Official Freewing 90mm PLAAF J-10A EDF Jet Thread

[Tygerman42]

You need to switch the wing connector into the in black box, swap them. Then do the same for the canards, then poof! They work. It is in the manual page 13

[morganjw1]

Viper, Thanks for the reply. I also believe something is wrong woth the blue box set up from Motionrc. Yhe RC Geek is in our club and is the product director for Motionrc. If I cut get it figured out, I will check with him. Tha ks again for yhe reply

[xviper]

Total novice with planes with canards. Just assembled the 8s J10 and having some issues. When I pull back on the stick to give it up elevator, the elevons go up, but the ailerons go down and the leading edge of the canards point down. As I said, Im new with this set up. Ut that doesn't seem to be right. It seems when pulling up elevator, the ailerons and elevons are fighting each other. Am I roght or just totally.crazy

I do not have this plane but I do have something very close in terms of how all the control surfaces work - FMS Rafale and FlyFans J-20. As such, if someone with a J-10 responds, pay more attention to that person. In case nobody with a J-10 responds, you can read the following to gain a bit of understanding of how it all works.

No, you are not crazy. Something is wrong with the way your control surfaces are hooked up and/or programmed. In AIL input, both rear control surfaces on each side should function together and opposes the other side. Canards (if so desired, operate opposing - Right AIL should make the right canard go down, left one go up and visa versa). In ELE input, ALL 4 rear control surfaces should go in unison - Up for up stick and DOWN for down stick. The canards should do same UP for up, DOWN for down stick. (PS. In the Rafale, the inner rear surfaces are called "flaps" and the outer ones are called "ailerons". However, that's to distinquish between the two as delta wings really don't have "flaps".)

What yours is doing where the rear outer and inner control surface on each side opposes each other is like what my Rafale does. This is a sort of "speed brake" feature that only does this through a switch. In this mode, AIL and ELE still act the same but to a more limited throw. Speed brakes are used during landing when on final. The Rafale is set up and programmed to do this out of the box.
Looking at the J-10 manual, it doesn't actually show this "speed brake" feature as an option. It is something that the end user decides that the feature is wanted, then set up, programming and mixes are done accordingly to make it happen. Addtionally, the choice of how the canards work is also an option at the owner's discretion. Some don't want the aileron function and only have elevator function on the canards. "Speed brakes" can be a very dangerous thing if you are not used to landing an EDF jet. When deployed, it's like thowing out an anchor and the drag can slow the plane down dramatically. The pilot must counter with much more throttle than usual on landing or the plane will stall.

In the "control box", where all the servos are plugged in, you should be able to see that each port is labelled. The manual doesn't show a very detailed picture of the control board, so you need to use a light and possibly a magnifying glass to see the the labelling. Each plug should also have a tag so you know what control surface that is. Make sure everyting is plugged in where they should be in order for your plane to work as intended out of the box. Options like speed brakes and how the canards work is a personal choice and thus, will require further knowledge and help.

[morganjw1]

Total novice with planes with canards. Just assembled the 8s J10 and having some issues. When I pull back on the stick to give it up elevator, the elevons go up, but the ailerons go down and the leading edge of the canards point down. As I said, Im new with this set up. Ut that doesn't seem to be right. It seems when pulling up elevator, the ailerons and elevons are fighting each other. Am I roght or just totally.crazy

[a_earls@cox.net]

The nose gear steering input on my multi control box stopped working after 6 flights. I bypassed it with a y cable strait to the receiver (along with rudder) to get steering back. Has anybody else had this issue? Should I worry about this being a sign that the multi control box is going bad?

[Andy B]

Yeah did that, 1 beep then 4 beeps and accept... not really an issue, it slows up nice.

But would be cool to get it working

[Evan D]

The reverse came on as default on all mine. Maybe double check that?

That what I have, -100 +100 on throttle, -100 +100 on the 2 position switch, but it doesn't work.

[Andy B]

On both my 6 and 8S the ESC was blue. Looking back I don't see a question I didn't answer. Looks like I was also the first to respond...

I was wrong about the only difference being the motor, as shortround says the housing for the fan is silver on the 8s and black on the 6s.

For reverse you need to plug the yellow signal wire in a spare receiver slot and assign a switch to that channel. If a 2 position switch +100 and -100 for the travel. If a 3 way you'll want +100/+100/-100, not 0 in the middle. You don't do any thing with the throttle, not sure what you mean by matching the throttle.

That what I have, -100 +100 on throttle, -100 +100 on the 2 position switch, but it doesn't work.

[Andy B]

No i fly on a core, but thanks for the offer... all good its set up to the manual other than the canards.

If you've any tips from the stock set up, I'd appreciate that.

