilt with bigger, stronger motors and a nice controller with door sequencers by Mitch at Down & Locked. He also machines all new parts for it including the trunnion. Only thing original is the frames. It cost $650 with the sequencer &500 without. Worth every penny. These are top quality retracts now and bullit proof too in my opinion. This much money in a plane, I want the wheels to come down every time I flip the switch. They are running on a standard 2s life battery at 6.6v. If you watch some of the YouTube vids of these things flying, in several of the vids they are flying around with the gear only partially retracted because the motors on the factory gear are not strong enough to raise the gear with the added wind resistance during flight. I saw you ask about an Electron replacement in the other thread. It's not much cheaper than the upgrade and it's quite a bit of work to fit them. With the upgrade they just bolt right back in

[sisaksen]

Here is the gear retraction on mine.
It shouldn't take such a long time to retract?
Using 2S LiFe battery.

https://youtu.be/cqnTKesnjVI

[jinkrat4791]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it. And remember I like doing this kinda thing do it's not a chore or anything? And with my snow cammo scheme going on most of the work will be covered, the little that isn't can be easily blended back in. I already had the matching paint and my two Grey's for the job mixed and ready to go

[jinkrat4791]

Here is the gear retraction on mine.
It shouldn't take such a long time to retract?
Using 2S LiFe battery.

https://youtu.be/cqnTKesnjVI

That is really slow, doesn't mean you couldn't get by with it. The question is do you trust they are going to extend every time. This isnt a plane you want to belly land. l am concerned you may have trouble getting them up with wind resistance added. Especially with the gear doors. That make the drag even worse. But if u trust the system give it a go, see what happens. Personally I'd be looking into that upgrade

Pics of new motors and old motors together, and the new controller is very nice.

[sisaksen]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it. And remember I like doing this kinda thing do it's not a chore or anything? And with my snow cammo scheme going on most of the work will be covered, the little that isn't can be easily blended back in. I already had the matching paint and my two Grey's for the job mixed and ready to go

I will propably do the same thing to mine after i've flown a few times and dialled her in. Would perhaps recommend a spackle type filler in the screw holes.
Hysol would be nearly impossible to remove if you would have to dismantle the nacelles at a later point. How about making plugs that fits snugly on the surface?

[jinkrat4791]

I will propably do the same thing to mine after i've flown a few times and dialled her in. Would perhaps recommend a spackle type filler in the screw holes.
Hysol would be nearly impossible to remove if you would have to dismantle the nacelles at a later point. How about making plugs that fits snugly on the surface?

For me there would be no need to dismantle them, and by gluing them you can remove alot of the material on the bottom which is there for strength. So it would about negate itself on the weight deal plus it would be easier fishing wires in and out of the nacelles. I'll glass the screw holes from the inside and use a little filler on the outside, iv got a couple different ideas for filling in around the fuse but I haven't decided which way I'd do it yet. I think it will make a huge difference in the finished look

[gravity tester]

I'm strongly considering hysoling the nacelles to the fuselage. The reason being is I am really leaning towards getting rid of those giant screw access holes in the top of the the thing and filling and blending where it's mates up to the fuse. To me it's got a giant foamie look to it, just screwed together. It wouldn't be difficult and it won't add enough weight to be of any concern. It won't kill me on time either.

Do y'all think it will improve the looks enough to be worth it......

Hi JR-
I think it depends on the likelihood of you needing to get in there for any maintenance and/or storage or transport. If everything is accessible (fans, wiring, etc.) and your storage or transport needs don't require them to be removed, then I agree it's definitely an upgrade in terms of looks. Alternately, maybe a solution like the pics below will do both. The CGRC has the luxury of a hatch just forward of the nacelles so you can get at the screws but it doesn't look impossible on the Roban if the fuse is empty during construction - especially since the forward fuse separates. Just thinking out loud.

Glad you got the gear worked out.

[Aros]

Yep, especially if you don't mind doing it and feel you wouldn't need to dismantle, I would go for it. The more you can do for scale I am always for.

[jinkrat4791]

Hi JR-
I think it depends on the likelihood of you needing to get in there for any maintenance and/or storage or transport. If everything is accessible (fans, wiring, etc.) and your storage or transport needs don't require them to be removed, then I agree it's definitely an upgrade in terms of looks. Alternately, maybe a solution like the pics below will do both. The CGRC has the luxury of a hatch just forward of the nacelles so you can get at the screws but it doesn't look impossible on the Roban if the fuse is empty during construction - especially since the forward fuse separates. Just thinking out loud.

Glad you got the gear worked out.

Access wouldn't be a problem because the wing separates from the fuse, I'd have that as an access be point for wiring and such. Plus the big hatch on the front. Eveything would be fairly easy to access. I'm going to go for it, jus needed a little nudge in that direction. I followed your build thread on the cgrc a 10. I would have loved to get my hands on the Gen 2 version like yours. I talked to Chris but he jus wasn't into it. That kit has some incredible scale details. I remember you saying you came in at around 34lbs. That's a heavy bird but I've heard they fly well at that weight. How many flights do you have on her now

[jinkrat4791]

GravityTester, I remember early in the other thread on rc groups that Chris 3D printed a set of weapons pylons for a guy's roban a 10. He may still do small stuff like that from time to time. I was just going to make my own out of foam and glass but I wouldn't be against spending a little money for his cause they are already all detailed out with panel lines and rivits and such. Can you tell me how much you paid for your pylon set just so I have an idea of about what they would end up costing me?

