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Eflite Carbon z T28 repaint
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I just RIP them off.
I never care about decal removal , because I use Minwax and foam filler coating to cover up any imperfections.
Some guys use ice rubbed on to take the decals off, seams to work. Give that a try.
Another T28 is in for a new paint job this one will not take as long because I know what I'm doing this time. Acetone is used to remove the RED. Keep it away from plastic.
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super Viper
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I tried a little wet sanding on one of my Archers last night with good results. I had never done that on a foam model before and was worried, but 2000 grit wet worked great! I really enjoyed the tips in your video and looking forward to putting them to use in the future. Going to try the acetone to remove red on aircraft that I want white. Got some bleed through on the last project I did.
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If you don't want to remove the RED JUST use a primer to cover before painting, it will work I did it on the Blue Angels, but not on my next one tho.BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super Viper
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Wow! What a nice fix and repaint!
And taking one step further with the gun pods.
I'm painting my second T28 now and I hope I get it to come out better than my first one. I have to take my time and do it right.
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super Viper
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Originally posted by t33jetman View PostWow! What a nice fix and repaint!
And taking one step further with the gun pods.
I'm painting my second T28 now and I hope I get it to come out better than my first one. I have to take my time and do it right.
Thanks Rifleman
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"SImple paint booth" ............I like it :Cool: A couple of box fans and some furnace filters.............. pretty ingenious;)Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Yeah, I like the paint booth idea!
On my E-Flite Cherokee, I used ice cubes to remove the factory decals and it worked great. Cleaned the surface and painted Minwax Polyacrylic over the foam. Let it sit over night and when I picked it up the next morning, my fingers took the Minwax off! I had to sand all the Minwax off the plane. I realized that the factory red paint doesn't adhere very well either, so I removed that with acetone. Once I had bare foam, I scuffed the surface and hit it with Krylon Foam primer. Let that sit for 48 hours and then hit it with Rust Oleum 2X flat grey primer. Next will be the top coat and wet sanding. I would be delighted if I could get my Cherokee to look a quarter as good as that T-28!
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Originally posted by BRGT350 View PostYeah, I like the paint booth idea!
On my E-Flite Cherokee, I used ice cubes to remove the factory decals and it worked great. Cleaned the surface and painted Minwax Polyacrylic over the foam. Let it sit over night and when I picked it up the next morning, my fingers took the Minwax off! I had to sand all the Minwax off the plane. I realized that the factory red paint doesn't adhere very well either, so I removed that with acetone. Once I had bare foam, I scuffed the surface and hit it with Krylon Foam primer. Let that sit for 48 hours and then hit it with Rust Oleum 2X flat grey primer. Next will be the top coat and wet sanding. I would be delighted if I could get my Cherokee to look a quarter as good as that T-28!
I'm not sure what Minwax you used because I use Minwax polyurethane and it dries in less than 30 minutes you can do 6 codes and just a couple of hours usually I let it dry for an hour and it's ready to go. Make sure it's the same can I show oil n the video.
If you do what you say wet sanded you are going to have a great looking airplane when you're done because you're taking your time to get a good job done.
The clear coat is the finishing touch.
Oh look my second plane is almost ready for paint.
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super Viper
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I used the Minwax Polyacrylic, which is what I have used as a top clear coat on almost all my planes. I haven't ever had it fall off with my hands before. I am thinking there was something on the factory foam that caused the issue. Possibly mold release or something similar. I also haven't had the paint on an E-Flite plane come off as easily as it did with the Cherokee. I did an Archer a few weeks ago and the red paint was very tough to remove. Problem I am going to have with wet sanding is the raised rivets on the Cherokee. I lost a number of them already. I started my first coat of gloss white last night over the grey primer and it sure makes the foam cells stand out! Going from dark grey flat primer to high gloss white is a bit of a shock.
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