[shortround91]

You may not want to fly on my rates but for reverse etc should be golden

[shortround91]

No need to be a dick about it... You are completely missing my question and focusing on trying to belittle me with your vast experience... of course I'm messing with you too 🙂

I have it all set up with canards independent of the control board.

The esc is blue, so looks like it's the 8s, great news.

I am somewhat struggling with reverse set up, I've set reverse on the esc and have end points matched on throttle and the reverse switch, but can't get it to reverse.

I can't find any clear set up tutorials online either so will just leave it unplugged.

I can share my set up if your on a Spektrum radio

[Evan D]

On both my 6 and 8S the ESC was blue. Looking back I don't see a question I didn't answer. Looks like I was also the first to respond...

I was wrong about the only difference being the motor, as shortround says the housing for the fan is silver on the 8s and black on the 6s.

For reverse you need to plug the yellow signal wire in a spare receiver slot and assign a switch to that channel. If a 2 position switch +100 and -100 for the travel. If a 3 way you'll want +100/+100/-100, not 0 in the middle. You don't do any thing with the throttle, not sure what you mean by matching the throttle.

No need to be a dick about it... You are completely missing my question and focusing on trying to belittle me with your vast experience... of course I'm messing with you too 🙂

I have it all set up with canards independent of the control board.

The esc is blue, so looks like it's the 8s, great news.

I am somewhat struggling with reverse set up, I've set reverse on the esc and have end points matched on throttle and the reverse switch, but can't get it to reverse.

I can't find any clear set up tutorials online either so will just leave it unplugged.

[Andy B]

No need to be a dick about it... You are completely missing my question and focusing on trying to belittle me with your vast experience... of course I'm messing with you too 🙂

I have it all set up with canards independent of the control board.

The esc is blue, so looks like it's the 8s, great news.

I am somewhat struggling with reverse set up, I've set reverse on the esc and have end points matched on throttle and the reverse switch, but can't get it to reverse.

I can't find any clear set up tutorials online either so will just leave it unplugged.

[Evan D]

Both my 6 and 8 came with the blue.

The ESC should be Blue ( hopefully) and just look inside the bottom cheater if the housing ( EDF ) is black that’s 6s if it’s metal ( silver ) it’s 8s

[Evan D]

As I said there are 8S batteries. They do tell you that you will need an adapter and they even give you a link. I can't wait to hear your next complaint, that you may need to adjust the push rods? I'm kidding to some extent, welcome to the forums.

Requires:

• 5 Channel radio (6 for thrust reversing) - select a minimum 5 channel radio from our Aircraft Radio Collection
• 5 Channel receiver - select a minimum 5 channel receiver from our Aircraft Receiver Collection
• TWO 4 Cell 14.8V 5000 mAh LiPo batteries with EC5 connector - we recommend Admiral Pro 5000mAh 4S 14.8V 60C LiPo Battery with EC5 Connector Multi-Pack (2 Batteries) - OR -
  ONE 6 Cell 22.2V 5000 mAh LiPo battery with EC5 connector AND ONE 2 Cell 7.4V 5000 mAh LiPo with EC5 connector - EPR50006 AND EPR50002E
• EC5 2-to-1 series adapter - BenchCraft EC5 2 to 1 Series Adapter with 10 Gauge Silicone Wire
• 6 Cell compatible battery charger - select a minimum 6 cell (6S) charger from our Charger Collection

eed the adapter.

[Andy B]

Nonproblem soldering heavy guage wire, I don't buy connectors i make them. I'm surprised they don't sell the model pnp as advertised... but hay ho I'll make one.

I really didn't want to risk damage to the model by removing the bottom if they've sent the wrong one...

[shortround91]

Here ya go super easy way, here are the 2 screws remove thin straight blade or whatever both areas rock lift until it comes loose. All of mine have been sticky the first removal

[Evan D]

The only difference is the motor. Same ESC in both versions and as noted you need to have a proper series adapter if you will use multiple batteries to get 8S. This is not included. There are 8S batteries that won't need the series adapter.

The cover is not glued on. There are screws and the cover may be sticky.

If I were you I would assume that if you got a box marked 8S version it's 8S. Another way to test is simply put a charged 6S in it and see how much thrust you have.

[shortround91]

The cover is glued on.

8s there normally a series connector in the fuse for 8s?

No you will need a series connector if running 2 4s packs don’t get the small one like this and wire wise I ordered mine with 8g instead of the normal 10g. I run 2 4s packs much cheaper in my opinion SMC 49/4200 hivolt packs 4400 regular SMC packs and the occasional 59-5100 SMC hi volt packs are the sizes I fly with. The 49/4200 4400’s are great plane crazy agile the 59/5100 you can feel the weight turns a little more sluggish. Not bad but can be felt, I did trim my canard servo ends to make sure they didn’t rub using the 59/5100’s.

[Andy B]

Definitely glued on... OK I'll make one and see if it kills the motor