Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[GliderGuy]

Google BROKEN SCREW EXTRACTOR

Several sources / types are available.

-GG

[Aros]

Thank you folks! Yes I used to have a soldering iron but it broke. I need to get a new one. It was really old. On my way to grab one today.

[Evan D]

Place the tip on the set screw and heat it for a few seconds then use a good driver to remove the set screw. The heat releases the thread lock.

A quick google search found this... Removing a stuck set screw? - RC Groups


Wait, you don't own a soldering iron?

Okay so let's say I buy a soldering iron. Next step? I assume I heat the darn thing and then what?

[MikeT]

I haven't found a set screw yet that a MPI driver won't get out. Expensive but well worth it.

Mike

[RRHandy]

Aros,

In the past I have used left hand drill bits and drilled out the screw with a bit just smaller than the screw, the heat from drilling heats up the screw and it will just back out once the bit starts to cut thru,
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10037A-...87&sr=8-6&th=1

If not than an easy out afterwards to remove any remaining.
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-...ps%2C81&sr=8-6

I then replace them with a longer grub screw or make a pocket in retract mount side and use a button head screw just long enough on both sides.

Ron.

[Aros]

Okay so let's say I buy a soldering iron. Next step? I assume I heat the darn thing and then what?

[Evan D]

Soldering iron

[Aros]

I grabbed the upgraded gear set and started replacing the stock gear...The first main when perfectly, then as life wants to do, as I was replacing the second main...

The Dreaded Stripped Grub Nut!! DOH!!!!

Try as I might, the bugger is stripped. Does anyone have a Sure Fire method to get the little bastid out?!? She looks funny with one upgraded main...(face palm).

Much thanks in advance! The one with the easiest, most simple sure fire method to free the sucker gets 10,000 Good Karma points.

[Elbee]

Got her all dialed...Ready for her maiden when the weather allows...

Aros, Whoa, she is DDG, my friend!!! Congrats, beautiful work. Best, LB

[GliderGuy]

Nice!

A few more things…..

1) Adjust the elevator so at neutral stick it is about 8 mm up. It should not be streamlined with the horizontal stabilizer
2) Double glue the elevator horn. I have had it come loose.
3) Mix about 8% of flap=Master and elevator = slave so when flaps are lowered, the elevator moves a few mm DOWN. This counters the pitch up caused when the flaps are lowered.
4) Buy the upgrade landing gear!

You can actually use the flaps as the elevator should you ever need to (frozen elevator servo or loose elevator horn). Lowering the flaps raises the nose and vice versa when the elevator servo is frozen or the elevator is free to flap (loose horn).



-GG

[Aros]

Got her all dialed...Ready for her maiden when the weather allows...

[Aros]

Yep….

1) Set the prop brake to ON. Chop power completely before touchdown. Brake ON will prevent prop damage in the event of a ground strike (which will happen).
2) Don’t get too slow on final. She needs speed or will drop like a rock as a SURPRISE gift to you.
3) 1/2 flaps on TO, full flaps on LDNG
4) Wire the batteries in parallel. You DO NOT want one prop to stop pulling = instant roll over
5) Get the new prop hubs….they have reinforcements against cracking. Otherwise remove the spinner and look CLOSELY IN BRIGHT LIGHT for any cracking. Check periodically until you get the new hubs. Throw a prop = instant roll over see photo = new style on left
6) Put some FoamTac on the prop nuts and spinner bolt. These will work loose over time if you don’t.
7) HAVE FUN!

-GG

BRILLIANT reply, thank you kind sir!

[GliderGuy]

After a much too long hiatus I am happy to say I acquired this beautiful bird again. Delivery is today...(Got it from a swap meet, brand new). Any latest tips and tricks I need to be aware of?

Yep….

1) Set the prop brake to ON. Chop power completely before touchdown. Brake ON will prevent prop damage in the event of a ground strike (which will happen).
2) Don’t get too slow on final. She needs speed or will drop like a rock as a SURPRISE gift to you.
3) 1/2 flaps on TO, full flaps on LDNG
4) Wire the batteries in parallel. You DO NOT want one prop to stop pulling = instant roll over
5) Get the new prop hubs….they have reinforcements against cracking. Otherwise remove the spinner and look CLOSELY IN BRIGHT LIGHT for any cracking. Check periodically until you get the new hubs. Throw a prop = instant roll over see photo = new style on left
6) Put some FoamTac on the prop nuts and spinner bolt. These will work loose over time if you don’t.
7) HAVE FUN!

-GG

[Aros]

After a much too long hiatus I am happy to say I acquired this beautiful bird again. Delivery is today...(Got it from a swap meet, brand new). Any latest tips and tricks I need to be aware of?

[GliderGuy]

Hi Alpha, Just an observation involving the FL P-38 landing gear, could they when fully extended be increased to 110 degrees versus the stock position of 90 degrees... I would assume that installing washers underneath the rear retract screws could replicate the P-38's scale stance, or would that place the retracted wheel outside the wheel well...?

Edit: The below assumes the upgraded struts are installed.

Hi dblmars,
It’s pretty tight in the mains wheel well. You might get a washer or two to work, but heads up….maybe not to the degree you are looking for.

Try it! Can’t hurt to experiment. Are you willing to adjust the door closure links a bit…slightly open doors…to achieve the stance you want?

One last thought. The metal on these main gear is fairly soft and often bends rearward on a less than perfect landing. This bend will cancel your added washer effect.

-GG

[dblmars]

Hi Alpha, Just an observation involving the FL P-38 landing gear, could they when fully extended be increased to 110 degrees versus the stock position of 90 degrees... I would assume that installing washers underneath the rear retract screws could replicate the P-38's scale stance, or would that place the retracted wheel outside the wheel well...?

[rifleman_btx]

No problem! I'm glad found it for myself as well

[Abwagner121]

Thanks for the info. That’ll save me lots of time trying to make them!!!

[rifleman_btx]

Here you go, this one will work. It's in the spare parts for the P38 nose strut upgrade
https://www.motionrc.com/products/fr...pin-fj30311085

[Abwagner121]

Has anyone had the strut pin break on the upgraded nose strut? If you have, did you find a replacement on the MRC website? Or did you have to make your own?