Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

[Radar-Guy]

Disappointing B-2 performance in grass today.

I removed the steering from rudder board pins to a separate channel as I always have done for rate and trim control. This was a mistake as the first several attempts were uncontrollable after the first steering correction input. This resulted in uncontrollable 90 degree direction changes and aborts.

Steering was reconnected to the rudder board pin where I discovered steering is gyro stabilized with very high gain, I suspect 100% on Yaw. The next several attempts were controllable and made straight runs. However, there was too much drag from wheels on the grass runway and or not enough thrust. The B-2 would accelerate to its max speed and stop accelerating. This speed was not enough to get rotation and airborne.

My next step will be to find a way to reduce wheel drag, hopefully by finding an easy strut and wheel replacement for the mains, ideally with one large wheel. Maybe a larger nose wheel would help also and provide some positive pitch attitude on the ground.

The other option is to make more thrust.

Suggestion welcome.
Gary

I‘d suggest to check posts #536, 552 and 679 of this thread. More thrust won’t be needed with these modifications.

Good luck

Frank

[viper1gj]

Disappointing B-2 performance in grass today.

I removed the steering from rudder board pins to a separate channel as I always have done for rate and trim control. This was a mistake as the first several attempts were uncontrollable after the first steering correction input. This resulted in uncontrollable 90 degree direction changes and aborts.

Steering was reconnected to the rudder board pin where I discovered steering is gyro stabilized with very high gain, I suspect 100% on Yaw. The next several attempts were controllable and made straight runs. However, there was too much drag from wheels on the grass runway and or not enough thrust. The B-2 would accelerate to its max speed and stop accelerating. This speed was not enough to get rotation and airborne.

My next step will be to find a way to reduce wheel drag, hopefully by finding an easy strut and wheel replacement for the mains, ideally with one large wheel. Maybe a larger nose wheel would help also and provide some positive pitch attitude on the ground.

The other option is to make more thrust.

Suggestion welcome.
Gary

[jasmith41]

Yeah, putting the little rascals back on is also a problem. What I do is to put a small dab of FoamTac on my finger tip, touch with opposing thumb so both fingers have goo on them. Blot the "C" clip with one finger, pinch with the thumb so that the C clip gets a little glue on both sides. Poke the C clip onto the axle and slide finger away, leaving the C clip on the axle. I then use a small hemostat to squeeze the clip onto the axle. Helps to have a magnet on the hemostat in case the C clip slips. However, when the clip is gooed up with glue, if it slips it kinda just sticks there.
RC Informer suggests to put a dab of FoamTac on each C clip on a brand new plane so they don't pop off from all the vibration. It's horrible to try to land with one wheel missing.

Learned that one early on...
Took my A10 to the field just to taxi it for the first time last year, got her all hooked up, powered up the fan, she went 3' and the nose wheel took off diagonally...
It was really pretty funny... had no intention of flying it, but just the idea that the wheel came off could have been taken as a sign, but i wasn't discouraged...
I fly the sh*t out of it and it's one of my favs...

[xviper]

Thanks - that's what i use to get the off, but those little wheel axle ones are a bugger to get back on when you can't see and shake a lot... :)

Yeah, putting the little rascals back on is also a problem. What I do is to put a small dab of FoamTac on my finger tip, touch with opposing thumb so both fingers have goo on them. Blot the "C" clip with one finger, pinch with the thumb so that the C clip gets a little glue on both sides. Poke the C clip onto the axle and slide finger away, leaving the C clip on the axle. I then use a small hemostat to squeeze the clip onto the axle. Helps to have a magnet on the hemostat in case the C clip slips. However, when the clip is gooed up with glue, if it slips it kinda just sticks there.
RC Informer suggests to put a dab of FoamTac on each C clip on a brand new plane so they don't pop off from all the vibration. It's horrible to try to land with one wheel missing.

[jasmith41]

sorry guys - thoroughly reading isn't my strong-point either...

