Official Freewing 70mm BAe Hawk T1 Thread

[cashmoneybrother]

Yes, flourns 4500 I also fly admiral 4000 and Zee 4000 and get similar flight times ( 5-6) flying at around half Throttle (some high speed passes) I also did a test at home. i took my different packs and ran them for 5 minutes at half throttle. Flouron came in at 28% , Admiral at 25% and Zee at 24%. My timer is set at 5 minutes and i let it run all the way down before I start making my landing approach.

[CVA59]

Usually 5-6 but we both have gone over 7.

And you are doing this on the Floureon 4500 packs??? I'm sorry man, I'm just amazed to hear this. I'm running the Admiral 5000's and get 3 to 3-1/2 minutes with a moderate flying style.

[cashmoneybrother]

WOW!!!! You are getting 6-7 minutes????

Usually 5-6 but we both have gone over 7.

[CVA59]

Im at 30% all the way around. Probably going to back that down at some point. They really do fly nice even at half Throttle. We are flying on flourons 4500 and are getting 6 minutes can probably go 7 if we're more conservative

WOW!!!! You are getting 6-7 minutes????

[cashmoneybrother]

Im at 30% all the way around. Probably going to back that down at some point. They really do fly nice even at half Throttle. We are flying on flourons 4500 and are getting 6 minutes can probably go 7 if we're more conservative

[CVA59]

Can you guys please share what expo you are using?

[cashmoneybrother]

These planes fly great!

[cashmoneybrother]

Made some rails and mk82 bombs from purple foam and balsa

[cashmoneybrother]

There are 2 green decals that come in the base gray hawk. Does anyone know where they are supposed to go???

[cashmoneybrother]

Maiden her on Saturday ran of the runway on take off broke the nose and a wing tip. A liitle glue and put 3 good flights on her. She all fixed ip now ready to join the fleet!

[Alpha]

Cashmoneybrother, that's a really sleek paintjob, I like it!

gazza I'm almost afraid to ask, what happened to your first Hawk?

[cashmoneybrother]

[gazza]

just put my second one together, ive given it a coat of gloss varnish, just to make it shine like the full size ones do

[GBLynden]

I love all of my RC Jets, but this is by far and away the best IMO! The lights and great flight characteristics make it the one I am least nervous to have fun with every time!

[Gtrman60]

I finally maidened my Freewing Bae Hawk t1a.
First Flight, I had the battery to far forward, and consequently it was, let's just say, ...a fast flight. I landed okay, no scuffs, no incidents, but it being my first jet EDF flight (as I am a World War II warbird flyer,) I was a little bit uneasy.
A few days later, I dialed down the rates a little bit on the ailerons and added to tad more expo. I also moved the battery back (aft) about three quarters of an inch.
Flights 2, 3, and 4 have been spectacular. I now feel confidence in flying jets and I'm ready to move up to my other jet birds that I have in my hangar. Thank you motion RC in Freewing!!!!!

[Jakob]

Why would captain mike say to not use any slow down feature on flaps in the video ?

[GBLynden]

This was one of a bunch of great flights with a smooth landing I have had this week. This is one of the must haves if you like to fly EDF Jets!

[CVA59]

Answering your questions:
I am running the improved set, which I assume is the optional with "oleo" struts.
I cannot turn the wheel, in the sense of moving the steering arm, but given that what I assume the pin (or strut shaft) with too much tolerance to the hub hole, there is some small "steering" movement when you try to hand turn it.
All other surfaces/servos (including the steering) and not acting funny.

I agree with your suggestion. However, after verifying that the shaft has a tight adjustment to the retract hub, I will reinstall the original wire strut, and if this fails again, I will go into your procedure.
On the other hand, I have no issues with binding. I know that some transmitter brand is a permanent binding pain in the neck, but not mine. Not a single issue in 8 years, in 5 different models.
Wiring may be an issue. Unfortunately, the quality of the connectors some times are not as expected them to be. Anyway, all your suggestions are good, and I appreciate your response. Will report after the problem is fixed and which was the culprit.

No worries, I hope you can find the problem. It's sad the guys who make these things cannot close in on their tolerances. I have a new nose retracts at home that is so sloppy it is embarrassing to me and I didn't eve make it, LOL.

[Richrfl]

Do you use any expo on rudder to help smooth the travel out around center?

Yes, I am using 32%

[Richrfl]

I have this same plane and so far I have yet to have any issues.

Are you running the wire type struts or the improved set?

Can you turn the wheel/strut by hand?

Are any other control surfaces/servos acting strange?

So, I would suggest to start with, remove the strut completely from the fuse. Inspect and tighten EVERY set screw on it and on the servo. if they all are tight then you can pretty much eliminate that as the possible culprit. Now, with the strut still removed BUT PLUGGED in, get someone to hold the plane for you (upside-down in a cradle if you have it, it needs to be secure and preferably outside), run it up to full speed gradually and cycle the strut. Do this under several different speed settings. Essentially just replicate the problem on takeoffs but on your workbench. If it appears to be working fine, re-install the strut back in the plane and repeat this process. Whatever the problem is, it should show up more than likely under these tests. Check your linkage really good with the strut extended AND retracted. Make sure there is no binding anywhere. If you still find nothing wrong, I am pretty much at a loss other than you could possibly having a defective strut. One other tip, start over from scratch and run down every servo lead, connection, and check your receiver. Part of me wants to think you could have some kind of radio/servo, receiver glitch although I really doubt it. I know some of this is overkill but, the best way to find a problem from my experience is to start from scratch just as if you were putting it together out of the box.

I have had problems similar to this and every time something was getting in a bind or poor electrical connection. I am currently dealing with the same problem with my Rebel right now. After all my testing, it was determined the internal motor gear in the strut was sticking.

Answering your questions:
I am running the improved set, which I assume is the optional with "oleo" struts.
I cannot turn the wheel, in the sense of moving the steering arm, but given that what I assume the pin (or strut shaft) with too much tolerance to the hub hole, there is some small "steering" movement when you try to hand turn it.
All other surfaces/servos (including the steering) and not acting funny.

I agree with your suggestion. However, after verifying that the shaft has a tight adjustment to the retract hub, I will reinstall the original wire strut, and if this fails again, I will go into your procedure.
On the other hand, I have no issues with binding. I know that some transmitter brand is a permanent binding pain in the neck, but not mine. Not a single issue in 8 years, in 5 different models.
Wiring may be an issue. Unfortunately, the quality of the connectors some times are not as expected them to be. Anyway, all your suggestions are good, and I appreciate your response. Will report after the problem is fixed and which was the culprit.