Thanks,
Jink

[gravity tester]

Hi Jink-
My set of pylons is molded plastic, not 3D printed so I am not sure about that deal. The only thing I ever got from Chris G. that was 3D printed was a one-off copy of the ACES II seat that he had sitting in a spare parts box. I am not sure if he ever got around to molding it for production. Anyway, it's been a while but I vaguely remember buying a set of the pylons plus some other molded parts (cannon, nav light frames, various bumps and blisters, etc) as a package for around $100.

Yes, it did end up a little heavier than I thought it would at 34 lbs, but I am very happy with the performance on the JF110's (10s) - it moves quite well and very scale. Doubt I could hover, but I was never really all that good at it anyway. ;-) Kidding, of course. Anyway, officially I have 2 flights on it. The issue for me last season was more scheduling between work and access to fields where I feel comfortable flying it. The closest one is an hour and a half away in Muncie (AMA HQ). My local club is close but not really a place I would consider. Beautiful grass runway but the pucker factor curve is too steep for me with trees, overall visibility and runway length. A better pilot might have no issue. Me, I'm not that dude. I do belong to the Rosewood RC club as well, the site of the EDF Jet Jam but that field is 2+ hours away. Bottom line is a trip to the field to fly the beast requires some more complex logistics than my FW version.

She's flyable, but I am currently changing out the landing gear controller to an updated, more reliable version from Dave's RC, adding brakes (yay!) and changing out the nose gear servo. I have burned out 2 micro digital servos (Savox). The gear is free and doesn't bind at all. I think the smaller digital trying to hold center is the issue. Anyway, I am switching to a larger analog servo but it requires a little mount surgery. Also adding a few more scale details (bomb lugs, weathering). I'll be ready whenever this home detention thing is lifted and I can get to the field.

Dan

[jinkrat4791]

Hi Jink-
My set of pylons is molded plastic, not 3D printed so I am not sure about that deal. The only thing I ever got from Chris G. that was 3D printed was a one-off copy of the ACES II seat that he had sitting in a spare parts box. I am not sure if he ever got around to molding it for production. Anyway, it's been a while but I vaguely remember buying a set of the pylons plus some other molded parts (cannon, nav light frames, various bumps and blisters, etc) as a package for around $100.

Yes, it did end up a little heavier than I thought it would at 34 lbs, but I am very happy with the performance on the JF110's (10s) - it moves quite well and very scale. Doubt I could hover, but I was never really all that good at it anyway. ;-) Kidding, of course. Anyway, officially I have 2 flights on it. The issue for me last season was more scheduling between work and access to fields where I feel comfortable flying it. The closest one is an hour and a half away in Muncie (AMA HQ). My local club is close but not really a place I would consider. Beautiful grass runway but the pucker factor curve is too steep for me with trees, overall visibility and runway length. A better pilot might have no issue. Me, I'm not that dude. I do belong to the Rosewood RC club as well, the site of the EDF Jet Jam but that field is 2+ hours away. Bottom line is a trip to the field to fly the beast requires some more complex logistics than my FW version.

She's flyable, but I am currently changing out the landing gear controller to an updated, more reliable version from Dave's RC, adding brakes (yay!) and changing out the nose gear servo. I have burned out 2 micro digital servos (Savox). The gear is free and doesn't bind at all. I think the smaller digital trying to hold center is the issue. Anyway, I am switching to a larger analog servo but it requires a little mount surgery. Also adding a few more scale details (bomb lugs, weathering). I'll be ready whenever this home detention thing is lifted and I can get to the field.

Dan

I feel you with the field choice situation. Our club had a nice field, plenty of room to fly mine. It was in the industrial park area of my town. About 9 months or so ago the owner of a fuel distribution company about half a mile from our field complained to mayor of our little town claiming if one of our little airplanes were to hit one of his giant metal gas storage tanks that it would surely cause a catastrophic explosion. Seeing that they operate on the 'good ol boy system' here our field was shut down the next day. We have been looking for a suitable spot for another field but haven't been able to work anything out as of yet. Most of the members have started selling off all their planes so I believe the club is just going to disband.
Fortunately for me I have a 40 acre field right across the street from my house and I keep a 100ft runway cut year round. I can fly all my other planes there but there's no way I'd fly something like my a 10 there. I have permission from the land owner but he told me not to turn it into a club type situation or I'd get the boot. I have a friend or two I let come fly with me but strictly electric planes only. I have to find a good spot to maiden my A 10 but there's no rush. I can probably do it at the little local airport which would be ideal. I do hope we can pull the club back together but it doesn't look good

And BTW, what brakes are you looking at and how much weight do you think it will add, I was going to try mine without brakes at first. Weight being the main issue, cost being the second. On grass it won't be an issue, but a paved runway, it would probably roll into the next county. I'd really like to have them though.