Stopping now... Really, I seemed to not make a lot of progress on my list of things to do, but when it got too stressful, I switched to cosmetic stuff on the fuselage. I don't need holes for battery switches or retract air lines or charge jacks. I realized they will all be internal now that I have a huge hatch! Go figure... So, glass cloth, styrene strips, Bondo putty and thin CA, and we are on the way to being invisible when I sand and prime them in the AM. (After coffee at 0600!!) Anyway, thanks again and good night. I tried to upload pics, but keep getting an error. So one pic for now and more when the sun comes up...
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1/10th Scale Westcraft B-17G Electric Conversion
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HW, Just saw your 9/17 post. Thinking of you. Much like you, I took care of my Mom for several years until her passing in January of 2013. It was a promise I made to her everytime I borrowed 20 bucks for gas or some such thing. LOL. Tolstoy wrote, "The two most powerful warriors are patience and time." You, too, are a warrior, my friend. Enjoy the 30th Anniversary and be a bit proud of what you've accomplished in such a short time. Best to you and yours, LBI solemnly swear to "over-celebrate" the smallest of victories.~Lucky B*st*rd~
You'll never be good at something unless you're willing to suck at it first.~Anonymous~
AMA#116446
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Originally posted by Elbee View PostHW, Just saw your 9/17 post. Thinking of you. Much like you, I took care of my Mom for several years until her passing in January of 2013. It was a promise I made to her everytime I borrowed 20 bucks for gas or some such thing. LOL. Tolstoy wrote, "The two most powerful warriors are patience and time." You, too, are a warrior, my friend. Enjoy the 30th Anniversary and be a bit proud of what you've accomplished in such a short time. Best to you and yours, LB
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Here are the pics from last night. B-17 body work to fix the holes from the switches and unneeded hatch... Just a bunch of steps to filling these holes up. I will post some pics after sanding this morning and I am about to spray the first coat of primer and see how well these are filled in... No sanding done in these pics...
12 Photos
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OK... Stacking the ESC's in pairs in the inboard nacelles is not going to work...:(I have to take a break and reset, but having both port ESC's experience an overheating situation, (or starboard) and losing both motors on one side due to the overheating is a non-starter.... Spin, spin, snap, and in she goes... I have four (4) batteries, four (4) motors and four (4) ESC's. Each its own system in theory. The length of the leads from the battery to the ESC was an issue. I shortened them as much as possible and added the CC cap packs to remedy any inductive "snap" that may damage the ESC itself. Now I have to locate one ESC in each nacelle and hope for the best. If I lose one outboard ESC due to a little longer lead, that is much better than losing both motors on one side due to the ESC's hitting the over-temp cut off.... The inboard ESC stack is just too tight and not enough airflow, even with the ducting... So.... Time for a beer... I should have caught this earlier, but the computer doesn't tell tales... The CC software says just a little more and we are way too hot!!! Running more bench tests to be sure. I also want to add some additional air flow from the air compressor to simulate the ram air for forward flight....:Confused::Straight-Face::Straight-Face:
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Originally posted by rifleman_btx View PostI just had a thought, would it be possible to run your inboard motor escs on the motor block then have the outboard inside the nacelle? That could keep the heat of the escs from building on eachother, plus keep the leads how you intended them. Have the firewall work as a heat break.
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The packs are too big for the nacelles. (Admiral 5000mAh 6s 50C). Even though this is a big bird (120" WS), it could only hold 10 oz Sullivan oval fuel tanks, siliconed into each nacelle.... LOL No easy answers. But I will get it worked out!!! Thanks for thinking it thru with me Bro!!
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Not stressing on the time... I am doing it right and making sure everything is sound for the test flight(s), then rivets and paint!! Also am going to contact the guy in the UK for some 3D printed cockpit and bombardier compartment pieces... Couldn't do it to start with due to time frames and budget concerns... Better to have 4 motors than a cool cockpit!! Ha!!
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That is the way I had them. Stacked vertically with air below and above each one. Screwed the platforms together so I could access the lower ESC if needed... Just not enough airflow out of the nacelle. Both of the ESC's along with the motor generated a lot of hot, dead air. And not enough space between the ESC's. The retract and both CC cap packs being in their too, made it crowded, fast!!! I could just Velcro them to the wing!!! LOL Maybe not.....:Silly:
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Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View PostThis is how HobbyKing has them, don’t know how feasible it would be for yours. :Confused:
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Originally posted by Hardway View Post
Thanks Boots....I have the Hobby King 17. It just won't work with this wing. It is foam core and one of the main spars is only a few inches from the LE and it would structurally compromise the wing... I think one ESC per nacelle with the CC cap packs will work out. After running the "Outer" ESC and checking it with Castle software, there is little to no Ripple (Snap) shown at all throttle settings. I may take the motor/esc combo with the same extension and same battery and prop and fly it in the CZ Cub and then see what the log tells me!! That keeps the B-17 safe in case the worst happens!!! :Cool:Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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