[jasmith41]

I wish this would stop. Seems to happen every week. It needs sun for a few days to dry out the field. As you can see from the windmill, no wind, but ..................

wow - that really sucks, but we had that here last week / weekend...
it's been 60 here the last couple days and close to 80 tomorrow. def going to go flying early...

[jasmith41]

Anything hard, pointy and sharp with a magnet on it near the tip will do. I use a glass etching pen but they don't sell them anymore. Here's something that would work:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...kaAmECEALw_wcB

Just don't poke yourself.

Thanks - that's what i use to get the off, but those little wheel axle ones are a bugger to get back on when you can't see and shake a lot... :)

[GliderGuy]

On the downside = BUMMER

On the upside = Opportunity to modify the B-2 to snow skis.

-GG

[xviper]

I wish this would stop. Seems to happen every week. It needs sun for a few days to dry out the field. As you can see from the windmill, no wind, but ..................

[GliderGuy]

Hi TwistedGrin….

The agreement seems to be 8 mm reflex on the elevators and 4 mm reflex on the ailerons.

I wish this wind would stop!


-GG

[xviper]

Anything hard, pointy and sharp with a magnet on it near the tip will do. I use a glass etching pen but they don't sell them anymore. Here's something that would work:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...kaAmECEALw_wcB

Just don't poke yourself.

[jasmith41]

And good luck getting those E clips off and back on...
Anyone have any helpful hints from Heloise on that...?
I'm doing it / have done it, but don't know if there's a better way...

[TwistedGrin]

Yes on the plastic bag ....saved me many a hard days night.......if you order those clips for spares.....naturally you will have dozens that are incorrect size.

Large plastic bag is simple to use.....when you can

Still waiting to maiden my B2 as the winds have been very high for the second week in Fort Worth Texas region

I have completed the speed break clam shell closed adjustment from 60% Rudder travel (cruise gap at 45mm), set up my 7mm elevator reflex, put in three settings of expo all at the same travel rates, confirmed the Gyro toggles to the three settings (Basic Gain - Attitude Lock - Trainer)......will only fly in Basic Gain. Checked for main gear spring free function movement. Confirmed all control surfaces move correctly both from transmitter and gyro inputs. Glued on the tail peice and slotted the section for the clear dorsal fin for maiden. Fabricated a tail peice protector and mounted to the foam shipping storage transit box. Deployd the non slip for the flight battery.

Will apply for a loan for funds to fill up the truck with enough gas to get to and from Thunderbirds Field in Benbrook Texas from my hanger: www.fwthunderbirds.org

TwistedGrin

[TH95147]

Also do it in a clear ziploc bag so you don't lose the eclip

[kallend]

I recommend this simple tool, the clipped rear end of an X-Acto blade. A strong magnet nearby might help in catching the clip.

Great idea - thanks. Price is right too!

[Radar-Guy]

While on the subject of tools, does anyone recommend a tool for removing those tiny E-clips found in trailing link landing gear legs, steerable retract pins, etc?

I recommend this simple tool, the clipped rear end of an X-Acto blade. A strong magnet nearby might help in catching the clip.

[kallend]

While on the subject of tools, does anyone recommend a tool for removing those tiny E-clips found in trailing link landing gear legs, steerable retract pins, etc?

[Aros]

A must have tool for removing/installing ball links. No reason to use needle nose or flat head screwdrivers and risk breaking the ball link or servo arm.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/be...31475141148785

Ordering. Thanks!

[GliderGuy]

Just placed an order! Thanks for the tip!

-GG

[Evan D]

Yeah, ball link pliers, amazes me that people don’t have them. Edit. I don’t like those in the link, there are others thinner and straight I like much better. Also has two half round parts to grip piano wire/ gear struts/ push rods and a serrated part. Like these, not condoning use of that site…

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Blade-Deluxe-Ball-Link-Pliers-All-BLH100/675513972?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=17761

ordered repair parts from Motion for mine yesterday, says Monday may 2nd delivery. Normally 2-3 days, now 12?… Edit, update now says this Saturday!