Official Freewing 70mm BAe Hawk T1 Thread

[John Wood]

Vdanger, sorry Vance wrong spelling of your name!

[John Wood]

Vince, you certainly have done some work on this front gear, I think the angle of the fulcrum may also have an effect when the wheel digs into the grass which may not be allowing a smooth deflection, just a thought, but I haven't flown mine yet so I can't talk! I have only tried it on my back garden and the wheel seems to bounce nicely on the uneven grass but I am using 2.5" wheel which isn't to scale and doesn't fully retract so it is a compromise as always. I am hoping to maiden soon but am apprehensive as I don't want to return home with a bag of foam bits! as the plane looks so nice at the moment
Best wishes

[RCjetdude]

finally getting it to at least look white...it will need at least one more primer coat...ill never paint again lol

There you go. Looking good.

[Ron1950]

heck that's cleaned up...should have seen it before

[crankestein]

It seems you are running out of space, like those tv shows of hoarding...

[Ron1950]

finally getting it to at least look white...it will need at least one more primer coat...ill never paint again lol

[Ron1950]

thanks vdanger

[vdanger]

One other note, in the third picture above it shows a small wire that wraps around the strut.

That wire is very important, it is a stop to keep the nosewheel from flexing back too far.

In my previous post (#381) I said that my nosewheel dug into the grass and my plane came to a stop in about three feet, I determined that that was because the nosewheel flexed back too far and allowed the aluminum strut itself to contact the ground.

Vance

[vdanger]

Be sure to read the captions when you click on the photos, I didn't realize they don't show on the post and they help a lot.

[vdanger]

ok thanks looking forward to seeing the duel nose wheel

Ron,

Since that last post didn't really give you a closeup of how the dual wheel strut was made, I thought I'd give you a detailed description and a few closeup shots.

1. Cut 3/8" aluminum rod to length and drill 3mm hole down the center to accept the cutoff end of the existing "chickenleg" nosewheel strut. Tap top end of rod for 6/32 set screws to secure it to "chickenleg" stub.
2. Cut slit in other end of 3/8" rod for 1/8" carbon fiber plate.
3. Cut carbon fiber plate to size and hinge in slit with 2/56 bolt.
4. Drill bottom end of CF plate for 4/40 rod axle for dual wheels.
5. Put several ponytail rubberbands around strut and you are done!

[vdanger]

Mechanical Stop for the Freewing Hawk Front Nosegear.

The trials and tribulations of trying to operate my Freewing Hawk off of a grass field continue.

The other day I flew my hawk at my grass field and had a good flight until the landing. The mains touched down nicely but as soon as the nosewheel came down it caught in the tall grass and the plane came to a complete halt in about 3 feet!

The force of the sudden deceleration bent the nosewheel strut back and my flying day was over.

It occurred to me that since the nosewheel strut on this plane retracts forward, I could put a hard stop behind it to take the landing force and keep the front strut from bending.

The pictures below explain the procedure:



Plywood support glued to back of nosegear bay.



Side view



Screw used as adjustable stop for nosegear strut. Now base of strut and retract mechanism does not have to take brunt of the landing forces.



Completed upgrade. By the way, also upgraded to duel nosewheels to help with rolling thru the grass. Since this is a T45, its scale!



Nosewheel shown retracted.

Hope this gives you guys some ideas!

Vance

[Ron1950]

ok thanks looking forward to seeing the duel nose wheel

[vdanger]

going to paint the gray t1 as a t45 with callie graffics thought about getting the duel wheel fms f18 front strut,,,
anyone have the specs on the strut from the f18? prob has too big a hole for the pin from the t1 ... any idears>?

Ron,

I made a shock absorbing dual nosewheel strut out of 3/8" aluminum rod and carbon fiber plate for my Hawk/T45c. Its pretty easy to make with simple hand tools. You can see pictures of it in my next post.

Vance

[Ron1950]

going to paint the gray t1 as a t45 with callie graffics thought about getting the duel wheel fms f18 front strut,,,
anyone have the specs on the strut from the f18? prob has too big a hole for the pin from the t1 ... any idears>?

[Hardway]

Welcome to the forum. Squawk guys are the best!!! Glad you are here!

[PHOENIXFLIER]

Just in the process of finishing my Hawk, which has gone together a treat.
A few observations / questions:
The model did not come with any instructions for the esc, I downloaded the instructions and set up using the programme to make sure everything was set ok.(Ihave had models in the past where the esc was not programmed correctly......ooops!.
Is it best to have the fan braked or not?
From the reports I have read the cg is set to a "safe" position, but could this be a bit to far forward resulting in the many "bouncy landing" reports?.
I have sent off for some 40mm low bounce wheels as the stock items appear very hard.
How does it fly inverted? If the cg is to far forward it will drop like a stone!.
I have tested all the servos which seem chatter free. Has anybody had a failure?.
Its the first time I have used the magic "Blue Box", are these generally reliable?.
Great forum, and a great model.
Sure I will have many more questions.....but thanks to all in advance.

[Regatoni5]

Changing to a smaller nose wheel helped with what?

With bouncing on landing. I couldn’t land it without bouncing for the life of me. Didn’t have issues with my 80mm hawk though.

[vdanger]

It still allows air through but more importantly restricts debris. I also changed the nose wheel to .25in smaller diameter and it helped tremendously.

Changing to a smaller nose wheel helped with what?

[Regatoni5]

I did think about mesh over the intakes but thought it may restrict the air flow to the fan but perhaps not?

It still allows air through but more importantly restricts debris. I also changed the nose wheel to .25in smaller diameter and it helped tremendously.

[Regatoni5]

I did think about mesh over the intakes but thought it may restrict the air flow to the fan but perhaps not?

It still allows air through but more importantly restricts debris. I also changed the nose wheel to .25in smaller diameter and it helped tremendously.