I thought the idea was a little silly, but it honestly worked. I took a few ice cubes out of the freezer, placed a number of them in a tumbler with some Maker's Mark, and the rest of them in a bowl. Took an ice cube and rubbed it on the decal until it felt cool to touch. Then I lifted a little of the decal and started to pull. I concentrated rubbing the ice cube at the point where the decal was still adhered and where I will pulling it up. You could feel the adhesive get cold and break loose. I kept a constant pressure on pulling and the ice would reduce the adhesion until it lifted. Only a few marks in the foam when trying to remove a big decal. I sipped the Maker's in between decals. Took me about 20 minutes to completely remove all the decals from my Cherokee. If the decal is sticking, just keep rubbing ice on it and it will come loose. Don't force the decal as that is what pulls the foam.
Eflite Carbon z T28 repaint
Collapse
X
-
Yep, it really helps out. Best to enjoy the Maker's during the process and when taking breaks when your hand gets cold. I was very skeptical that it would actually work, but it did! I just didn't like the idea of using heat, which is what I do on automotive applications.Comment
-
I'm wondering if it was oil based and not water based. I coat mine with Minwax , let it bubble up and wipe it off, removes any mold release, repeat until there is not balling and then let it dry, afterwards, give it a nother coat. I've never had any problem with it.
Grossman56Team Gross!Comment
-
The repaint on the Cherokee is going horrible. The primer and paint bubbled up on one side of the fuselage, wouldn't adhere to a section of the canopy, and the wings were filled with divots and holes around every foam cell. Oddly, the elevator which was painted and prepped using all the same process and done at the same time looks perfect. Out of all the foam planes I have done paint work on, I have never had one come out this bad. I have been busy sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, and filling, and more sanding trying to salvage it. Any suggestions on what the clean the foam/previous layer of paint/primer before the next coat? Normally I would be using 3M Automotive Adhesive Remover if this was a car project, but not something I think would be good for foam. I don't want to remove the previous layer of paint/primer, just make sure the surface is clean before painting.
It is amazing how much difference there is between my first Cherokee and the replacement. The first one was so nice I was afraid to paint it. The surface looked uniform and nice, paint was applied nicely, and everything was masked well around the canopy. My replacement Cherokee is completely the opposite. The surface is full of dings/dents, voids around the foam, bubbled up foam in some spots, overspray on the fuselage and canopy. I didn't feel bad about painting the replacement after I got it out of the box and saw it. I don't ever recall seeing a brand new plane in this poor of shape out of the box. Even my crappy Dynam and Tower Hobbies planes looked better. Since I was repainting it, I didn't think it would be too much of an issue. I think all of those things came back to haunt me as I started to repaint it.Comment
-
This bad , acetone it all the way back down and start over.The repaint on the Cherokee is going horrible. The primer and paint bubbled up on one side of the fuselage, wouldn't adhere to a section of the canopy, and the wings were filled with divots and holes around every foam cell. Oddly, the elevator which was painted and prepped using all the same process and done at the same time looks perfect. Out of all the foam planes I have done paint work on, I have never had one come out this bad. I have been busy sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, and filling, and more sanding trying to salvage it. Any suggestions on what the clean the foam/previous layer of paint/primer before the next coat? Normally I would be using 3M Automotive Adhesive Remover if this was a car project, but not something I think would be good for foam. I don't want to remove the previous layer of paint/primer, just make sure the surface is clean before painting.
It is amazing how much difference there is between my first Cherokee and the replacement. The first one was so nice I was afraid to paint it. The surface looked uniform and nice, paint was applied nicely, and everything was masked well around the canopy. My replacement Cherokee is completely the opposite. The surface is full of dings/dents, voids around the foam, bubbled up foam in some spots, overspray on the fuselage and canopy. I didn't feel bad about painting the replacement after I got it out of the box and saw it. I don't ever recall seeing a brand new plane in this poor of shape out of the box. Even my crappy Dynam and Tower Hobbies planes looked better. Since I was repainting it, I didn't think it would be too much of an issue. I think all of those things came back to haunt me as I started to repaint it.
Yes it means more work but something is wrong, so try and save it.
I've done the same thing so I know how you feel, but I was able to save my project in the end and it was worth the extra work. Better to do it right then to rush it.
That is why I say there is no perfect way you can repeat these paint jobs . Everyone is different.
It takes me almost a month to do a really good paint job because nothing always goes right.BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
All the spots where the paint didn't adhere have been brought back to the substrate. The adhesion issue was limited to only a few spots, mostly on the plastic canopy. Remaining surfaces have been filled, sanded, filled, and then sanded again until everything feels smooth and the voids have all been filled. I fully expect the job to take a solid month to complete given the 24-48 of needed cure time. Only a small section of the plane was done at a time and I made sure the paint sat for at least 48 hours before being touched to paint the next section. So one half of the fuselage was one with the top coat followed by 48 hours of cure time and then the plane was flipped to paint the opposite side. I never allowed the plane to sit on the previously painted section for more than the time it took to paint the opposite side. It cured sitting on the landing gear or an unpainted section.
This bad , acetone it all the way back down and start over.
Yes it means more work but something is wrong, so try and save it.
I've done the same thing so I know how you feel, but I was able to save my project in the end and it was worth the extra work. Better to do it right then to rush it.
That is why I say there is no perfect way you can repeat these paint jobs . Everyone is different.
It takes me almost a month to do a really good paint job because nothing always goes right.Comment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
I think someone wishes he was a painter. Jetman, I always look forward to seeing your handy work. You do some nice work my brotha. I'm dying to try some of that chrome paint on one of my models. I was actually considering trying it before I saw your work., (the can and cap is pretty enticing). Looks like it works out real good, can't wait to try it, thinking about doing the leading edges of my Viper Jet with that stuff. I flew on a Cessna Jet, about 2 weeks ago, and it had very shiny, polished leading edges, kind of stuck in my head. I want something that will encase the foam in a hard plastic shell to hide the foam. Haven't decided on anything yet though, don't think I want to do epoxy as that would add too much weight. Been thinking about flight metal, looks like an awfully lot of work though.
Best Regards
WoodyComment
-
Woodcock,
Flight metal is EASY, Just need lot of sharp razor blades !
My first time doing it and it turned out great. Just turn on some music and start rubbing it on and cut it. Watch the videos it went on fast after I cutout the first piece. I purchased ten feet of it just so I could practice but I didn't need it.
This was to be a quick paint job but that's out the window. I'm catching up so this might get done.
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment
-
BVM Bandit, EFlite Carbon Z T-28, EFlite Carbon Z Cub, EFlite Promethus, FW Avanti S, FW A-10 ThunderBolt, FW P-51 Mustang, EFlite Convergance, EFlite Carbon Z Cessna 150, EFlite Habu, EFlite Styker Q-F27, HSD Navy Super ViperComment

.png)




Comment