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Official Freewing 90mm EDF Stinger 90 Thread
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Originally posted by 1968Flying View PostThank you.
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Originally posted by swordsn View PostThe measurements are 70mm X 205mm or 2.75 x 8 inches .I'm not sure how to post a picture,sorry
CG should be between 110-120mm from leading edge.
Picture of the battery bay with the 6000 attached:
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
Agreed on the size, but also the height will accommodate a battery about 40-45mm in height. I use the Admiral 6000mah 50C battery or the Roaring Top 6250mah 35C battery and it fits fine. Curlyculp, you said you want to use a 6000mah 6C battery, not sure what type that is but a 6C won't cut it. EDF's draw a lot of amps/watts to give enough power, you'll need at least a true 35C or better battery.
CG should be between 110-120mm from leading edge.
Picture of the battery bay with the 6000 attached:
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Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post
Agreed on the size, but also the height will accommodate a battery about 40-45mm in height. I use the Admiral 6000mah 50C battery or the Roaring Top 6250mah 35C battery and it fits fine. Curlyculp, you said you want to use a 6000mah 6C battery, not sure what type that is but a 6C won't cut it. EDF's draw a lot of amps/watts to give enough power, you'll need at least a true 35C or better battery.
CG should be between 110-120mm from leading edge.
Picture of the battery bay with the 6000 attached:
Where is your receiver mounted?
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Originally posted by curlyculp View PostWith same battery, in the same spot, I can barely get the hatch closed. And the magnets seem weak. Like it might pop off. AND it's very nose heavy. Can't move the battery back any further, so I'll have to add weight to the tail.
Where is your receiver mounted?Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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Oh, one last thing, not sure why you have a problem with the hatch closing, mine has no problem. I did add two new rectangular rare earth magnets to the hatch and it holds much better, but then I've done that with a lot of planes.Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View PostOh, one last thing, not sure why you have a problem with the hatch closing, mine has no problem. I did add two new rectangular rare earth magnets to the hatch and it holds much better, but then I've done that with a lot of planes.
Agree with everything you say about weight and all.
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Added an additional rare earth magnet to the hatch. Rearranged the battery compartment a little and all fit fine. Two ounces of weight in the tail. Maidened it yesterday. Flew beautifully. Only a few clicks of trim. 6000MA 6 cell, at 50% power cruised very nicely. The whole reason I got the thing was I had a 90mm fan and ESC from a previous model. Well, this one got better flight time AND performance. I LIKE the color. Easy to see. Good size makes it easy to follow.
Got a little PIO on the second landing. (pilot induced oscillations) Came down on the nose a little hard and broke the scissors. Ordered a new nose strut. But the original spring seemed weak to me. Too easy to bottom it out.
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Yes, you should have a light module too. Listed in spare parts on Motions page and on pg 15 of the manual, I believe I had a supplement in my instruction book about wiring it.
Originally posted by swordsn View PostI bought this jet used last week. It has a V2 sequencer in it. Is that stock? I don't see it mentioned in the manual.
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Originally posted by curlyculp View PostAdded an additional rare earth magnet to the hatch. Rearranged the battery compartment a little and all fit fine. Two ounces of weight in the tail. Maidened it yesterday. Flew beautifully. Only a few clicks of trim. 6000MA 6 cell, at 50% power cruised very nicely. The whole reason I got the thing was I had a 90mm fan and ESC from a previous model. Well, this one got better flight time AND performance. I LIKE the color. Easy to see. Good size makes it easy to follow.
Got a little PIO on the second landing. (pilot induced oscillations) Came down on the nose a little hard and broke the scissors. Ordered a new nose strut. But the original spring seemed weak to me. Too easy to bottom it out.
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostYes, you should have a light module too. Listed in spare parts on Motions page and on pg 15 of the manual, I believe I had a supplement in my instruction book about wiring it.
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Originally posted by swordsn View Post
Yes I do have a light module. Apparently they don't show anything about wiring in the standard manual. There is a wire that is attached to the battery connection, it has a male servo plug on it...not sure where that plugs in the receiver.?????
For a small fee, I'll give you the lowdown on the light controller. Just joking, I'm getting a even more batty than I usually am (and that's saying something) being stuck in the house unable to get my frustrations out by flying lawn darts into the ground!
Attached are 2 photos, the first from the Light controller manual and the 2nd from the gear sequencer manual - you will need both to get the nose landing gear light to work properly.
1st off, the male servo plug coming off the battery connection is for the UBEC module which provides power to the servos (and everything else, including the lights). The Stinger ESC does not have an internal BEC, so FW attached a UBEC, 8 amps I think, for power. You should notice that this wire goes to a small square "electronic thingy" (yes that's a technical term, hah), which is the UBEC. Plug the male servo lead into the receiver into any empty port, I plugged it into the 1 port which is the binding port. If you need to bind the receiver also, use a y-connector, plugging the UBEC lead into one end and the bind plug into the other-then after binding you can remove the y-connector and plug the UBEC directly into port 1.
2nd, on photo 1, the input B from the light controller should already be plugged into the Landing gear cabin sequencer V2 (photo 2) at what I have labeled #3, the LED light controller channel, if not, plug it in. Then the wires (black and red) from the nose gear light should be plugged directly into Light 1 on the light controller. Hope that makes sense. So, the Landing gear sequencer's input is in channel 5 (if that's your gear channel), sending electricity through it via the #3 light port to the LED light controller, which sends it via port 1 Light 1 to the nose gear light. The light will only come on when the nose gear is down, which is why it needs to get the electrical signal from the landing gear sequencer first.
Man, after reading that, even I have to say WHAT THE HELL IS HE TALKING ABOUT. I do hope it makes a little sense, if not, try to follow the manual if you can. There's also the trial and error method, but just make sure the wires from the nose gear lights are plugged into the LED controller. If you plug them into power without the controller, you'll burn out the lights, and don't ask me how I know that cause I'll have to tell you that some moron I know, without naming names, did it on another plane and found out that after 2 seconds if incredibly bright landing lights, they burned out. OK, no big secret, it was me.
Hugh "Wildman" Wiedman
Hangar: FL/FW: Mig 29 "Cobra", A-10 Arctic, F18 Canadian & Tiger Meet, F16 Wild Weasel, F4 Phantom & Blue Angel, 1600 Corsair & Spitfire, Olive B-24, Stinger 90, Red Avanti. Extreme Flight-FW-190 Red Tulip, Slick 60, 60" Extra 300 V2, 62" MXS Heavy Metal, MXS Green, & Demonstrator. FMS-1700mm P-51, Red Bull Corsair. E-Flite-70mm twin SU-30, Beast Bi-Plane 60", P2 Bi-Plane, P-51.
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