You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official Freewing 70mm BAe Hawk T1 Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Andre B
    replied
    Originally posted by JamesonC View Post

    Which setup do you currently have in it? The 2210kv inrunner that comes in the HP version is a great upgrade if you don't already have that one.

    https://www.motionrc.com/collections...inrunner-motor
    Yes I pulled the trigger on the 2210kv inrunner. Have yet to fly it when the weather in New England gets a bit better!

    Leave a comment:


  • long-love-rc
    replied
    Originally posted by SanExup View Post
    long-love-rc That's unfortunate! The fan and parts aren't that expensive if you look at the spare parts under the Bae Hawk. I would just replace it all. It's around $10. Better than worrying about fixing the old one and having it happen again or be imbalanced from wrenching on it.
    The new fan came this week. However, as I worried, I wasn't able to properly tighten it up on the motor shaft. This is a friction gripping mechanism. When I tried to tighened the locking nut up, the fan and collect turned together, So no effective tightening.

    The painful part is there is NO way to stop the fan from turning. Using fingers, just no enough force. Then I use a wood piece on a blade root to stop it, that simply broke the blade. That fan was damaged.

    Then I removed the damaged fan, put on the last fan which flied off last time. That fan is still good. This time I only used hand to tighten it up as much as I can, plus some loctite. Without surprise, when testing, it flied off again.

    Finally, I cut a slot on the collet. Insert a flathead screw driver into the slot, with the intention to stop it from turning. This somehow worked a bit, I believe I tighten it more what I can do with hands. However, the metal(those collect are made of junk metal) are so soft, the screwdriver eventually scrapped off some metal. So I don't expect very tight gripping. Now I am waiting for the loctite to cure, then to test it again.

    Lesson: for such kind of situation, it is better to just buy a whole EDF assembly, other than replacing the fan only.

    Leave a comment:


  • RCFlyer271
    replied
    Originally posted by Adam1985 View Post
    Hi all,

    I’m looking for a little advice on a good colour match for the Red Arrows Hawk. After a few flights the model has a few scuffs and scrapes and I want to fix it up with some paint; I’ve been looking at the Tamiya XF-7 Red (I like Tamiya acrylic paints as I know they won’t melt foam) but I was wandering if anyone had tried this paint and whether it matched well, or if not, what other options there might be.

    Many thanks

    Adam
    I always take a part to Lowes or Home Depot and they'll do a color match sample can for about $5 or less. Match is usually really good and you get a lot of paint for touch ups.

    Leave a comment:


  • long-love-rc
    replied
    Originally posted by SanExup View Post
    long-love-rc That's unfortunate! The fan and parts aren't that expensive if you look at the spare parts under the Bae Hawk. I would just replace it all. It's around $10. Better than worrying about fixing the old one and having it happen again or be imbalanced from wrenching on it.
    Certainly I just ordered a replacement, ban and adaptor. Now I am worrying how to properly tighten it up... This kind of adaptor is not really robust, from my experience so far.

    Leave a comment:


  • SanExup
    replied
    long-love-rc That's unfortunate! The fan and parts aren't that expensive if you look at the spare parts under the Bae Hawk. I would just replace it all. It's around $10. Better than worrying about fixing the old one and having it happen again or be imbalanced from wrenching on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • long-love-rc
    replied
    HOW to repair? Bae Hawk, the EDF fan flied off.

    I have a Freewing Bae Hawk, which I purchased last year. It only has four flights on it so far, and a few on-ground testing... It is about 90% new, except a little bit of bend on the main gear which still functions fine though.

    I am considering to fly it tomorrow which will have wonderfully calm air! I will fly in local RC club which has a run way for EDF the first time.

    So I think it would be good if I measure how long it can safely run on a 4000mAh battery with 70% throttle, or 40%...

    I put it on ground, nose against a pillow, throttling up... At about 2 minutes 50 seconds, I heard the running loud sound suddenly gone! Stop to check, the fan flied off the motor! what a bummer.

    Here are the pictures, it is exceedingly hard to loose up the fan adaptor to put it back to the motor shaft. Any good idea?

    I used a clamper to hold the adaptor, which actually damaged it, and using a wrench from another side, try to loose it up... but not working. The adaptor rotated following my wrench, despite I tried hard to use clamper to stop the rotating.

