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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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I've installed the strut upgrade and Dubro wheels on my P-38. Has anyone else had an issue with the nose wheel hitting the gear door hinge at rear of the door?. It is not allowing the gear door to close completely. Is there a simple solution without sanding on the hinge?. The mains are closing properly without interference. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Thanks for the info. I found the connection was broken at the light in the wing so it is all good now!Originally posted by Cape Jets View Post
Lights.. The wing tips stay on solid. The belly 3 lights flash and the landing light only comes on when the gear is down. If you cant get the landing light to come on, check your connection on the blue box. I had the same issue on mine, but just moved to another connection on the blue box and it worked,
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Lights.. The wing tips stay on solid. The belly 3 lights flash and the landing light only comes on when the gear is down. If you cant get the landing light to come on, check your connection on the blue box. I had the same issue on mine, but just moved to another connection on the blue box and it worked,Originally posted by jseese View PostFew other questions,
Lights - Should the wing tip lights and belly lights be solid and I can't seem to get my landing light to come on, should it come on when the gear drops?
CG - Should I measure CG with the wheels up or down and right side up or inverted?
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Starting to get ready for the P-38 build. As you can see we cant do much flying with the snow on the field.
Made a y connector for the 6S conversion, got the Up-graded gear struts and Du-Bro tires to go on the struts. Found needed to shim out the Main tires about 3mm so they would not rub against
the strut. Some slight foam removal from the gear bays so the doors will close and the retracts seat all the way in the bay.
Next will modify the spinners and backing plates for the 11x7x3 props for the 6S conversion.
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Tips yes, I don’t remember exactly for the belly... I think it was in mine.
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Should all the other lights be solid?Originally posted by Evan D View PostYes. Yes the landing light should come on when the gear drop. I balance gear down but others do different. Remember the "book" CG is a starting point and to adjust it by flying. In the case of the P-38 the book CG is fairly good. For other planes I've needed to move it significantly FW F-86 and Mig-29).
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Yes. Yes the landing light should come on when the gear drop. I balance gear down but others do different. Remember the "book" CG is a starting point and to adjust it by flying. In the case of the P-38 the book CG is fairly good. For other planes I've needed to move it significantly FW F-86 and Mig-29).
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Few other questions,
Lights - Should the wing tip lights and belly lights be solid and I can't seem to get my landing light to come on, should it come on when the gear drops?
CG - Should I measure CG with the wheels up or down and right side up or inverted?
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I am going to use one battery for both motors, other than wiring up an adaptor do I need to do anything with the ESC's (like pull a wire out)? Thanks!
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Hello all,
anyone having issues with there DX8 radio just shutting off? Had had just flown an RC jet and was in the process of flying my corsair when we noticed the radio had just shut off. Battery display says 6.6 on the display and The there was no alarm the alarm supposed to go off on the battery goes below 4 V and nothing happened the radio to shut off?
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he's switching one so they go the same direction and use the same prop...
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The P-38 was the only plane in WW2 that had the counter rotating props for the stability of the air across the twin tail, you don't need to reverse and change the props to be scale, it is scale the way it is.
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Yes, switching two of the motor leads around was to go normal rotation on both motors. The counter-rotating 3 blade props are cool, but it's just easier to find a range of pitch and diameters in 2 blade normal rotation APC E props. I don't expect to really be able to notice any torque effect, as this is a pretty large wingspan relative to the size of the props. I just went with 11x7 2 blade props for now; testing with a watt meter showed those pulling just a little over the motor's rated wattage at full throttle while restrained on the ground. That will unload significantly in the air, and should be safely in the motor's operating range. Of course amperage through the speed controls is now ~30% lower than it would be on 4S.Originally posted by Cape Jets View Post
Im getting ready to order the same plane. Birthday gift from me to me😉 I fly alot of 6S jets and not looking forward to buying more batteries for the P-38. You mentioned that you changed some wires on the left motor. Was that to change rotation of the blade from clockwise to counter-clockwise (or vis versa) If both props are now spinning in same rotation don't you get the thrust pull to left? Did you go with the 11x7 3 Blade props?
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Just received my P-38! I’m not planning to rush through the build, but I am going to go ahead and get the paint job out f the way. I’ve already got the booms masked up. I’m doing Lt. Harry Sealy’s “Haleakala”, from the 459th FS (the “Twin-Tailed Dragons”) in India. For inspiration, I’ve been listening to the audio book, “The Race of Aces” by John Bruning. This is a MUST READ for everyone in this forum - if you haven’t read it already!2 Photos
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Thanks guys for your posts!.
Its the closest thing to a welcome that I have received on any of the six hobbysquawk forums that I have joined.
felt as if somehow I had offended everyone by joining and expressing my joy at owning new freewing and flightline aircraft!.
A10, B-24H/J, F7F-3, Yak-130, F4-C/D and P-38J/L. All purchased in the last year.
Total silence........
Until now.
Thank you for showing interest in my plans for my bird!.
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Already have the dubro wheels and the suspension upgrade setup and ready for install.
I've been assembling my bird as we have been communicating today.
only problem so far is one rudder horn not properly glued down. Cleaned it up and re-glued it in place.
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