    It is already damaged, I believe. I am asking here just out of curious, how to deal with this situation? thanks a lot!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ndrew3
    replied
    Originally posted by Adam1985 View Post
    Hi all,

    I’m looking for a little advice on a good colour match for the Red Arrows Hawk. After a few flights the model has a few scuffs and scrapes and I want to fix it up with some paint; I’ve been looking at the Tamiya XF-7 Red (I like Tamiya acrylic paints as I know they won’t melt foam) but I was wandering if anyone had tried this paint and whether it matched well, or if not, what other options there might be.

    Many thanks

    Adam
    I've heard there are hobby shops that do color matching, not sure specifics though and never done it myself. Maybe worth calling around a bit to see?

    Anyways, this is currently my go-to EDF for sure. Love the way it flies and lands. Here's my third flight with it:

    Leave a comment:


  • JamesonC
    replied
    Originally posted by Andre B View Post
    Has anyone attempted a motor/edf upgrade. Am now very comfortable with this jet and could use a little extra to take off from grass. Any feedback is welcome.
    Which setup do you currently have in it? The 2210kv inrunner that comes in the HP version is a great upgrade if you don't already have that one.

    At Motion RC we carry the largest selection of electric and gas powered radio control (RC) planes, boats, buggies, cars, helicopters, tanks, trucks, and much more. We also offer a huge selection of lipo batteries, chargers, ESCs, gas engines, motors, radios, and servos. Shop our lowest prices with free shipping.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andre B
    replied
    Has anyone attempted a motor/edf upgrade. Am now very comfortable with this jet and could use a little extra to take off from grass. Any feedback is welcome.

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    Originally posted by Adam1985 View Post
    (I like Tamiya acrylic paints as I know they won’t melt foam)
    There is no concern about EPO foam melting from paint. Not even acetone will melt EPO.

    Leave a comment:


  • Adam1985
    replied
    Hi all,

    I’m looking for a little advice on a good colour match for the Red Arrows Hawk. After a few flights the model has a few scuffs and scrapes and I want to fix it up with some paint; I’ve been looking at the Tamiya XF-7 Red (I like Tamiya acrylic paints as I know they won’t melt foam) but I was wandering if anyone had tried this paint and whether it matched well, or if not, what other options there might be.

    Many thanks

    Adam

    Leave a comment:


  • Richrfl
    replied
    Originally posted by Adam1985 View Post
    Hi all,

    Sorry for the dumb question but can someone point me in the right direction on the MotionRC website regarding a new fan blade for the 70mm Red Arrow Hawk T1. I can see two types of 70mm fan blade, the first is called a ‘reverse’ flow blade and is in the spares section for this model. The same blade is available but doesn’t state reverse.

    So two questions, which blade do I need, the non reverse or reverse blade? Final question is what does it mean by reverse? That the motor spins the opposite way and so to produce rearwards thrust the blades are angled in a reverse manner to normal blades?

    Many thanks for your help!

    Adam
    I guess this is the fan you need: https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...cted-fan-blade
    I haven't seen any reverse fan in the model spare parts.
    I am surprised you found there a reverse blade offering for the RAH T1. Normally you use a blade turning counter-clockwise when you look at the plane from the front. Even a reverse blade could be used, for what you have to swap one pair of the connections from the motor to the ESC, I do not know (may be someone smarter than me can give a more accurate answer) if the plane has any construction design which compensates for the torque produced by the fan. In Normal propeller driven planes they offset the axis of the motor relative to the plane longitudinal axis to compensate for the rotation. Reverse fan are normally used in dual EDF engines so that each one compensates for the torque of the other.

    Leave a comment:


  • Adam1985
    replied
    Hi all,

    Sorry for the dumb question but can someone point me in the right direction on the MotionRC website regarding a new fan blade for the 70mm Red Arrow Hawk T1. I can see two types of 70mm fan blade, the first is called a ‘reverse’ flow blade and is in the spares section for this model. The same blade is available but doesn’t state reverse.

    So two questions, which blade do I need, the non reverse or reverse blade? Final question is what does it mean by reverse? That the motor spins the opposite way and so to produce rearwards thrust the blades are angled in a reverse manner to normal blades?

    Many thanks for your help!

    Adam

    Leave a comment:


  • Randy H
    replied
    Hi, I maiden my Hawk today and it flew great with no trim adjustment needed. This is a first for me because all the models I have flown since I started in the hobby in the 1970's have had propellers up front. The model is fast and can be slowed down quite a bit for some easy flying. Landing with full flaps was a little rough since I bounced it but the new landing gear took the punishment with no damage. I used an admiral 4000 40c and set the timer for 2 1/2 minutes. Landed and checked the battery and still had 65% left in the tank, so it looks like I can extend my flight time. This jet is rock solid in the air and a joy to fly. Looking forward to many more flights as I learn to master this edf and move on to my next jet.
    I still love my warbirds (FW spitfire, FW190 and Bearcat, ME109 etc) but flying the Hawk brings another level to the hobby for me. Great job Motion RC.

    Leave a comment:


  • Richrfl
    replied
    Tristar, I ended up crashing my Hawk after a good landing (big pilot error after landing). Anyway, I bought a new one, and I found that I was not able to use the gear upgrade, which was an outstanding solution to the steering problem. The part to be blamed is the nose strut. I was expecting to have the steering problem again, but to my surprise, I did not. With the original and ugly wire gear, the steering works incredible well. Just for the sake of confirming, replace the strut for the original wire gear in the nose wheel, and see what happens. It is obvious that the strut has some design and manufacturing problem, as the tolerances are way out of mechanical standards and that causes the nose weel to move sideways, front/back, and even rotating at its own pleasure.
    Good luck.

    Leave a comment:


  • TriStar
    replied
    Originally posted by Richrfl View Post
    Hi people. After a while sitting in my hangar, I started to fly the Bae Red Hawk 70mm T1. I am having a lot of problems with the steering, and I would like some on to give me some clue on what's wrong with it. Running in the tarmac runway, at low or medium speed, everything works just fine, but when going closer to take-off speed, I have no control on the steering. Kind of the plane drives like a crazy squirrel. I do the take-off run at low rate in the steering, which is set with 32% expo, 10% throw. One thing that y noticed is that the nose wheel has (what I think) too much free movement. Therefore, the question is, if this is normal, or I have some issue either with the pin or the hub of the retract. Help, please!
    I’m bringing up this post from a year ago, because I have the same problem. While I’m certainly not the best RC pilot, I have been flying for nearly 10 years, operating numerous taildragger aircraft that I somehow manage to keep straight. This is my second edf, the first being a beat up old Habu, that I can keep straight on our dirt runway. As in the post quoted, the nose gear (upgraded strut) has a lot of play, both rotating left and right, and the whole strut wobbling loose in the retract unit. I don’t use a flight controller. Any help would be appreciated. It’s downright embarrassing when I takeoff, so much so that my Hawk is in danger of becoming a static model.



    Leave a comment:


  • GBLynden
    replied
    Originally posted by Whiskywhisky View Post
    Hi from Germany,

    some day’s ago I bought the Hawk. Several times in this board people talk about operating on a grass field and how to prevent FOD through the cheater holes.

    Because our field is grass only I have made some parts for 3d-printing. I can’t compare if there is a difference when you use these parts or not because I didn’t fly without them.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	E7755640-D6AD-4221-A8C9-6511484C68A8.jpeg
Views:	1005
Size:	33.7 KB
ID:	273525

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4592286
    Great work!

    Leave a comment:


  • Whiskywhisky
    replied
    Originally posted by Gremlin View Post
    Hope someone finds this useful.

    Happy Flying.
    Hi, I printed and intalled it before the maiden flight and I think it is very useful. But I glued the part in without removing the belly pan, was no problem.

    thx for sharing the stl-file

    regards, Wolfgang

    Leave a comment:


  • Gremlin
    replied
    Apologies if this has been previously covered but I just thought I'd share a little mod in case it hasn't and is useful to someone. Front leg support. I'm operating off grass and I found that the front nose oleo was getting pushed back even on mormal landings, so I designed up and installed a nose wheel support (similar to ones available for other front wheel edf jets). Link to the STL file is at the bottom of this post.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	hawk_1.JPG
Views:	1001
Size:	115.5 KB
ID:	276815
    Remove the front plastic belly pan. There should not be this much glue in yours, I suspect. The first owner of mine got a bit too happy with the foam tac. Glue in the support brace.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	hawk_2.JPG
Views:	869
Size:	47.8 KB
ID:	276816
    Glue the belly pan back in place and your done.

    STL file link


    Hope someone finds this useful.

    Happy Flying.

    Leave a comment:


  • Randy H
    replied
    Hello I have just gotten the Hawk and I am preparing for the maiden, this is my first edf model. I have only flown prop war birds in both electric and nitro engines for many years. After reading the majority of posts and looking at the maiden flights it looks like most of you are using flaps for take off. I fly off of a 400 foot paved runway here in AZ and was wondering if you all would suggest flaps for take off or not. Thanks in advance or the feed back.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X